Knowing When Not to Keep Going
“Its caution is greater than its courage.”
Seneca, Moral Letters to Lucilius, Letter 22
Roads, Highways, and Common Sense on the Trans Canada Trail
When
we first began long-distance hiking, one of the first big lessons that stayed
with us was never to quit on a bad day. It was useful advice then, and
in many ways it still is. Fatigue has a way of making temporary problems feel
permanent. Rain can make a trail seem impossible in the afternoon and almost
pleasant the following morning. Sore feet, hunger, frustration and self-doubt
can convince you that an entire journey has been a terrible mistake when what
you really need is food, sleep and another chance to look at things with fresh
eyes tomorrow. Over the years, we have relied on that idea many times. We have
kept walking through miserable weather, difficult trails, flooded sections,
long road walks and days when neither of us particularly wanted to continue.
Most of the time, persistence has carried us somewhere better.
What
I am beginning to understand in Alberta, however, is that persistence has
limits, and knowing where those limits are may be just as important as knowing
how to push through them.
The
distinction has been increasingly difficult to ignore. Earlier in the province,
while preparing to follow Highway 2Afrom Wetaskiwin toward Ponoka, an RCMP officer stopped to ask about our carts and then became visibly concerned when we explained our route. He told us
about pedestrians and cyclists who had been struck along the highway, described
the traffic, the speeds and the lack of a proper pathway, and suggested that we
find another way south. Later, after we contacted the local trail organization,
they expressed similar concerns and suggested concessions that might provide
safer alternatives. Dana Meise, the first person to hike from coast to coast to coast, offered perhaps the
clearest advice of all: if a line drawn on a map did not feel safe on the
ground, we should not allow ourselves to become trapped by the idea that
following that exact line was somehow more important than finding a reasonable
and safe way forward.
Even the TCT, as an organization, advises that their
network of trails (especially on the roadways) is “simply a guide,” not a fixed route to be blindly
followed. Even the online map advises people not to use the route. At the time, I understood what
everyone was saying, but there was still a part of me that resisted the idea.
We had set out to walk the Trans Canada Trail. The route was there on the map;
it was signed on the ground, and others had completed this same national track.
Surely following it was what we were supposed to do.
Despite
the dangers, that belief and ideal have been surprisingly difficult to shake.
Once a route is marked, planned and mentally accepted, changing it can feel
uncomfortably close to failure. We are used to solving problems and then continuing
on. If the day is long, we walk farther. If we are behind, we start earlier and
walk further still. If the trail is rough, we slow down and keep going. If we
are tired, we remind ourselves that tiredness is temporary. For years the basic
answer to most difficulties has been persistence, and persistence has usually
served us well. It is therefore strange to discover that experience does not
always make you better at enduring more or more adept at overcoming true
dangers. Sometimes experience teaches you to recognize when endurance and
stubbornness have both stopped being the appropriate response.
Today on Highway 567 brought that lesson into uncomfortable focus. The route west from Irricana
toward Airdrie looked simple enough on the map, but the reality
was a narrow, busy highway with little or no shoulder and a drop from the edge
of the pavement. My ankle was already swollen and tender, which made walking
the slope beside the road painful, but the larger problem was the traffic. As
the morning began, transports, RVs and pickup trucks began passing in an almost
continuous stream at highway speeds. At one point, a pickup passed a transport
while both were beside us, squeezing through so closely that we could feel it
brush past our elbows. Not long afterwards, another vehicle sped by while the
driver threw a glass beer bottle out the window, sending shards across the
pavement and against the front of our carts. At that point the dangers were
evident, and the question changed. We were no longer wondering whether this was an
unpleasant section of trail. We were wondering whether continuing along it made
any sense at all. We were also wondering
whether continuing to walk here was worth our lives.
For
years, part of long-distance hiking had meant convincing the mind to keep the
body moving. Today the relationship reversed. The mind was still saying that
this was the mapped route, that we had already walked thousands of difficult
kilometres, that ten kilometres of highway was not going to defeat us, and that
abandoning the marked route somehow meant we had not completed what we intended
to do. The body, common sense and the evidence immediately around us were, however, saying something else. Traffic was passing too close. Drivers had very little
room to avoid us, and some clearly didn’t want to. We had already had two
encounters that could easily have ended differently. At some point, continuing
simply because we had decided beforehand that we would continue stopped looking
like determination and began looking like stubbornness.
Ultimately, common sense (with the help of Google Maps) won out, and so we left the route of
the Trans Canada Trail. In so doing, we
left the roaring highway and immediate dangers behind and began to trek a
longer but also calmer and safer route toward the day’s destination. With that said, by every measure there was
nothing dramatic about the decision. We found an alternate road and began
working our way toward Airdrie on our own terms. Later, when another road ended
unexpectedly, we picked our way through a rough ATV track beneath utility lines
rather than backtracking through the heat. It was awkward, uneven and painful
on my ankle, but it was away from the traffic and felt far safer than the
highway we had abandoned. For perhaps the first time in a very long time,
following the journey rather than following the line on the map felt like the
more faithful choice.
I
do not think this contradicts the advice we once relied upon about never
quitting on a bad day. If anything, experience has made that lesson more acute.
There is a difference between discomfort and danger, between fatigue and
injury, between frustration and information. Rain is uncomfortable but usually
manageable. Sore muscles may simply need rest. A difficult climb may require
patience and a little more time. But a busy road that provides no safe space
for walkers, or circumstances that repeatedly produce near-fatal misses, are
not necessarily obstacles to be conquered. Sometimes they are information that
should change the plan.
Perhaps
this is one of the less obvious things that long-distance journeys teach. At
the beginning, perseverance despite the odds often feels like the great virtue.
You prove that you can continue despite difficulty. Over time, however, another
skill becomes just as important: judgment based on experience. You begin to
understand that endurance is not measured only by how much discomfort you can
tolerate or how faithfully you can adhere to a mapped itinerary. It also
depends on knowing when to stop, when to rest, when to ask for help, when to
accept that you need to change the plan and work around something genuinely
unsafe, and when to choose a different road.
That
can be difficult to admit because long-distance journeys attract a certain
mythology of toughness. We celebrate the person who keeps going, who ignores
pain, who pushes through weather and adversity and refuses to quit. There is
value in resilience, but there is also danger in confusing resilience with
inflexibility. A route does not become safer because we are committed to it. An
injury does not disappear because we are determined. A map has no awareness of
how fast the traffic is moving beside us, whether a bridge is washed out,
whether a trail has vanished, or whether today's conditions bear any resemblance
to those under which the route was originally created.
The
longer we walk, the less interested I am in proving that we can force our way
through every difficulty exactly as planned. That may be one of the more
unexpected changes of this journey. In Newfoundland, perseverance often meant
learning not to surrender to the discomfort of the moment. Here in Alberta,
more than 10,000 kilometres later, perseverance sometimes means protecting the
journey from our own determination. If we are going to keep moving toward the
Pacific, we need our bodies intact, to trust our own judgements, and have
enough humility to admit that a line on a map is only one suggestion for how to
get from where we are to where we hope to go.
At
present I am still frustrated by having to take this deviation from the Trans
Canada Trail. It has not been our first,
nor I suspect it will be our last. The
water route around Bras d’Or Lake in Cape Breton, the water route in New
Brunswick, the Path of the Paddle across the shores of Lake Superior, the Chief
Whitecap Waterway south of Saskatoon – each is an example of where we had no
trail and had to make our own way. Amid
those sections, I have also gotten tired of the critiques that we have
not trekked every spur of the national trail system or that we had to walk
around a water route rather than rent a kayak or swim the section. While there is a point to following the Trans
Canada Trail as much as possible the fact remains that there are also times
that everyone has to hike their own hike.
Plans
made in advance, trails mapped out (both online and on the ground), and our
goals all play into every decision. But
they no longer get to overrule everything else.
Experience, common sense, and the reality beneath our feet also play into every
choice.
To
that end, perhaps knowing when to keep going and knowing when not to are not
opposite lessons after all. They are two parts of the same one - pay attention
closely enough to understand what the situation is actually asking of you,
rather than responding automatically with whatever worked last time, what the
original plan was, or what others will demand
later on.
Today,
what the road was telling us was simple enough. Find another way. So we did. Perhaps that decision has been long overdue.
See
you on the trail.
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