“Expect the
Unexpected, and you will not be disappointed.”
Professor Melvin, UWO Political Science
When
a Line on a Map Becomes an Itinerary and then a Journey
When
we began researching, figuring out and planning to hike across the nation on
the
Trans Canada Trail, we assumed
that one of our greatest challenges would be covering the enormous distance
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. We expected difficult trails,
challenging weather, unfamiliar situations, long days of walking, and the
physical demands of travelling thousands of kilometres with everything we
needed carried on our backs. What we had not fully appreciated was how
difficult it would be to translate a line on a national trail map into a
practical, day-by-day walking itinerary.

At
first, the task appeared reasonably straightforward.
We knew where we intended to begin, at Cape Spear, Newfoundland,
and where we hoped to initially finish, on the Pacific coast of British
Columbia. Between those two points stretched a connected national pathway that
passed through every province, linking communities, wove indirectly across landscapes,
followed historic routes, meandered recreational trails, and explored some of
Canada's most remarkable natural environments.
A distance of approximately 5700km that one could cover in a car would lead us anywhere from 12,000- 14,000 km in hiking.
We
had already spent considerable time walking established long-distance routes,
including the
Camino Francés in
Spain, the
Via Podiensis / GR65 in
France, the
Bruce Trail in Ontario,
and the
East Coast Trail in
Newfoundland. Each had presented its own logistical difficulties, but they had
also provided us with a general understanding of what planning a long-distance
hike involved. We were accustomed to dealing with set stages, estimating daily
distances, identifying accommodation and resupply options, and adjusting our
plans to account for terrain, weather, and the limits of our own abilities.
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It
seemed reasonable to apply the same principles to the Trans Canada Trail. Yet, what we gradually discovered was that the Great Trail did not lend itself to
the kind of planning we had become familiar with elsewhere and that hikers
apply to other long-distance trails. Although the trail was connected on a map,
it was not a single, purpose-built hiking route with established daily stages,
designated overnight stopping points, or a consistent infrastructure intended
to support people walking across the country.
That distinction would become increasingly important as our journey
progressed.
When we finally reached Victoria, British Columbia, in late 2022, we had walked approximately14,000 kilometres over 556 trail days, spread across four years. Our original expectations about the time required had proven considerably optimistic. Extreme
weather, a global pandemic (COVID-19), changing circumstances, variable route
conditions, and the practical realities of travelling through an enormous
country had all contributed to a trek that took far longer than we initially
anticipated. Eventually we were able to continue north, reaching Tuktoyaktuk on
the Arctic Ocean in September 2025. By then, our coast-to-coast-to-coast
undertaking had involved almost 18,000 kilometres of walking and 759 trail days
over six years of hiking spread across seven calendar years.
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Looking
back, one of the most important lessons was that planning the Trans Canada
Trail was never simply a matter of dividing the total distance by the number of
kilometres we could walk each day. It
simply is not a route that can be divided into predictable stages, with
guaranteed accommodations, water sources, and resupply opportunities each
night. In this way (as in many other
ways) the Trans Canada Trail is both distinct and very different from any other
long-distance trail in the world.
Why
Doesn't the Trans Canada Trail Have Regular Hiking Stages?
One
of the most common questions about walking a long-distance trail concerns the
number of stages required to complete it. People naturally want to know how far
they should walk each day, where those days should begin and end, and how many
nights they will need along the way. On many established hiking routes, these
questions have relatively familiar answers.
The
Camino Francés, for example, passes
through a network of communities accustomed to supporting pilgrims. Although
everyone is free to choose their own daily distances, guidebooks (John Brierley
and Wise Pilgrim) commonly divide the journey into recognizable stages, ending
in towns with albergues, restaurants, shops, water and other services. Walkers
can shorten or extend their days depending on their circumstances, but there is
usually a reasonably well-established framework to help them plan.
The
Bruce Trail, East Coast Trail, and Fundy Footpath offer different models. They
vary considerably in terrain, difficulty, accessibility, and available
services, but each follows an identifiable walking corridor supported by
route-specific information. Their guidebooks, maps, and associated planning
resources help walkers understand where they are going and what facilities or
access points may be available. Stages, access
points, and camp sites are clearly identified and relatively dependable along
each of these trails.
These
differences are not minor variations within a single hiking route. They
influence how a person can travel, what equipment they require, which services
are available, and whether a particular route is suitable for walking at all. Other factors also come into play, including
varying physical ability, distances any one person can traverse, topography,
weather, exhaustion, and the unexpected.
As a result, there is no consistent system of daily walking stages across
the country on the Trans Canada Trail.
Indeed, I am not sure there ever could be a set itinerary that could be
relied upon coast to coast to coast that daily led trail users to
accommodations, food, and water – the system is simply too varied for such
expectations.
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A
community might provide an obvious stopping place after twenty kilometres,
while the next practical overnight location may require travelling considerably
farther – such is the scale of the country and the TCT. In another region,
accommodation might be available in several nearby towns, but reaching those
towns could require leaving the official mapped route. Elsewhere, a trail
section might provide excellent recreational access for local residents while
offering little of the infrastructure needed by someone travelling through on
foot for several consecutive days. As
such, the daily stages familiar from conventional hiking guides cannot simply
be imposed on this kind of network.
In
many ways these realities are central to understanding the Trans Canada Trail
as a whole.
How
Many Kilometres Should You Walk Each Day?
Before
setting out, it is natural to calculate
how long a journey might take by estimating an average daily walking distance.
If someone expects to cover twenty-five kilometres per day, they can divide the
anticipated route length by that figure and arrive at an approximate number of
walking days. Heavens knows that is
where we began – assuming that we would cover 35 km a day, we could finish the trail in 3 years! While this is a useful starting
point, it is not a realistic schedule.
Even
experienced walkers do not cover the same distance every day. A comfortable 25
kilometres on a relatively level rail trail may bear little resemblance to the
same distance on a difficult mountain route, an uneven forest path, or a busy
highway shoulder. Heat, rain, wind, injuries, equipment problems, and
accumulated fatigue all affect progress.
More importantly, on the Trans Canada Trail, the distance someone walks
is not determined solely by their physical capabilities. It is also influenced
by where they can safely stop each day.
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A
hiker may be perfectly comfortable covering 25 km but discover that the next
suitable camping area or accommodation offering is still another 15 or 25 km away.
Alternatively, a person capable of walking 40 kilometres might have to stop
much earlier because there is nowhere practical to stay farther along the
route. Sometimes the sensible decision
is to shorten a day. Sometimes it is necessary to travel farther than intended.
Occasionally, neither option is particularly appealing. Remember Canada developed along paddling
routes, according to train schedules, and the distances people in cars like to
travel each day – not according to the needs of people on foot.
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During
our journey, we repeatedly encountered situations in which the practical
question was not how far we wanted to walk, but where we could finish the day
without creating additional difficulties for ourselves tonight, tomorrow, and
next week. All of which soon become a
source of mental exhaustion that can overwhelm you. This becomes especially important when
considering the weight of supplies being carried. A hiker with enough food for
several days has different options from someone depending on reaching a store
(I would not say a grocery store – get used to gas stations and variety shops)
by evening. Someone carrying camping equipment may have more flexibility than a
person relying entirely on commercial accommodation (though coast to coast I am
not sure this is a viable expectation), but carrying a tent does not mean that
camping is permitted – even if it is responsibly possible - wherever they
happen to finish walking.
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These
circumstances are interconnected. The day's distance affects the amount of food
and water required, while the supplies being carried influence how far it is
practical to travel. A fixed daily
distance, stage, and accommodations cannot adequately account for all of these
relationships. As noted – the Trans
Canada Trail is not the Bruce Trail,
Wainwright’s
Coast to Coast, or the Camino Frances.
Its length, the structure of the nation, each individual’s abilities,
and circumstances en route undermine any attempt to make it so.
Where
Can You Find Water Along the Trans Canada Trail?
Water
is another question that appears simple until it is considered across thousands
of kilometres of changing geography. On
some established hiking routes, guidebooks identify springs, taps, streams,
public facilities, or communities where walkers can refill their bottles. The
availability of this information makes it easier to estimate how much water to
carry between known sources.
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Along
the Trans Canada Trail, water availability varies enormously. On the East Coast Trail and T’Railway Trail
in Newfoundland, users can regularly expect plentiful sources of water to be
able to reach and purify. In Nova Scotia, many of the streams are tidal and have saltwater, increasingly making the challenge
considerable. In PEI – much like the
prairie provinces of Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta – there are
agricultural realities to consider, including pesticides and farm runoff. Though in PEI, communities are often much
closer than in central Canada. In
Quebec, there are sections like the Petit Temis and P’Train du Nord that have
regular picnic tables and water taps – because recreation in the province is
well established and very well designed.
In Ontario, the situation varies from trail section to section and
between communities – but here the TCT is typically moving between towns or
large cities, and so water can easily be purchased when it cannot be found and
filtered. In Alberta, one must contend
with the realities of locating potable water amid oil production in the north,
agriculture, ranching and property ownership, and navigating roadways and
cities (though the last of these helps considerably). In BC, the availability of water once again
varies based on location and trail – mountain lakes help, but can be offset by
forestry and mining activities. Finally, in the north – while water can be plentiful – remember that you are on a
highway, which means that sources can be polluted or unreachable depending on
the topography.
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All
of which is a long way of saying that the situation is more complex than we often
think while planning. A walker passing
through an urban area may encounter numerous places to obtain drinking water. A
rural road section might offer few publicly accessible facilities, despite
passing farms and private properties. In remote landscapes, lakes and streams
may be present, but their existence does not automatically mean that the water
is safe to drink or reliably accessible. Remember too that conditions also
change throughout the year. A source available during spring runoff may be
reduced or absent later in the summer. Last year’s low snowpack in turn
influences this year’s water supply. Waterways
can be affected by agricultural activities, development, wildlife, or other
sources of contamination. Treatment is advised and likely necessary – but even
a suitable treatment system cannot compensate for a source that has dried up or
cannot be reached.
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For
these reasons, water planning cannot be reduced to a single national map
showing dependable refilling points at regular intervals. Where possible, hikers should identify
potential sources, determine whether those sources are accessible, assess their
reliability, and carry an appropriate reserve. We spend entire evenings on Google Maps
looking for marshes and blue lines to see if we could get to them the next day
– as we walked (especially in places like Newfoundland and Northern Canada) we
refilled when we found a good source and hoped a great deal in between. In populated areas, this may involve
researching public facilities and available services. In more remote regions,
it requires a different level of preparation and an understanding that
information obtained before departure may not accurately describe conditions at
the time of travel.
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During
our journey, water planning was therefore part of our daily decision-making
rather than something that could be settled once and applied uniformly across
the entire country. Knowing where water
might be found was important. Knowing how far we would have to travel if it was
unavailable was equally important.
And as anyone who has read about our hike into Emerson, Manitoba can attest – we didn’t always get it right. Even in big cities and heavily populated
centres like Kitchener-Waterloo in Ontario, things can get tough – an extreme
heat wave in this region during our second year ultimately put me in hospital
with heat stroke and dehydration for a few days.
Where
Do You Stay at the End of Each Stage?
Perhaps
the most misleading assumption about walking the Trans Canada Trail is that
every day will end somewhere a hiker can reasonably spend the night. On routes with established overnight
infrastructure, it is often possible to identify a sequence of campgrounds,
hostels, shelters, or communities with accommodations. These facilities often may still require
advance reservations, and availability can vary, but they also provide a
framework for dividing a longer journey into manageable sections. By comparison, the Trans Canada Trail does
not have a similar nationwide system.
Once again, the structure of the country has evolved along paddling
routes, train stations, and truck stops as well as the communities nearby –
not around those intending to travel by foot.
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Some
sections pass through communities with hotels, motels, campgrounds, and other
accommodation options. Others continue through areas where commercial lodging
is limited or absent. Even when a town appears close to the route, reaching
accommodation may require a lot of additional walking, and the location of a
motel on a map does not guarantee that it will have an available room or allow
you to stay.
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Camping
introduces another set of complications.
The Trans Canada Trail designation does not itself provide permission to
camp along a route. Newfoundland allows wild camping beyond people’s private
property, but beyond it, local bylaws, private property, protected areas, and the
regulations governing individual trail sections all affect where overnight
camping is allowed. Even Crown land can be hard to access while on trail. Wild camping is not generally something a
walker can assume is permitted simply because a trail passes through a forest
or undeveloped landscape. A person
travelling with a tent must therefore research camping opportunities (opportunities
being the operative word) just as someone staying indoors must research
accommodation. We encountered many
situations where our daily walking plans were shaped by the availability of
somewhere to sleep. Sometimes this meant adjusting our distance, arranging a
night in a motel, or accepting that a particular section would require a
different logistical approach.
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These
were not unusual exceptions to an otherwise predictable itinerary. They were
part of travelling across a national pathway that connects existing routes
without necessarily providing continuous long-distance hiking infrastructure. Our
published provincial itineraries record generally where we reached each day
during our journey, but it does not guarantee that the same possibilities would
be available or appropriate for another walker.
Food,
Resupply, and the Distance Between Communities
Finding
food creates similar challenges, particularly as the route moves away from
densely populated regions. In some parts
of Canada, shops and restaurants are encountered frequently enough that
carrying several days of provisions is unnecessary (Quebec to Montreal, Peterborough through the GTA to Barrie, and
the Greater Vancouver Area). Elsewhere, communities may be separated by
considerable distances, grocery stores may have limited hours or limited stock,
and reaching the next reliable resupply point may require careful planning or
accepting what is available – truck stops, gas stations, variety stores all
become familiar places very quickly.
Eating is less about variety and choice and more about calorie intake.
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This
becomes particularly significant in the prairies and northern Canada, where the
distance between services can make resupply one of the central considerations
determining the pace of a journey. A walker cannot always decide to stop after 20
or 25 kilometres simply because that is their preferred daily distance. They
must also consider how much food remains, how many days are required to reach
the next settlement, and what options exist if weather, terrain, or other
circumstances delay progress.
Carrying
additional provisions provides a margin of safety, but it also increases pack
weight. A heavier pack may reduce the distance someone can comfortably cover,
affecting how long those provisions need to last. The relationship between distance, supplies,
and daily progress is therefore circular rather than straightforward.
This
was one of the ways our understanding of the Trans Canada Trail changed as we
moved across the country. Planning was not simply about identifying the next
destination. It was about understanding the consequences of failing to reach
that destination when expected or failing to find what was hoped for when you
arrived. All of which sometimes meant
reconsidering the itinerary moving forward altogether.
A
Trail That Continues to Change
There
is another reason why planning the Trans Canada Trail is unusually complicated:
the national pathway is in many ways not a permanently fixed route. Trail sections can be affected by floods,
wildfires, erosion, infrastructure damage, land-use decisions, and changes in
access. Bridges may close, roads may become unsuitable, and routes may be
relocated or removed from the network. Improvements
in one region may occur while difficult conditions develop elsewhere. The result is that you have to be
prepared to adapt en route – often when there are few good options. A landowner’s dispute with the East Coast
Trail led us to have to reroute around the affected section. A bridge being replaced in New Brunswick can
add 50-60 km of road walking to reroute to the other side of the span. A landowner who plows the Trans Canada Trail
to add more land to his field and sets up an electric fence to actualize that
claim adds 25 km of extra hiking to a day.
And a flood the year before you arrived can remove 68 km of the Kettle
Valley Rail Trail, leading you to have to walk on the side of the Crowsnest
Highway for 140 km during a widespread forest fire. Each of these exact and unexpected situations
arose during our hike.
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This
does not mean that planning is impossible or that maps and guidebooks have no
value. Quite the opposite. Good planning is essential. What it does mean, however, is that information
should be understood in the context of when it was collected and what it actually
describes. A route followed in 2019 or
2025 may not be identical to the route that is available today. A patch of
forest that we camped in or accommodation available in 2021 may no longer
operate. A section that was passable during one season may be closed or
difficult to travel during another.
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Our
daily journals and itineraries document the conditions we encountered at
particular times. They provide a record of where we travelled, where we
stopped, and the decisions we made along the way. They are undoubtedly useful
but certainly cannot serve as a permanent guarantee that the same journey can
be repeated under identical circumstances.
Even our newer published provincial planning guides are intended to help
prospective walkers understand the geography, route characteristics, and
practical questions they should investigate before departure. They are most
useful when considered alongside those firsthand accounts and current
information from trail managers, communities, and service providers. The purpose is not to eliminate uncertainty
for those planning a long-distance trek or cycling journey on the Trans Canada
Trail. They are meant to help people understand where uncertainty exists and
how they might prepare for it.
Planning
for the Trail That Actually Exists
Looking
back at our preparations in 2018, we can see that some of our original assumptions
were shaped by the long-distance trails we had already walked. We understood that the Trans Canada Trail was
much longer than the Camino Francés or the Bruce Trail. We expected that
Canada's geography and climate would present significant challenges. What took
longer to appreciate was that the difference was not simply one of distance.
The
Trans Canada Trail is a connected national network, but it does not divide
naturally into a predictable series of walking days supported by consistent
accommodation, food, water, and camping infrastructure. The very things that
make it remarkable - its extraordinary geographical reach, its diversity of
landscapes, its connections between communities, and its incorporation of
existing recreational routes -- also make it difficult to describe through a
conventional stage-by-stage hiking guide.
That
does not make the questions prospective walkers ask unreasonable. How far
should I walk each day? Where can I find drinking water? Can I camp along the
trail? Will there be a motel at the end of each stage? How many days will it
take to cross a province? These are
precisely the questions we were asking before we began. But the answers depend on much more than
finding the correct distance on a map. They require consideration of personal
ability, route conditions, seasonal weather, access to services, available
accommodation, resupply intervals, and the consequences of plans changing
unexpectedly.
For
some sections, it may be possible to prepare a relatively detailed daily
itinerary. For others, planning may be better approached around the distance
between communities, access points, reliable supplies, and suitable overnight
options. In remote regions, the ability to manage delays and carry sufficient
provisions may matter far more than maintaining a preferred daily average.
A
useful plan must reflect those differences rather than conceal them.
Perhaps
the greatest difficulty in planning a long-distance journey along the Trans
Canada Trail is not finding individual pieces of information, but bringing them
together into a reliable picture of the journey ahead. A map may identify the
route, a community website may list accommodation, and a local trail
organization may provide details about conditions or access. Yet none of these
sources necessarily establishes whether a person can walk between two points in
a reasonable number of days, obtain sufficient food and water, and find
somewhere legal and practical to spend each night. These questions are
interconnected, and an answer to one may change the answer to another. Across
thousands of kilometres of independently managed trails, roads, and waterways,
creating a complete, current, and coordinated itinerary becomes an undertaking
almost as complicated as the journey itself.
The
Difference Between Having an Itinerary and Being Prepared
After
years of walking across Canada, we have come to appreciate that a detailed
itinerary and a well-prepared hiker are not necessarily the same thing. An
itinerary tells someone what they hope will happen. Preparation involves
considering what they will do when circumstances differ from those
expectations. We began our journey with
plans, maps, research, and estimates of how long travelling across the country
would take. We continued to plan throughout the undertaking, often times in
considerable detail. Yet we also learned that flexibility and adaptability were
not a substitute for planning; they were an essential part of it.
Some
days went more or less as expected. Others required us to reconsider our
distances, supplies, camping options, and even the route ahead. Over time,
making these adjustments became part of the ordinary work of travelling on
foot.
It
would have been convenient to follow a guide that divided the entire Trans
Canada Trail into fixed daily stages, complete with dependable drinking water,
resupply opportunities, and somewhere to sleep at the end of every day. But that would have described a different
kind of trail from the one we encountered and a different kind of route than
the Trans Canada Trail at its core is in reality.
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The
Trans Canada Trail can be an extraordinary way to experience Canada, revealing
a country far more varied, connected, and complicated than the familiar images
of mountains, forests, and wilderness might suggest. Its thousands of
kilometres bring walkers and cyclists into contact not only with remarkable
natural landscapes but also with working communities, agricultural regions,
industrial areas, highways, and the everyday geography of the country. It is
without a doubt the journey of a lifetime to undertake. But - Travelling through those places
requires a willingness to adapt to the conditions and circumstances actually
encountered, rather than assuming they will conform to an itinerary prepared
months earlier or by someone else. Perhaps that is the most important understanding
for anyone considering a long-distance walk along the national pathway.
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The
challenge is not simply determining how many kilometres you can walk in a day.
It is understanding where those kilometres will take you, what you will need
before reaching the next suitable stopping place, and what you will do if the
journey does not go as planned. As well as understanding the ties between
yesterday’s decisions, today’s possibilities, and the challenges that lie ahead
tomorrow, which are influenced by both.
That
is why planning a Trans Canada Trail hike can be so difficult – it is not a
simple long-distance route like the Bruce Trail or Camino Frances. It is also why thoughtful preparation,
reliable information, and the ability to make decisions along the way matter
far more than following a fixed schedule.
See
you on the trail!
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