Through the Smoke : Elkford to Sparwood

Each day on the Trans Canada Trail begins differently.  When we woke up this morning it was to find the valley shrouded in a thick blanket of smoke. The rising sun appeared among the trees as a sickly looking red disk, only managing to shed a weak and creepy orange light on valley below.  The smell of wood smoke hung strong in the air as we packed up the tent.  We were sad to leave the Municipal Campground in Elkford, which had incredibly friendly staff, gorgeous treed sites, and one of the nicest and cleanest bathrooms we found in any campground anywhere.

To our amusement, as we made our way from the campground to the trail head we spotted two male elk sleeping on the front lawns of a row of modern condos.  At first we thought they were lawn ornaments until one of them moved. 

Across the street in a small park was a mother mule deer and two very new looking fawns.  They were unsteady on their legs, and their black outlined ears were absolutely gigantic! Obviously the appearance of large wildlife in town is a regular occurrence, as none of the locals paid the slightest attention.

The path out of Elkford was clearly designed for adventurous mountain bikers.  The dirt path switch backed up a steep forested hill, then wove back down towards the Elk River, before switch backing up another steep hill.  I can fully appreciate how this is a wonderful path for locals and visitors on day rides, but for thru-hikers with heavy packs and a lot of kilometres to cover, the steep ups and downs made for a slow and tiring way to begin the day, especially given the extremely thick smoke.

Eventually we made it up onto a ridge, and a cleared area gave us fantastic views down over the valley and the town below us.  The sun was turning the sky a hazy golden yellow behind the mountains, and long shafts of light stretched across the sky.  From below we could hear the sounds of traffic, horns honking, and people's voices.

From there we followed a grassy track on a long descent down the edge of the mountainside.  Very tall, mature old conifers provided some shade.  Below us the Elk River meandered in the densely forested valley, but it was mostly hidden from view among the trees.

About an hour into the hike we came to a natural sulphur spring. The smell of rotten eggs already filled the air when we were about 500 m away, and it grew increasingly stronger as we approached the spring.  Even before Elkford was developed into a town, the spring was locally recognized for its health benefits and healing properties for afflictions such as rheumatism.  A 7 ft long hollow log remains at the spring, and legend has it that a man named Wildcat Charlie used the spring to treat his rheumatism so frequently that it became known as "Wildcat Charlie's Bathtub."

There was a picnic table beside the improbable, glowing green waters of the pool, and we took a break there.  The sulphur waters flowed out of the pond in a turquoise stream that babbled and sang as it made its way out into a grassy meadow.  As we sat there, the sky put on quite a show, with the sun sending strong shafts of light through a hole in the clouds.  Pools of liquid light appeared on the grassy plain below, creating an almost magical looking scene.

Before we left I stuck my hands into the water of the spring, and while it wasn't exactly warm, it wasn't too cold either.  Perhaps the health benefits are worth it, but I'm not certain how much I would enjoy being immersed in a pool with such a strong egg smell.

After the sulphur spring, the forested track skirted around the edge of a hillside with the river far below us at the bottom of a ravine.  In places the track was covered in wet mud, and we spotted the tracks of elk, bears, horses, and canines in the soft trail surface.  We were also surrounded by birdsong, with Boreal Chickadees and Red-breasted Nuthatches lending their voices to the still, smoky morning, and a trio of Canada Jays curiously following us down the trail.

Suddenly the path turned and we found ourselves in a massive clear cut.  The thin gravel footpath wound through an open, grassy area that was strewn with huge, partially charred stumps.  The twisted black shapes contrasted strongly with the bleached blond colour of the dry grasses.  Through the vast open landscape occasional seed trees had been left standing like lone sentinels, towering over the devastation below.  In the background the craggy peaks of a logged mountain rose up, mostly hidden by the thick white smoke. It towered above us, looking more like a silent, ephemeral ghost than a solid, immovable mountain.

Across the forested river valley, layer upon layer of hills and mountains disappeared into the distance.  They looked blue under the strange orange sun, and it reminded us of how you might image the misty mountains in JRR Tolkien's 'Hobbit'.

Our route snaked back and forth through this clear-cut for about ten kilometres, following dirt footpaths and wider ATV tracks. We spotted a few Black-billed Magpies flying among the trees, and an American Kestrel perched high atop a dead snag.

As we made our way through the open, grassy clear cut it was evident that the season had shifted into fall. The grasses were golden and dry, rustling in the slight breeze. The leaves of wild rose bushes and other plants were turning red, thistles and asters were blooming purple, and the songs of crickets and grasshoppers filled the air.  The warm fall colours made a beautiful contrast against the soft blue of the mountains beyond.  However, it was an eerie feeling to walk through the hot, dry landscape that was littered by burnt stumps with such a strong smell of smoke in the air.

Eventually we followed a grassy track through a stand of regenerating conifers.  While the mountain views around us were hidden, our attention wandered to the smaller things.  One of our more interesting finds was a Shamrock Orbweaver spider crossing the path.  Its enormous, hairy, bright orange body looked like a colourful fall mushroom, or a berry of some kind.  When we stopped to take a look, the spider seemed quite shy, hiding under a tuft of grass and playing dead.

Eventually the path became quite muddy, and in places quite uneven where horses and herds of cattle had passed through, the cows frequently leaving more than just their footprints.  We also spotted more bear paw prints, some of which looked very fresh.  The ruts and prints made us very grateful that it hadn't rained in a while, and that we weren't ankle deep in mud.

Shortly after this we emerged onto Sulphur Springs Rd, which was a wide gravel Forest Service Rd.  Two Red-tailed Hawks were soaring high overhead, being mobbed and chased by a murder of American Crows.  Their raucous calls filled the air as they gave chase, eventually subsiding as they settled back onto the tips of the treetops.

We had only just stepped onto the wide gravel road when the driver of a double-long loaded dump truck pulled slowly up along side and asked if we had any bear spray. He indicated that he had been seeing a grizzly bear about 2 km up the road from us during his trips all morning.  We thanked him for the kind warning and continued on, Sean carrying his camera with the birding and wildlife lens on it in his arms, and me carrying the bear spray.  We never saw the grizzly, which left us with mixed feelings of disappointment and mild relief.

We followed the treed corridor for a few more kilometres, until we again emerged into a logged area.  Huge piles of slash and ripped up tree roots lined one side of the road. Beyond them rose the heavily logged slopes of a huge mountain, which also looked like a ghost in the thick smoke.

As we approached the end of Sulphur Spring Rd we began to see more people.  A group of hunters had set up camp along the edge of the river.  As we passed their group of tents a large dog erupted out of the encampment, barking fiercely and chasing after us. He turned out to be all bark and no bite, and his owners very helpfully came running out to retrieve him.

We passed a gate that to our surprise indicated we had been walking through an area with active traplines, where bowhunting was permitted but not shooting.  A small parking lot a few hundred meters later had a few cars in it that belonged to fly fisherman.  They were standing spaced out along the rocky shores of the clear, fast-flowing Elk River.  Apparently people travel from all over the world to fish the famous Elk River. 

As we crossed the bridge over the fast flowing waterway we got one of our first views of the Line Creek Mine.  This mine produces and processes about 4 million tonnes of "clean" coal annually, and Teck Resources estimates there is enough coal at the site to keep it in production for another 12 years. Although not as large as the Fording River Operation, it was nonetheless very impressive.

As we approached the end of Sulphur Springs Rd our view of the mine was of a huge, grassy berm that had been terraced into enormous steps.  It could have been a vineyard created for the gods.  Behind the grassy terracing the rocky slopes of Mount Lyne and Mount Salter rose up in the haze.

We passed a tiny back country campground with a couple sites on the edge of the Elk River, and a kiosk for the Elk Valley Trail, before turning onto Line Creek Mine Rd.  This paved and curving road was extremely busy with very fast moving pickup trucks going to and from the mine.  Perhaps we were walking it during a shift change, but it didn't feel like a safe place to be walking.

We were supposed to follow this paved road out to the highway, walk down it for several kilometres, and then backtrack to a quieter road.  However, we noticed on the satellite images that there was another pathway leading through the Big Ranch Wildlife Property, and we decided to check it out. 

We diverted off the busy road, crossed a rather thistle-filled grassy area, and then picked up a beautiful grassy track through a spruce forest.  A sign indicated that all non-motorized vehicle users were welcome, so we continued on, hoping our gamble would pay off.

The next few kilometres passed pleasantly enough as we followed an undulating track up and down through a large forested area.  We crossed several hydro corridors, down which we caught glimpses of the Line Creek Mine Operation, and we descended to a small stream and then climbed back up the other side of the valley.  It was peaceful and largely uneventful, and we were glad for the respite from the strangely warm orange sunlight.

When we emerged at the other end of the property we came to a parking lot with a stone bench and a kiosk with information on the Big Ranch Wildlife Property.  This 325 ha property is owned by the Nature Trust of BC, and it was purchased in 1990 with help from several other groups in order to provide winter forage and cover for wildlife.  Up to 300 elk and an unknown number of white-tailed and mule deer overwinter here.  Excitingly, it also provides habitat for moose, black bear, mountain lions, and grizzly bears, as well as a variety of songbirds and birds of prey.

We took a break at the rest area, taking a few minutes to chat with a couple who were out for a morning bicycle ride.  As we sat and ate our granola bars a dog from the adjacent farm came and checked us out.

After a short stop we continued on, following the Lower Elk Valley Rd to Sparwood for the next 9 km.  This winding, two lane paved road followed the valley, providing beautiful scenery along the way.  The valley floor was covered in lush green pastures and ranch land, and dotted with small farms, out buildings, and red barns.  Behind this pastoral scene a range of mountains towered, their layered slopes receding into the distance like in a painting.

Partway down the road we passed a small enclosure of trees that was heavily fenced off. Signs at the gate indicated it was a tree preserve and that shooting ground squirrels inside its boundaries was prohibited.  We hadn't realized it was necessary to establish a ground squirrel reserve.

As we progressed we began to pass more homes and wooden cabins.  We passed a crystal clear pond, the surrounding trees and grasses reflected in its surface like a mirror.  After that we were accompanied by a small clear stream running in the ditch beside the road.  This stretch had a lot of colourful hand-painted signs with encouraging messages, which we quite enjoyed reading.  One example was "When life gives you a rainy day, play in the puddles."

For the last few kilometres heading into Sparwood the Elk Valley Trail deviated off the road and wove through old fields and pastures.  The trail ran between the railway tracks and the road, but it was a very pleasant walk.  As we made our along the edge of mowed fields that were dotted with conifers and small stands of trees we were again surrounded by the dry, warm, colours of fall.  Grasshoppers scattered as we walked through the tall grasses with a dry rustling sound.

We were intrigued to notice a high abundance of freshly dug holes of various sizes along the footpath.  Some looked large enough to house badgers, while other looked like they might be inhabited by ground squirrels.  Sadly we saw no evidence of any occupants.

We did see other signs of wildlife however.  There were many horse, elk, and deer droppings along the path, as well as foot prints in the muddy areas. We also spotted bear tracks, and rather alarmingly we passed a large pool of very fresh, still glistening, bright red blood in the middle of the path. There were large entrails and organs scattered throughout the nearby bushes, and a trail of blood led off into the trees.  Whatever met its end, and whomever dragged its remains away were both very large. 

As we wandered the footpath through this beautiful natural area we could see the terraced hills of the Elkview Coal Mine outside of Sparwood rising up above us.  The huge stepped hillside was covered in yellowish grass, and a few brave conifers were beginning to colonize the otherwise bare steps.  As we approached the town we could see two active smoke stacks releasing plumes of white smoke into the sky above us, and we could see the brown clouds of coal dust hanging like smudges in the sky above the mine.

As we approached the town we passed several mobile home parks, and a growing number of independent RVs and trailer parks.  It struck us that this is another aspect of towns that are based on natural resources extraction.  Most forestry and mining operations in Canada only have a limited life span, and when the resources have been exhausted they move on.  This leads to a nomadic or semi-nomadic lifestyle for many of the people who give their lives to these industries.  They have no choice but to follow the jobs, between seasons and between years.

The smoke was still thick as we drew nearer to Sparwood under the hot, orange afternoon sun.  For the final push into town we crossed a field and then climbed up into a neighbourhood on a forested footpath.  It was another beautiful trail that snaked through stands of very tall, mature spruce, trembling aspen, and cottonwoods that was designed for locals to enjoy.  At the tail end of a long and pretty strenuous hike we likely didn't appreciate it as much as it deserved.

We crossed the Elk River on a long metal foot bridge that provided gorgeous views down the waterway.  On one side we could see the covered bridge used by the railway tracks, and beyond it the active smoke stacks of the processing plant for the mine.  Someone had spray painted R.I.P. in white paint on the top of the railway bridge.  Somehow it felt like an epitaph from the future for the industries we all rely so heavily on today.

When we reached Sparwood we came to the Visitor Information Centre outside of which sits theTerex Titan.  The Titan 33-19 is the world's largest tandem axle truck, designed to haul loads of up to 350 tonnes. It is 6.88 m tall, or 17.07 m tall when it's box is raised.  Standing beside it, I only came about half way up its enormous wheels!

The Titan 33-19 was invented by General Motors in 1968, and six years later the first prototype as built.  The vehicle was designed to facilitate a new way of mining, which no longer required men to burrow underground in small, dangerous tunnels and chip away at coal seams by hand. Instead, large machines were used to remove layers of dirt and rock from around the seams, creating open pit mines.  Large trucks could be used to remove the dirt and rock, and to haul away the coal.  This was the largest of the lot!

The information centre also featured interpretive plaques explaining the recent history of Sparwood.  Two coal mining communities, Michael and Natal, were founded in the area in the early 1900's.  However, these two communities were actively dismantled in an urban renewal program in the 1960's.  The official reason was health concerns over coal dust from the nearby mines, but angry residents suspected it was to create a fitting eastern gateway to "Beautiful British Columbia."

The three communities in the Elk Valley, Elkwood, Sparwood, and Fernie are now known as part of BC's playground, providing access to 38 different outdoor recreational activities.  Among these are hiking, mountain biking, skiing, snowmobiling, golf, motorized recreation, whitewater sports, swimming, camping, horseback riding, wildlife viewing, bird watching, and world class fly fishing on the famous Elk River. 

After checking out the Visitor's Centre we walked into Tim Hortons for a break and an iced tea.  Two loaded touring bicycles were parked outside, and we soon started chatting with the couple who owned them.  They had walked the US portion of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) last year, and had returned to cycle the Great Divide Trail (the Canadian portion of the CDT) this fall.  Apparently when they left Banff and crossed the Elk Pass it was completely socked in with thick smoke, and they missed the views.  After a day of sore throats and headaches from the thick smoke, it was a timely reminder that things could always be worse. Once again we ended the day appreciating the many blessings we've experienced in this trail.

See you on the trail!

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