Crown Jewels and Concessions : Reflecting on the TCT in Saskatchewan

Considerations about the Trans Canada Trail in Saskatchewan 

Hiking Canada's Great Trail in the Prairies

Over 1,450 km of the Trans Canada Trail (formerly the Great Trail) weave through the wide-open landscapes of Saskatchewan. In the fall of 2021, we spent two months walking its rail trails, footpaths, and dusty range roads, discovering that the prairie province is far more diverse and dramatic than its reputation suggests.

 

Indeed, far from being a flyover region, Saskatchewan was unexpectedly beautiful, diverse and is overlooked by too many. 

 

We marvelled at sand dunes in Good Spirit Lake Provincial Park, took more ferries than in any other province, visited historic prairie grain elevators, followed in the footsteps of the Red River Resistance on the Trails of 1885, and watched in awe as tens of thousands of Snow Geese filled the skies during fall migration. Birding, history, and cultural encounters blended seamlessly as we trekked westward, proving once again that the Trans Canada Trail is as much about people and stories as it is about landscapes.

 

“We move through this world on paths laid down long before we are born.”

Robert Moor

 

Delayed Posting

To begin, let us first note that ideally this reflection on the Trans Canada Trail in Saskatchewan should have been written and published when we finished trekking across the province’s 1400 km.  At the time, however, a combination of sheer exhaustion and the natural course of life pushed our publication of it until sometime later.  What follows now is a combination of notes we took during our trek, which have been refined with the benefit of hindsight after hiking a few more provinces.

 

Beyond this, we would also like to ask for readers to remember that at the time we arrived into Saskatchewan after over a month of trekking some 1300 km across Manitoba amid 40-degree temperatures, and smoke from forest fires two provinces away. By the time we drew our third year on the Trans Canada Trail to a close – and after a number of delays - we would have trekked more than 3000 km on the Great Trail across three provinces in Canada during 2021. 

The TCT in the Prairies 

By the time we crossed from Manitoba into Saskatchewan, the trail - and our understanding of it - had begun to shift. The landscapes opened wider, the distances grew longer, and the balance between wilderness and infrastructure became more complex.  Indeed, our first steps in Saskatchewan initially felt very much like simply a steady continuation of the same gravel roads and open skies that we had followed throughout Manitoba.

 

While we would soon come to see Saskatchewan as having a culture and feel entirely unique from those of Manitoba, our perception of these prairie provinces had been shaped by a recent experience.

Only a few days before crossing into Saskatchewan, we stayed in a Manitoba border town where we discovered a Trans Canada Trail pavilion which had been stripped of its map and donor appreciation plaques.  There was a photocopied piece of paper, inferring that the money spent on its maintenance was better dedicated to managing the trail system in the region, and so the pavilion had been dismantled – except for its frame.  To get to this community, we had ventured almost 1000 km along mostly dusty concessions and roadways, and we knew that before the year’s end, in crossing Saskatchewan, we would trek more than another 1400 km along mostly dusty concessions and roadways.

 

While standing there, it seemed to us that the frame of this former pavilion was a metaphor for the TCT in the prairies – a number of wonderful trails that more Canadians should trek, separated by vast distances and joined only by remote back roads and highways.   We had come to see the Trans Canada Trail in the prairies as a number of Crown Jewels separated by dusty gravel concessions with nowhere to camp, no water, and few supplies. 

 

Put another way, we were finding it a little difficult to be enthusiastic about the prospect of trekking more of the same. 

Reorientation of Expectations                                                         

However, it turned out that our expectations couldn’t have been more wrong. Yes, there was a lot of road walking, but the trails of Saskatchewan revealed that the Prairies are anything but “flat and boring” or merely a “fly-over region” to be crossed as quickly as possible. In truth, they are among the most underappreciated and essential landscapes in understanding the Canadian experience.

 

While it’s true that the trend of spectacular trail sections separated by long stretches of backroads continued throughout Saskatchewan, we were constantly surprised by the province’s crown jewels — its parks, river valleys, and rail trails — each one offering a glimpse into the quiet majesty of prairie life. From the ever-changing palette of colours across the fields to the abundance of wildlife and the unexpected rise and fall of the northern hills, Saskatchewan continually challenged us to re-examine our assumptions and opened our eyes to new forms of beauty.

 

Here, the Trans Canada Trail gives hikers and cyclists the opportunity to journey through native grasslands, trace the curves of dramatic river valleys, explore remarkable provincial parks, and meet some of the friendliest communities in the country. In short, the trails of Saskatchewan reveal what Canadians can experience if they take the time to explore, look, listen and foster a deeper connection to the land. 

The Great Trail in Saskatchewan

For those unfamiliar with the route the Trans Canada Trail takes across Saskatchewan, it weaves (in our case from east to west), through a landscape far more varied than most imagine. Entering the province at Duck Mountain Provincial Park, continuing westward to Yorkton before turning south through Melville, tracing along the picturesque Qu’Appelle Valley into Regina. From there, the route climbs north again, detouring on a spur down to Moose Jaw before continuing toward Saskatoon, Duck Lake, and North Battleford, eventually reaching St. Walburg and crossing into Alberta near Lake Tulliby. 

Duck Mountain Provincial Park 

Entering Saskatchewan, we began our journey in what was perhaps one of the loveliest regions we’d yet encountered at the outset of any province - Duck Mountain Provincial Park, situated just a few steps across the Manitoba border. Its trails were clear, well-marked, and a joy to follow, offering nearly fifteen kilometres of shaded green space that provided a welcome break from the endless roads we had grown accustomed to. The campground was spotless, and the park staff were some of the kindest people we met, eager to share their local knowledge and enthusiasm.

 

Duck Mountain set the tone for our experience of the Trans Canada Trail in Saskatchewan’s provincial parks  - a standard of beauty, hospitality, and care that we would come to rely upon as we ventured through Good Spirit Lake, Buffalo Pound, Danielson, and Davidson parks. In each of these places, we were greeted with warmth, curiosity, and genuine interest in our journey. The staff always seemed to know exactly where the Great Trail passed through and offered helpful advice on nearby birding hotspots and wildlife viewing areas, deepening our connection to the landscapes we walked through. Saskatchewan Parks are stunning oasis with beautiful natural areas and developed hiking as well as cross-country ski routes.  

Good Spirit Lake Provincial Park

A 114 km of road walking separated Duck Mountain PP from Good Spirit Lake Provincial Park – a distance which we covered in 3 days of hard trekking under a hot sun.

 

In Good Spirit Lake Provincial Park, the Great Trail meanders for 37.4 km of pathways around the lake and through the entire park, taking hikers down scenic paths through woodlands, along boardwalks, and onto sandy beach fronts.  Beyond the TCT, Good Spirit has more than 38 km of trails for nature lovers and birders to enjoy.  For us, there is no denying that the well-maintained trails of Saskatchewan’s Good Spirit Lake Provincial Park were among our favourites in the province as well as the prairies. 

Qu’Appelle Valley         

Beyond our second provincial park in Saskatchewan, the TCT returned to the dusty gravel rural routes that we were familiar with and wove along them for 155 km from the southern edge of Good Spirit Lake through the welcoming towns of Yorkton and Melville, eventually bringing us to the edge of the stunning Qu’Appelle Valley. 

 

Having never had the opportunity to explore the Qu’Appelle region, we soon realized that we were in one of the most scenic regions of the country and the most peaceful sections of the Trans Canada Trail that we have ever ventured along.

 

The route through the Qu’Appelle Valley took us past historic sites, provincial parks, beaches, nature reserves, farmland, forest, and long sections of the stunningly beautiful river valley that were like nothing we’d ever seen before.  It was one of the few sections of gravel road walking on the entire Trans Canada Trail that was absolutely amazing, and it was without doubt one of the hidden gems of Canada that we hope more people will come to explore, discover, and appreciate for themselves. 

Pathways of Regina, Wascana Trails                                  

Leaving the Qu’Appelle Valley, the national pathway remained on roads for 108 km between the towns of Fort Qu’Appelle and Regina.  This included almost 50 km of navigating roads on our own terms, as this stretch is a water and paddling route in addition to another 53 km of trekking gravel concessions from the shores of the Qu’Appelle River into the capital city. 

 

Exposed, oddly busy and not meant for hikers, much of this road section was a real challenge for us, which we covered over the course of 2 tough and very long days.  Thankfully, however, it led to one of the nicest urban pathways in the Trans Canada Trail system that we had yet to hike – Regina’s Wascana Trails.

 

There is no denying that we thoroughly enjoyed the 25-kilometre stretch of city trails in and around Regina, which not only connect neighbourhoods and green spaces throughout the city, but also take visitors through Wascana Center at the heart of the community.

 

The Wascana Trails are paved hiking and cycling routes along rivers and waterways, through Regina’s historic centre, past the University campus, the provincial legislature buildings, and around Wascana Lake, which is an amazing urban park that offers incredible opportunities to learn about nature, culture, and the environment, or to relax, have fun, and participate in a variety of festivals and outdoor sports. 

 

We were also very impressed to see that the stretch of trail around Wascana featured washrooms, ramps, and a spacious path that has been deemed accessible to those with mobility challenges.  

Buffalo Pound Provincial Park 

Leaving Regina, the Trans Canada Trail soon returned us to long stretches of gravel roadways, punctuated by reroutes, closed properties, and confusing signage that seemed to point in every possible direction. What was meant to be a 72-kilometre trek from Regina to Lumsden and onward to Buffalo Pound Provincial Park turned into more than 125 kilometres of backtracking and improvisation. In the end, we abandoned the official TCT route altogether (which we had not done before this point) and relied on Google Maps to find our way through the patchwork of detours and concessions.

 

Thankfully, when we finally reached Buffalo Pound Provincial Park, the experience once again reaffirmed Saskatchewan’s reputation for hospitality and care. The park’s trails were beautifully maintained, and the staff—true to the kindness we’d come to expect throughout the province—were wonderful. They told us about two other women who had recently come through on the Trans Canada Trail, though they couldn’t recall their names. Whether it was Sara Rose Jackson, Mel Vogel, or Dianne Whelan, we never found out.

 

After taking a much-needed rest day to wait out a torrential rainstorm and photograph the dense fog that followed, we rejoined the national pathway and continued our journey west.  

Trails of Lake Diefenbaker  

From Buffalo Pound, the Trans Canada Trail led us southwest toward Moose Jaw, a 51-kilometre walk that carried us through quiet farmland and rolling prairie. From there, the route stretched another 150 kilometres toward the southern shores of Lake Diefenbaker, where the landscape opened once again into wide skies and open fields.

 

The next stretch of the Great Trail in Saskatchewan that stands out is those pathways stretching along the shorelines of Lake Diefenbaker from Douglas Provincial Park to the town of Elbow to Danielson Provincial Park.   The connection of these trails throughout this area combines to give users more than 85 km of continuous pathways, which have clear signage, are wonderfully developed and regularly maintained.  These trails link a series of small communities, marinas, and quiet camping spots, which to us were like an oasis. 

 

The new trails through the village of Elbow are particularly well done and give way to an enjoyable trek around the marina, along the local coastline, over grassy hills, and through forests.    The Trans Canada Trail in the town of Elbow, Saskatchewan, is a gravel track which is particularly enjoyable to explore on a day hike while camping or visiting the region.  Along the route are benches and places to relax, enabling trail users to enjoy panoramic views of the lake.

 

We loved our time in this beautifully developed stretch of the Trans Canada Trail.  

City of Saskatoon, Meewasin Trails            

Beyond these park trails, the TCT became a long water section along the lake, with the result being that there was a 120 km gap in the hiking pathway.  Here, the only real option was to walk from the community of Cutbank to the community of Whitecap along Roadway 219, which we followed north for 111 km over the course of 4 days.

 

South of the city of Saskatoon, we were able to once again pick up the hiking paths of the Trans Canada Trail.

 

Much like the Wascana Trails of Regina, Saskatoon’s Meewasin Trails are another of the Great Trails in Saskatchewan – if not Canada.   In fact, when hiking across the entire country, we enjoyed this city so much that we spent over a week in Saskatoon recharging and exploring the region along the Meewasin paths.

The Trans Canada Trail section in Saskatoon comprises 50 km of Meewasin’s large network of urban pathways.     The Meewasin Trails are very well developed and maintained, making them amazing for walking, jogging, hiking and cycling as they follow the South Saskatchewan River through the city.

 

Established as a route to both educate and foster conservation, when we were privileged to hike this section of the Great Trail, we met local school classrooms cycling and exploring the city known as Science Trek, which we thought would have been a great way to have classes!

 

Not only does the Great Trail take walkers and hikers to many of Saskatoon’s beautiful green spaces, but it also ventures past art galleries and outdoor exhibits, to many of the city’s top tourist attractions, along its scenic waterfront, and to the UNESCO World Heritage Site the Wanuskewin Heritage Park, which is a fantastic spot for learning about Indigenous History and Culture. 

Trails of Northern Saskatchewan                         

Final selection for the Great Trails of Saskatchewan is both the most northern and most western segment of the Trans Canada Trail in the province.  Officially designated as the Trails of Northern Saskatchewan, this 516 km long section meanders and follows gravel roads north of the cities of Saskatoon and North Battleford.   While the idea of weaving along more than 500 km of concession roads on foot or by bike might not seem appealing – and it certainly was not for us beforehand - the fact remains that no stretch of the Trans Canada Trail defies expectations of the prairies more than this one!

 

On this stretch of the TCT, explorers have the opportunity to trek through the Redberry Lake UNESCO Biosphere Region, explore incredible history, take more ferries than anywhere else in the nation, and traverse beautiful landscapes. 

Trails of 1885 

Also along the Northern Trails of Saskatchewan are a number of sites on the Trails of 1885.  The Trans Canada Trail interacts with this route on and off as between Manitoba, through Saskatchewan, and into Alberta.  Essentially, the Trails of 1885 consist of a series of historic sites that mark significant events that occurred during the Northwest Resistance in 1885. 

 

In Northern Saskatchewan, hikers and cyclists can visit the sites of the Battle of Tournond’s Coulee / Fish Creek, Middleton’s Camp, Batoche National Historical Site, the Battle of Duck Lake Regional Interpretive Center, Fort Pitt, Frenchman Butte and Fort Battleford.  In the process, those adventurous at heart can learn a lot about an incredibly important chapter in Canadian history and gain a better understanding of the reasons behind the Northwest Resistance. 

Prairie to Pine Corridor Birding Trail 

In addition, the Northern Trails of Saskatchewan visited sites along the Prairie to Pine Corridor, which is part of Saskatchewan’s Birding Trail. Given our focus on encouraging people to connect with birds through nature, we were very excited to find and feature this trail, which we feel is another hidden prairie gem.

 

Essentially, the Pine to Prairie Birding Trail is a series of birding hot spots visiting a variety of habitats that support local breeding birds as well as large flocks of migrating birds annually.  These hotspots are located in Saskatchewan communities such as Vawn, Meota, Edam, Turtleford, and St. Walburg, and we particularly enjoyed the trail in St. Walburg, where over 250 species of birds have been reported.  This means that, beyond the amazing route and history of the region along the Trails of Northern Saskatchewan, visitors have the opportunity to connect with some of the province’s top birding hot spots as well! 

Final Reflections on the TCT in Saskatchewan

The Trans Canada Trail in Saskatchewan was not what we expected - it was better. From sand dunes to historic battlefields, ferries to prairie sunsets, bird migrations to unexpected kindness, it was a section of our journey that revealed the prairie province in its full depth and complexity.

 

Too often, Saskatchewan is overlooked and treated as a flyover or drive-through province.   Having walked across it however, we can attest that it certainly deserves for everyone to take another look at this wonderful region.    More Canadians need to spend more time here – exploring this stunning province – a region that does not go out of its way to advertise its natural wonders and welcoming spirit but which is truly a naturally beautiful part of the nation

 

While there is no denying that the trend of having incredible trails being separated by long hikes along backcountry roads did continue throughout Saskatchewan, we were nonetheless very surprised at how amazing those crown jewels and pathways across the province would be. The trails of Saskatchewan clearly showed that, rather than being a flat and boring province, “that one should get through as quickly as possible,” the prairies are one of the most beautiful parts of Canada. 

 

From the varied colours in the landscape, to the diversity of wildlife, to the rolling hills of Northern Saskatchewan, we were continually pushed to reorient our expectations, and we discovered some truly unexpected gems and experienced some amazing moments in nature.   The Great Trails of Saskatchewan allow hikers and cyclists to venture through prairie grasslands, following stunning river valleys, explore amazing provincial parks and visit some of the friendliest communities in Canada.  

 

In short, the trails of Saskatchewan reveal what Canadians can experience if they take the time to explore, look, listen and foster a deeper connection to the land.

 

See you on the trail!