Coming Full Circle : Onto Vancouver Island

Nov. 15th, 2022

“So much time spent in slow motion,

Don’t need to worry about this commotion

You and I need to catch this light before it’s gone…

 So much time spent moving quickly

Don’t need to worry we’ll get there you’ll see

You and I we need to catch this light before it’s gone!

…Open your Eyes,

Cause we’re almost there!”

                                                                                   Opus Orange ft Lauren Hillman – Almost There 

After a short but wonderful reunion with family, this morning we once again headed back onto the Trans Canada Trail.  During the previous three seasons of our #Hike4Birds we've never walked this late into the fall, but the relatively mild climate on the west coast is allowing us to make the final push to Victoria, BC without winter gear.  So, today we finally left mainland Canada behind us, boarding a ferry that took us first back to Horseshoe Bay and then another onward to Vancouver Island, where we will be completing the final section of the Trans Canada Trail between Cape Spear, Newfoundland on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and Point Zero on the shoreline of the Pacific Coast.  When we took our first tentative steps along the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland, on the rocky edge of an island out in the Atlantic Ocean, it was impossible to imagine that after 550 days on the trail we would actually reach the far side of the continent, and take our final steps on another island out in the Pacific Ocean.

When we set out from the Sunshine Coast this morning we looked out across the Salish Sea to Nanaimo, which was our destination for the night.  Although Nanaimo was only about 35 km away as the crow flies, it took us most of the day to get there.  After a 40 minute drive along the Sunshine Coast, we caught the 10:50 am ferry back to Horseshoe Bay. One of our favourite aspects of the waiting area for foot passengers at the Langdale ferry terminal is a large poster providing information on marine mammals and promoting Citizen Science.

The sign marks Langdale as a stop on the BC Whale Trail, which consists of a series of shore-based locations along the Pacific Coast where it is likely to spot one of the 25 species of whales and dolphins, 5 species of seals and sea lions, or two species of otters that inhabit the waters off British Columbia.  The Whale Trail is a non-profit organization based in Seattle, Washington, which is dedicated to inspiring appreciation and stewardship of orcas, other marine mammals, and the marine environment.  In partnership with the Whale Trail, Fisheries and Oceans Canada, and Ocean Wise, BC Ferries is encouraging people to become Citizen Scientists by reporting their sightings of cetaceans (whales, dolphins, and porpoises) to the Cetacean Sightings Network, either online or using the WhaleReport app.  Little did we know that our travels today were going to yield exciting new observations!

Keeping our eyes open for any marine mammals, we headed out onto the deck of the ferry as it pulled away from the Langdale terminal, heading for Horseshoe Bay.  Each time we make this trip the stunning scenery looks a little different.  A glowing orange sunrise had given way to a clear, sunny day.  As the ferry nosed its way through the calm turquoise waters between the steeply forested slopes of Gambier, Keats, and Bowen Islands, the snow covered tips of the mountains stood out in minute detail, looking three-dimensional and close.  Leaving the shoreline behind, we spotted the rounded head of a harbour seal lolling in the shallow waters off a sandy cove, and a Great Blue Heron fished from a rock at the water's edge.  On the far side of the 45 minute crossing we approached Horseshoe Bay, enjoying a panoramic view down the mountainous coastline, seeing the route we'd recently walked from a different perspective.  With the beautiful weather we couldn't help feeling that we should be hiking, not wasting such a gorgeous day, which is now a rarity so late in the season, by sitting still during 58 km of ferry crossings.

There was a two hour layover between our arrival in Horseshoe Bay and the departure of the next ferry to Nanaimo.  We wandered back down to the village, sat at a cafe enjoying a coffee and working on the blog and editing pictures for a while, before slowly making our way back up to the ferry terminal.  As we boarded the large ferry, which would take us across the Salish Sea to Nanaimo, we were pleased to see that most of the children on board were dressed for the outdoors, excited to be heading out on an adventure, and many were headed for the outside decks to see if they could spot any marine mammals.  As the ferry headed out of port we were treated to a panoramic view of the city of Vancouver, a line of huge ocean liners moored in front of a skyline where skyscrapers stood like a tall, grey, geometric forest.  From this angle the glass, metal, and concrete habitat humans have created for themselves looked strange and alien.

The mountain views and cityscape were fascinating, but when we rounded Bowen Island and headed out into the Strait of Georgia we were in for a real treat!  An announcement by the BC ferry staff alerted everyone on board to the presence of a pod of humpback whales off the starboard side of the ship.  Although the icy wind was so strong on the deck of the ferry that it was difficult to remain upright, we were delighted to watch as people flocked out into the cold to watch the show.  And what a show it was! Water spouts appeared on both sides of the ferry, and people began pointing and exclaiming as they spotted fins breaking the surface all around us.  Suddenly, a whale broke the surface in a full and exuberant breach.  The enormous animal flew through the air in a graceful arch before crashing onto the ocean's surface with a huge splash! What a treat!  For about 20 minutes we all enjoyed watching the pod of whales, moving from one side of the ferry to the other, exclaiming excitedly whenever a fin or a tale was sighted.

As the ferry chugged steadily across the straight to the island it entered a dense bank of grey fog that hung beneath a thick layer of dark clouds.  The crossing from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay, Nanaimo took one hour and 40 minutes, and we watched the scenery in amazement as the smaller islands began to emerge from the mist, their steep, rocky, forested slopes appearing in layers.  Finally, as the skies began to clear, we saw the jagged, snow covered mountains of Vancouver Island rising up ahead of us.

Our ferry was heading for the largest island along the Pacific Coast of both North and South America.  At 456 km in length, nearly 100 km at its widest point, and 32,100 km sq in area, it is more than five times larger than Prince Edward Island, and three times the size of Cape Breton Island.  Its centre is occupied by a huge mountain range, which is ringed by lush, coastal rainforest.  The human population of Vancouver Island is mostly concentrated in a series of towns stretched along the coast, including Victoria, the provincial capital and our ultimate destination seven days from now.

Eventually the ferry nosed into Departure Bay, slipping past protected rocky shorelines lined with log cabins, modern homes with huge windows facing the spectacular mountain views, smaller cottages, and regular homes.  As we disembarked at a modern ferry terminal whose glass walkways, ramps, and waiting areas somehow resembled those of an airport, we realized we had reached another milestone on this journey – including our time on the Salish Sea Marine Trail which we have paddled over the last two decades we have now just completed more than 13,500 km on the Trans Canada Trail!

Although more than eight months of more or less continuous hiking, photo documentation, blogging, Citizen Science presentations, planning logistics, re-adjusting plans for natural disasters and trail closures, paperwork, and ongoing battles over social media have left us feeling exhausted and worn thin, we are looking forward to the final week of this east-west journey. Against all odds, the weather forecast for the next week looks promising, with little rain, no snow, and daytime temperatures above the freezing mark.  We made the decision to leave most of our gear at my parent's house, hoping that with less weight we can more easily cover the longer distances that are necessary.  The biggest unknown is that the trail is broken in several places, leading out into the middle of nowhere and then stopping where bridges over canyons or rivers are missing or a route through private land hasn't yet been negotiated.  Using satellite imagery we've come up with a plan to address each of these breaks, but we have no idea if it is realistic or not. As it is now the third week of November, we are well aware that we are now racing the weather.  Only time will tell how this turns out, but as we stepped off the ferry we were cautiously optimistic, and excited to make the final push.

Although Vancouver Island is 456 km long, the Trans Canada Trail only runs along its southwest coast from Nanaimo to Victoria, a distance of around 111 km if you were driving on the Trans Canada Highway, and around twice that if you are walking on the trail.  Nanaimo's nickname used to be the 'Hub City,' due to its central location on the island, and the fact that its streets radiate out from the shoreline like the spokes of a wagon wheel.  It is now known as the 'Harbour City.'  Its official name comes from the Anglicized spelling of Snuneymuxw, the name of the Indigenous Peoples who inhabited the area prior to European settlement.  Ancestors of the Snuneymuxw First Nation occupied the area around Nanaimo on the east-central portion of Vancouver Island, as well as regions along the Fraser River for more than 5,000 years prior to European contact. 

In 1850, the Hudson's Bay Company established a trading post at the spot, and in 1851 coal discoveries in the area led to regional prosperity, growth of the city, and development of the historical downtown core.  It was originally called Colvile Town, after the HBC governor Andrew Colvile.  A few years later the HBC built the Nanaimo Bastion, an octagonal wooden tower which still exists today, and which was created to defend their settlement and local coal interests.  As the town developed, its main industry was coal mining, although this was eventually supplanted by forestry.  When Nanaimo was incorporated in 1874 it was the third oldest city in British Columbia and the second largest city on Vancouver Island, a distinction it still holds today.

We followed the crowd of people departing the ferry terminal out into the parking lot, where we picked up a narrow paved trail that skirted the waterfront.  Although we were following the edge of Vancouver Island, the trail was bordered by a relatively narrow waterway that separated the main island from the forested slopes of Saysutchun Newcastle Island, which is now a Marine Provincial Park.  It is only accessible by foot passenger ferry or boat, and it features a family-friendly campground and a network of hiking trails.  There is evidence of at least two Salish Villages on the island, which were deserted before the discovery of coal in the area in 1849.  In 1931 the Canadian Pacific Steamship Company purchased the island and opened a resort, and subsequently the island became a very popular spot for weekend outings.  Its popularity decreased considerably during WWII.  We would have loved to camp on the island tonight, but unfortunately the campground is closed for the season, so we contented ourselves with looking at its quiet, peaceful, forested slopes from across the water.

It was a damp, overcast afternoon, but the fresh, cool, salty sea air that hung above the quiet harbour felt refreshing and invigorating.  We only had 7 km to walk in order to reach our accommodations for the night, and we thoroughly enjoyed them.  The trail took us along the quiet waterway, passed small marinas filled with neat rows of moored sailboats, several floatplanes, and the usual outbuildings and dry docks that accompany working marinas.  Wooden boardwalks took us across the front of several small pubs and seafood restaurants tucked in among the boats on the waterfront, but they were mostly empty at that hour of the afternoon during the off season.  Almost immediately we noticed a difference in the island culture.  The people we passed were more laid back than the tourists and business people we'd met in Vancouver, and many of them passed with a friendly smile or stopped to ask about our hike and give us words of encouragement.

After passing the Nanaimo Yacht Club Marina we came to a more developed section of the Harbourfront Waterway.  Its beginning was marked by a large red cedar sculpture of a Giant Pacific Octopus which was created in 2018 by Laura and Michael Timmermans.  The art exhibit was installed to get people excited about the amazing animals that inhabit our oceans, and to increase awareness of their importance to our heritage, economy, and environment.  The waters off Nanaimo are said to offer some of the best diving in the world, and one of the creatures that can be observed from the intertidal zone down to 2,000 m is the Giant Pacific Octopus.  This cephalopod can grow up to 9.8 m (32 ft) across and 270 kg (595 lbs), although males are more commonly around 40 kg (88 lbs) and females are 25 k (55 lbs).  They eat crabs, clams, scallops, and mussels, and can change colour and texture to blend in with their surroundings or produce a cloud of 'ink' to confuse predators.  The artwork certainly did its job in getting us excited about these amazing creatures!

We continued down the Queen Elizabeth II walkway, which was a beautiful, two-lane, paved cycling path complete with benches and curving metal street lights.  A strip of trees and greenery covered the steep slope that separated us from a roadway, and on the other side of the narrow linear park the tide was high in the calm, sheltered bay.  Ahead we periodically caught glimpses of the towers and buildings of downtown Nanaimo through the trees.  A pair of Common Mergansers floated silently on the mirror-like waters.  Just before we reached a small pedestrian footbridge we came to another outdoor art exhibit.  This one was a 6 ft tall soaring Bald Eagle that had been painted in vibrant blues, yellows, and greens depicting the sky, mountains, and sea. We were delighted to see this beautiful representation of birds in the artwork along this trail.

We crossed the Millstone River on the Lions Great Bridge which connects the Harbourside Walkway to Maffeo Sutton Park.  A nearby plaque revealed that this was a community based project, led by members of the Lions Club under the leadership of Al Brett.  Much of the $500,000 needed to build the bridge was raised by selling memorial bricks to the public, businesses, and corporations in Nanaimo, and much of the work was done by volunteers.  It was inspiring to see the amazing results of so much cooperation, dedication, and hard work, and we were very grateful for the small bridge which brought us into Maffeo Sutton Park.  It is projects like this that make inspiring active engagement, especially in our youth, so important for the future of our communities.

Maffeo Sutton Park is a large green space that overlooks the harbour, and it is used to host community events year-around.  In addition to dedicated walking and cycling trails, it features an Inclusive Playground for children, the Lions Pavilion covered stage, Spirit Square, and many public art exhibits, including a large and iconic Nanaimo sign.  We made our way around the well-landscaped park, passing the dock for the ferry to Saysutshun Newcastle Island along the way.  Just past the long wooden pier was a large bronze statue to Frank James Ney (1918 - 1992).  In addition to being mayor of Nanaimo for twenty-one years and serving a term in the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia, he was also known for his outgoing personality, his habit of dressing up like a pirate when attending civic events, and his central role in initiating bathtub races across the Georgia Strait from Nanaimo to Vancouver.  I had never previously considered a bathtub to be a vehicle, let alone a fast moving one, so I was intrigued to learn of the existence of bathtub races.  Not only that, but Nanaimo is still home of the Great International World Championship Bathtub Races, which are hosted by the Loyal Nanaimo Bathtub Society every summer.  During this event "tubbers" hope to win a world famous race in the "bathtub racing capital of the world."

Just beyond the statue to the intriguing figure of Frank Neys was the Sway' A' Lana lagoon.  The name comes from Sxwayum, which is the traditional Snuneymuxw name for the Millstone River, which was named after a Common Goldeneye.  The lagoon was an artificial pond which was connected to the ocean only during high tides.  The shallow tidal pools were surrounded by raised walkways, and standing above the glassy surface we could see almost perfect reflections of the trees on the far side, the dark conifers contrasting with the brilliant reds of the maples on either side.

In the late afternoon, as the light began to fade and the temperature dropped, we made our way from Maffeo Park to the motel where we are spending tonight.  We took showers, caught up on blogging and logistics, and went back out to find something to eat.  As we walked back along the waterfront in the dark, a thick bank of fog rolled in, creating golden halos around the street lights above the trail, softening the edges of buildings and trees, and creating an air of mystery.  It was a truly beautiful evening, and it reminded us quiet strongly of the beginning of this epic coast to coast walk.

In 2019, we began this hike on another island out in the Atlantic Ocean which completely stole our hearts.  As we walked the East Coast Trail, on the shores of Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula, we often watched banks of fog rolling across the water just offshore, much like they did today off Vancouver Island.  A ferry ride brought us from Port-aux-Basque, Newfoundland to mainland Canada, docking in Sydney, Nova Scotia just as a ferry brought us from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo today.  When we set out four years ago we were joined by members of Nature Newfoundland, and if we are lucky, perhaps we will finish in Victoria with members of the Victoria Natural History Society.  We've noticed something special about 'island people' as we've crossed this country, and it already feels like a little bit of that straightforward, laid-back friendliness of Newfoundlanders is present here on Vancouver Island as well.  In so many ways, today felt like we are now bringing this adventure full circle.

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online