Reflections on Hiking Newfoundland's East Coast Trail

Exploring the Atlantic Coast, Wildlife, and Communities of Newfoundland in 2018

Trekking the Great Trail around the Avalon Peninsula

 
Having recently returned from Newfoundland, where we spent several weeks exploring the East Coast Trail on the Avalon Peninsula, we have been looking back through our photographs and travel journals and reflecting on all that was wonderful, occasionally challenging and interesting on the trek. We originally set out on this trek as a means to prove to potential sponsors that we could complete a long-distance hike while daily publishing blogs and photographing the journey.  We therefore chose the ECT as a means to not only achieve this goal but also as an opportunity to undertake a longer backpacking trip while preparing for our proposed journey across Canada on the Great Trail next year in 2019. Having previously walked long-distance routes in Spain, France, and Ontario, we wanted to experience something different, particularly a trail that would require us to carry our camping equipment, food, and other supplies while navigating a more rugged natural landscape.

 
Newfoundland seemed like an ideal place to do this. The East Coast Trail follows more than 300 kilometres of the Avalon Peninsula's coastline, connecting historic communities, fishing villages, lighthouses, coastal headlands, forests, and some of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in Atlantic Canada. It is also part of the larger Trans Canada Trail / Great Trail network, making it an appealing place to begin exploring the national pathway we hope to follow in the coming years.

 
Over the course of our visit, we hiked 252.1 kilometres of the East Coast Trail, although our journey did not unfold quite as we had originally planned.  Indeed, we stumbled one day into our hike after we had trekked from Portugal Cove to Bauline.   Choosing to return to St. John’s to regroup and re-plan how to proceed, we ultimately trekked from Flat Rock north of the capital south along the Avalon Peninsula to Cappahayden, following a succession of rugged coastal pathways, fishing communities, and spectacular Atlantic landscapes. Although we had initially hoped to complete the East Coast Trail in one continuous journey, changing circumstances meant that we explored these sections in stages, leaving portions of the larger trail network for another time.
 
Yet despite the challenges, or perhaps simply alongside them, we found a great deal to enjoy.
 

Along Newfoundland's Atlantic Coast

 
It is difficult to describe the extraordinary variety of landscapes encountered while hiking the East Coast Trail. Although the Atlantic Ocean was never far away, the pathways themselves led us through a remarkable combination of environments.  There were steep cliffs overlooking the open ocean, narrow trails winding through dense tuckamore forests, rocky headlands, sheltered coves, and exposed stretches of coastal heath. In places, the route crossed bogs and marshes, while elsewhere it descended toward small beaches or climbed high above the coast.

 
The trail was just as varied. Some sections were wonderfully maintained, with staircases, boardwalks, and bridges that helped us navigate the more difficult terrain. While others were far more rugged, requiring careful attention as we made our way across uneven rock, wet ground, and steep slopes.

 

One of the most memorable characteristics of the trail was the constantly changing relationship between the land, sea, and weather. Newfoundland's coastline could appear completely different from one day to the next. There were mornings when fog concealed much of the ocean, afternoons when the sun illuminated distant spits of land, and periods when strong winds swept across the exposed cliffs, leading us to keep our heads down and push on.

 
Our first attempt to begin hiking the trail, along Piccos Ridge Path, was particularly difficult. Heavy rain, powerful winds, cold temperatures, and an unseasonable and unexpected overnight snowfall made for a challenging introduction to Newfoundland's coastal hiking conditions. It was hardly the beginning we had imagined when planning the trip.
 
Fortunately, the weather was not always so uncooperative. We also enjoyed beautiful sunny days, clear views over the Atlantic, and opportunities to sit along the coastline appreciating the landscapes around us.
 
Perhaps that is part of what made the East Coast Trail so interesting. Even when following a relatively short section of the path, we never knew exactly what the next headland, cove, or change in weather might give way to.
 

Birds, Whales, and Wildlife Along the Way

 
As keen birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts, one of our greatest interests in visiting Newfoundland was the opportunity to explore the region's coastal habitats and observe species that we rarely encounter closer to home in Ontario.  In this regard, the East Coast Trail certainly did not disappoint.
 
Throughout our journey, we spent considerable time watching seabirds moving along the coastline, searching the ocean for whales, and exploring the natural environments through which the pathways passed. Even when the hiking was difficult, the possibility of encountering something interesting frequently encouraged us to stop, search through our binoculars, and look around.

 

One particular highlight was our visit to the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, an internationally important seabird breeding area situated just offshore from the Avalon Peninsula. During a boat excursion from Bay Bulls, we had the opportunity to observe Atlantic Puffins, Common Murres, Razorbills, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Gannets, and numerous other seabirds. For two birdwatchers accustomed to spending much of their time exploring forests, wetlands, and agricultural landscapes in Ontario, seeing so many seabirds gathered around the offshore islands was an extraordinary experience.

 
We were also fortunate enough to observe a Minke Whale during the excursion, adding yet another memorable wildlife encounter to our visit.  Whales would continue to provide some of our favourite moments along the trail itself. On one particularly memorable morning near Chance Bay, we heard a loud sound from the water below our campsite and discovered a Humpback Whale feeding in the cove. We spent a wonderful period watching it surface, spout, and move through the water before eventually continuing our hike.

 
Experiences like these were among the reasons we had been so eager to visit Newfoundland. Although we were following a long-distance hiking route, there was much more to enjoy than the path itself.   The forests, rocky coastlines, wildflowers, seabird colonies, and marine wildlife offered endless opportunities to explore the natural history of the region.
 

Communities, History, and Newfoundland Hospitality

 
Another wonderful aspect of our visit was the opportunity to explore the communities situated along the East Coast Trail.  From the colourful streets and busy harbour of St. John's to smaller fishing villages along the coast, we encountered places with distinctive histories and strong regional ties. The trail frequently brought us into communities where fishing boats, churches, and historic buildings reflected the region's long relationship with the sea.

 
We particularly enjoyed spending time in St. John's, exploring Signal Hill, walking the North Head Trail, and visiting Quidi Vidi. Although these locations were quite different from the more remote sections of the ECT, they offered their own combination of coastal scenery, history, and opportunities to experience Newfoundland's culture.

 

Farther south, our visit to the Colony of Avalon at Ferryland provided an opportunity to explore the archaeological remains and history of one of the earliest European settlements in North America. We also enjoyed the opportunity to spend time in communities such as Bay Bulls and Witless Bay, where we encountered welcoming residents and discovered more about the region.

 
Throughout the journey, we were also repeatedly surprised by the generosity and kindness of the people we met.  Whether it was someone offering advice about the trail ahead, sharing food, helping us make arrangements, or simply taking the time to stop and talk, these encounters added considerably to our experience. A memorable lobster boil-up, unexpected offers of assistance, and the kindness of people at the Colony of Avalon were among the experiences that made our time in Newfoundland particularly enjoyable.  We had come to explore a long-distance hiking trail, but admittedly much of what made the journey memorable happened in the communities along the way.
 

A Journey That Did Not Go Quite as Planned

 
Although our time on the East Coast Trail was immensely enjoyable, it was certainly not without its difficulties – as we have already hinted at.    We arrived with maps, the trail guidebook, equipment, and a carefully researched itinerary, hoping to hike the route in a relatively continuous journey. Instead, our experiences were altered by changing weather, trail conditions, transportation arrangements (on and off the trail), and the practical challenges of hiking over rugged terrain.

 
As a result, at times, we had to alter our plans, take additional days away from the trail, or explore sections in a different order than originally intended. Some of the northern pathways proved particularly difficult to incorporate into our journey, while other sections required considerably more time and effort than we had anticipated.  Nevertheless, we were able to explore a substantial portion of the East Coast Trail and experience many of the landscapes and sites that we had hoped to visit.

 
Interestingly, near the end of our journey, we encountered workers building new boardwalks across a wet and difficult section of trail. Having spent so much time navigating Newfoundland's rugged coastline, we could certainly appreciate the effort involved in maintaining and improving these pathways.   The experience was another reminder that the East Coast Trail is not simply a line drawn along the Atlantic coast. It is an evolving recreational pathway made possible by the dedication of the East Coast Trail Association, local communities, volunteers, and people working to preserve public access to this remarkable landscape. Whatever changes may come to the trail in future years, we are grateful to have had the opportunity to explore it.
 

Looking Back on the East Coast Trail

 
Now that we have returned home, it is difficult to choose one particular moment that best represents our time in Newfoundland. Perhaps it was standing above the Atlantic watching whales move through a sheltered cove? Seeing thousands of seabirds around the islands of Witless Bay? Exploring the historic streets of St. John's? Following a narrow pathway through coastal forests before emerging onto another extraordinary view of the ocean? Or perhaps enjoying the generosity of people who helped us along the way?
 
More likely, it was the combination of all these experiences.

 
The East Coast Trail offered us beautiful nature, wonderful wildlife encounters, interesting communities, and a chance to spend several weeks exploring a part of Canada that we had previously known very little about.  It also challenged us in ways that our earlier long-distance walks had not, and we have returned home with plenty to reconsider as we continue planning our much larger journey on the Great Trail. Those practical lessons, and what they may mean for our preparations, deserve a separate discussion.
 
For anyone interested in hiking the East Coast Trail, birdwatching along the Atlantic, discovering Newfoundland's communities, or simply following along with our experiences, we have documented the journey in a separate series of daily travel journals. These include our preparations, the individual trails we explored, the challenges we encountered, and many photographs of the landscapes, communities, birds, and wildlife we discovered along the way.
 
Read Our East Coast Trail Hiking Adventures – Newfoundland, 2018
 
We hope these journals provide a glimpse of why the East Coast Trail is such an extraordinary place to explore, whether on an extended backpacking journey or through shorter day hikes along the coastline. 

 
As for us, we are now back in Ontario, continuing our preparations for the Great Trail and looking ahead to the possibility of returning to Newfoundland next year to begin our journey across Canada at Cape Spear.  There is still a great deal of planning ahead, and our time on the East Coast Trail has certainly given us plenty to think about. But whatever challenges we may face in the months to come, we are glad to have spent part of this summer exploring Newfoundland on foot.
 
See you on the Trail!