"This is NOT a Trail' : Anthony Henday Ring Road to Devon

With the help of local knowledge, satellite imagery from Google maps, and a bit of patience we figured out a safer and more responsible route across the ring road around Edmonton.  It turned out that there was a perfectly nice cycling trail along the power corridor which took us safely under Anthony Henday Dr, and after that point we were able to weave our way through local subdivisions on wide, curving roads with sidewalks. 

Not only did this improvised route improve our chances of surviving the day quite considerably, it also took us past some interesting and quite picturesque storm water drainage ponds as we navigated through subdivisions on their sidewalks rather than on the local highway.  Sadly this route was NOT part of the Trans Canada Trail which instead followed the busy roadways of the region.

 

To our amazement we spotted several pairs of American Coots swimming among the cattails in one of these ponds, with nearly a dozen babies in tow!  There was also a pair of Common Goldeneyes with young, and the cattails were filled with Red-winged Blackbirds, many of whom were feeding young.  I knew storm water drainage ponds provided habitat for waterfowl, but I never realized they provided breeding habitat! 

We wove through the neighbourhoods of large homes, already feeling uncomfortably hot under the perfectly clear blue sky at 8 am.  Unfortunately, when we rejoined the Trans Canada Trail we found ourselves walking on a narrow, two-lane paved road with no shoulders.  It was morning rush-hour, and there was a lot traffic going in both directions, meaning the oncoming vehicles couldn't pull over to go around us.  It was extremely stressful, and made us wonder once again why the TCT would choose such a dangerous connector.  

Thankfully, about 1 km later we turned off this busy road into another neighbourhood, where we wove through quieter subdivision streets.  While we received odd looks as people headed out to work, everyone nonetheless smiled, waved and said hi.  Eventually we turned down what looked like a cul-de-sac, continued around a corner and through a bit of construction, and just like that we found ourselves on a straight gravel road heading out into the countryside.  It was a relief to be away from the busy traffic, and to be able to put the phone away, no longer needing to consult it at every turn and bend to see if we were still following the unmarked route. 

The gravel road ran straight south for nearly 6 km, jogged one concession west, and then headed south for another 6 km. It took us between lush green fields of grain and among patches of brilliant yellow canola.  Small stands of trees and untamed patches of wetland also dotted the landscape, providing habitat for birds, deer, and other unseen animals.  Best of all, in a few places tall rows of spruce bordered the edge of the road, providing deliciously cool patches of shade on a day that – according to The Weather Network- already felt like 31°C.  

Although there were several small housing settlements tucked into the trees, there was very little traffic in this stretch, apart from a road grader that was rumbling slowly along, and a very tall combine.  It would have been possible for us to stand up straight in the middle of the road and have it drive over top of us without it even touching us.  

As we approached our turn onto highway 19 we could see a steady stream of transports, oil tankers, delivery vans, pickup trucks, and small traffic whizzing along the road at incredibly high speeds.  We weren't even sure we would be able to cross the continuous line of traffic so we could walk facing the oncoming vehicles. 

What followed was perhaps the most terrifying stretch of walking we've done yet on the Trans Canada Trail, and that includes the sections of Trans Canada Highway we walked in northern Ontario.  The road was relatively narrow, two lanes wide, and it had no shoulder – and I mean absolutely no shoulder.  Cars and trucks were shooting past us within inches with no opportunity to pull over due to the constant flow of traffic in both directions.

To make matters worse, there was a lot of construction going on to widen the road – into what local residents later told us was to be Edmonton’s third ring road bypass - so the few inches we had at the edge of the pavement were occupied by multiple signs and pylons that required navigating around, pulling the carts down the steep ditch into the marshy ditch and back up. 

Terrifyingly we were not the only 'trail users' out here on this busy highway today as two cyclists passed us - into the traffic - to continue their own venture westward!

We survived that 8 km long death chute due to the kindness, consideration, courtesy, and skill of Alberta's drivers, and we'd like to thank everyone who passed us safely today, especially all those who were carrying wide loads, dragging chains, and driving heavily laden and extra-wide vehicles.  Thank you. 

It was abundantly clear that walking or bicycling along the edge of that interstate / highway / road was an incredibly dangerous and irresponsible thing to do.  For the third time in three days we found ourselves in a situation where the Trans Canada Trail's efforts to 'fully connect' the trail by drawing unchecked routes down roadways and highways had put us in a life threatening situation.  This again made us seriously question how we should move forward if we want to arrive alive in British Columbia. 

When we set out on this journey we knew that only 1/3 of the trail was off-road, and that nearly 20,000 km of it consisted of 'connectors' designed to string together sections of local trails.  We recognize there was pressure to 'finish' the trail for Canada's 150th birthday in 2017, and an article from Macleans Magazine states, this was largely done in an office, with a few clicks of a mouse.  It is one thing to draw lines down back-country roads and alternate routes.  It is quite another to do so by drawing lines down the middle of freeways, or along roads or bridges without shoulders or cycling lanes – especially without anyone from the TCT actually checking in person to ensure they are actually safe route.  At that point this exercise becomes what another author has transformed the Trans Canada Trail into 'a dangerous hoax.' 

Frustratingly one of the articles about the Trans Canada Trail sent to us by a follower includes a comment from from the TCT when questioned about their choice of routes stating that “People are encouraged to always choose the safest routes for themselves” noting that the current 'pathway' is merely a suggestion not a guide.

This is an odd perspective to have considering that trail is funded as a national pathway, that it has been drawn down the local roadway, and given that people are actively using the ‘path’ in the region.  If people aren't actually supposed to follow it why not just put the national trail in a safer location or along safer concessions? 

When we reached the outskirts of Devon we turned north on another very busy highway, but almost immediately were able to detour onto a lovely pathway stretching along a raised berm at the edge of town.  (Thank you to the town planners in Devon for having such beautiful city trails!)

Devon owes its existence to one of the largest oil discoveries in the world.  In 1947, the nearby Imperial No. 1 Leduc well struck oil, and Imperial Oil built the community to accommodate its employees.  Devon holds the distinction of being the first 'planned' Canadian community to be designed and then approved by a regional planning commission. 

As we pulled into one of the town’s plazas a local farmer pulled over noting that he had seen us on the concessions and wanting to chat.  The ensuing conservation led him to “whole heartedly advise us” to walk “any other route than the Trans Canada Trail” because as a motorcyclist he “knows the route and knew it was dangerous for people on motorcycles and deadly for hikers and cyclists”.  We were told stories of cyclists being regularly hit along these routes in Alberta and bluntly told that "you need to stay OFF the Trans Canada Trail in this area! No matter what any map says this is NOT a trail".  The ensuring conversation was dedicated to telling us about how irresponsible the route the Trans Canada Trail was for hikers and how it was a “potential death sentence” to follow.    The gentleman offered us a room for the night and spent an hour showing us alternative routes between our noted destinations “well off the TCT for our own safety”.  Thankfully we paid for his coffee at Tim Hortons and chatted well after his departure about what to do next.

As often happens on when hiking a trail, the worst moments are followed by some of the best.  We were picked up by a friend and wonderful human being whom we met while walking the Camino Frances in 2016.   What followed was the first true 'rest' day we've had in sometime, filled with excellent company and conversation, delicious food, and time spent in a beautiful, peaceful, sanctuary I the countryside. It was a true gift for which we are amazingly grateful.

Yet I have the sense that today’s frustration was not the last to be experienced in Alberta. Emails from members of the provincial trail organization known as Alberta TrailNet and former Trans Canada Trail board members essentially urge safety, highlight that more engagement and development are required to connect their amazing pathways throughout the province while emphasizing that “We don’t consider on-road alignments as trails." 

Perhaps I am speaking out of frustration – I recognize that the TCT – has highlighted that their route is a suggestion and not one to be followed as they expect individuals to find their own safe way through  but to me, it is abundantly clear that Alberta Trailnet in rejecting these ‘connectors’ as trails as they are unsafe is being absolutely safe and honest, while the TCT has created a dangerous situation.

Tonight I worry about our safety and what comes next on this region’s ‘Trans Canada Trail’. 

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online