Canada's Great Urban Gem : Hiking Across Edmonton

The urban trails of Edmonton that we followed for just over 40 km today showcased the best of the Trans Canada Trail experience.  They represented the dream of beautiful off-road cycling and hiking trails that allow trail users to navigate a city safely and enjoyably.  It was a day of bridges, well wishers, and a winding river valley with eight bridge crossings over the North Saskatchewan River.  

Edmonton, which is the capital of Alberta and the most northern provincial capital in Canada, has a population of just over 1.4 million people, making it the fifth-largest city in the country.  It is bisected by the North Saskatchewan River, and the city has chosen to retain much of the river-front as public land.  As a result, Edmonton's river valley park system has become the longest stretch of connected urban parkland in North America, and the city now has the highest amount of parkland per capita of any Canadian city.  All of the riverfront parks are connected by the River Valley Trail, which runs the length of the city and connects to a 160 km long network of multiuse pathways throughout the area.

The morning began by heading out of Sherwood Park along the paved cycling path running parallel to the appropriately named Petroleum Way.  As we wove through the Suncor Energy Edmonton Refinery for the first 5 km of our walk, we passed a creative art exhibit.  Colourful murals had been painted on the cycling trail depicting brightly coloured birds, insects, mammals, and plants.  There were three separate murals by Crystal Driedger, collectively called 'Wilderness Interrupted.' 

At the far edge of the industrial park we had to wait about 10 minutes for a very long freight train to pass through before we could cross the tracks into Strathcona Science Provincial Park.  This 2.9 km square greenspace was established in 1979, and spans both sides of the North Saskatchewan River valley.  The site was used by First Nations Peoples as a trading camp, and the bluffs along the riverbank provided excellent bison hunting opportunities.  Archaeological work was done on the site in the late 1970's, and it was protected to preserve it from encroaching industrial development in the region. 

 

Today the trails can be used for hiking, cycling, and geocaching in summer, and for cross-country and downhill skiing, and tobogganing in winter.  We had a short hike across the beautiful grassy greenspace, and then almost immediately crossed the North Saskatchewan River on the picturesque Strathcona Science Park Pedestrian Bridge.  As we looked at the wide, chocolatey brown waters of the river below us, we could see a large family of Common Mergansers sitting on a sand bar.  A short distance downriver a group of American White Pelicans bobbed gently in the current.  Below us, a large group of Franklin's Gulls wheeled and dove through the air. 

After crossing the bridge into Rundle Park the paved cycling trail took us through a hilly landscape, dotted with stands of trees and patches of un-mowed grass.  To our amazement, we passed a grassy hillside that was absolutely full of tiny orange butterflies sitting perfectly still on purple wildflowers and tall grasses. 

We continued past a large picnic area with tables and fire pits tucked under tall shade trees. Adjacent to this were tennis courts and a soccer field, where it looked like several summer camps were under way.  A little farther on we passed a Paddling Centre on the edge of a still, dark, mirror-like pond, which reflected the surrounding vegetation perfectly.  A few single ducks, including a Bufflehead and a Ruddy Duck were floating out in the middle, their heads firmly tucked beneath their wings. 

It was a quiet, treed greenspace with a beautiful pathway, and even though it was still relatively early on a Monday morning, there were quite a few people out walking, jogging, and cycling.  Like yesterday, quite a few trail users stopped to ask us what we were doing and to wish us well, and one very nice man even cycled ahead to check an upcoming trail closure and then reported back that this particular piece of construction was finished, and we should be okay to continue.  We greatly appreciated his kindness!

After passing by a frisbee golf course, we crossed back over the North Saskatchewan River again, for the second of eight times today.  This crossing was on the Ainsworth Dyer Memorial Bridge, which was another interesting pedestrian bridge with a wooden bed that made a satisfying rumble as we rolled our carts across.  Apparently Cpl. Dyer proposed to his fiancé on this bridge, but sadly was later killed by friendly fire when fighting in Afghanistan as part of "A" Company, 3rd Battalion, Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry.  

On the far side of that bridge we found ourselves in Gold Bar Park, another peaceful, lush, green urban park in Edmonton's beautiful river valley.  The paved cycling path wound through grassy patches and treed areas, making a cool, shady corridor.  We passed a large park pavilion on our left before skirting around a fenced off wastewater treatment plant.  

On the far side of the plant we found ourselves in Capilano Park, which made for a change in scenery.  This long linear park ran along the bluff at the top of the forested river bank, with a quiet paved road bordered by homes along one edge.  Each of the well-landscaped and modernized homes was different, and each one enjoyed a good view out over the treed river valley. 

As we neared the end of the park we could see where the trail curved around ahead, then dropped down, crossed the highway, and was supposed to continue on along the valley.  From our elevated position we could see construction at the base of a very long staircase going up the forested side of the valley on the far side.  Our trail was supposed to continue past the steps, but instead we had found the first of several trail closures we'd been warned about. 

As we surveyed our surroundings, trying to figure out what to do, and studying a map of re-routes that Sherry H, a wonderful local supporter of our hike had sent us, a man came up and asked if we needed help.  We asked him for directions/advice, which he very kindly gave us, and it turned out he had a great story of his own. He was from Newfoundland, and he had actually cycled 13,000 km across Canada.  He had 200-300 km left to reach Victoria, BC and he was heading out next week to finish his own epic journey!  We wished each other well, and went our separate ways. 

Although we had a map and excellent instructions for navigating the re-route, somehow we still managed to end up climbing the wooden steps.  There were several very fit people running up and down the staircase for exercise as we huffed and puffed our way up, pulling the carts behind us with a bump, bump, bump.  It turned out we had to climb 179 steps to reach the top of the river valley! The others who were out doing their exercises were very patient with us, giving us encouragement as we climbed, and slowing their own runs to make way.  Once again, we were so impressed with the courtesy and kindness of people here in Alberta. 

At the top of the steps we emerged into a pleasant neighbourhood.  The quiet streets were lined with large and well-landscaped homes, and one of them even featured a very creative Little Free Library. Several more people stopped us for a chat, and we were left amazed at everyone's friendliness. 

At the far end of the detour we found ourselves walking beside a very busy road and passing by the Riverside Golf Course.  As we made our way down to yet another bridge across the river, this one a car bridge with bright blue spans and a pedestrian walkway, we had our first really good views of the Edmonton skyline.  To our amusement, we shared the sidewalk with several men who were pushing golf carts from one side of the course to the other.  For once on this trek, as we pushed our own carts along the sidewalk we blended in (at least a little bit)! 

For the next 10 km or so we followed a gloriously shaded section of trail that wove along at river level, following the contours of the shore.  As we followed the shoreline we passed peaceful and affluent looking neighbourhoods, golf courses, and several more open and grassy parks. We took several breaks at shady picnic tables placed along the treed waterfront, but even in the shade it was a hot day. 

A highlight was coming to the Tawatina Bridge, which is a dedicated LRT bridge over the North Saskatchewan River which has a multiuse pathway running along underneath it.  The name of the bridge is the Cree word for "valley", and the underside of it features 400 pieces of colourful artwork by the Métis artist David Garneau, as well as artwork by Regina artist Madhu Kumar, various Indigenous artists, and others.  We particularly enjoyed seeing the depictions of birds and animals included in the exhibit. 

Just after the bridge we came to Edmonton's Trans Canada Trail Pavilion.  It was tucked under the bridge, and we were interested to see that is has been updated to include the new trail logo.  When we looked at the yellow circle indicating our position on the map we were a little shocked to see that visually we are now well past the center of the country.  We are now closer to the end than the beginning of the east-west portion of a journey that seemed far too big to ever complete. 

The trails were busy with people out walking, jogging, and cycling, and as we paused for a moment at the pavilion a family of cyclists came up and asked what we were doing.  They had seen us on the Iron Horse Trail on their way back from a stay at Cold Lake, and had looked up the trail.  Discovering that our journey has inspired others to learn more about Canada is always very exciting! 

 

We stopped for an ice cream at the nearby River Valley Adventure Co. to cool off. There was a beautiful patio with a view over the river, but unfortunately at that time of day it was in the full sun, and even with the ice cream we were too hot. 

 

Just after crossing the river once again on the Quesnell Bridge we came to the famous Talus Dome. This is one of Edmonton's most controversial art exhibits, and it consists of nearly 1,000 shiny silver spheres piled into a dome-like shape.  The Public Art Archive describes the Talus Dome as "both a sculpture in the landscape and a mirror to the landscape.  It reflects the sky, the weather, and the river of cars that pass by.  The hollowed dome is part of a holistic landscape where nature and culture are inextricably linked."  While this sounds lofty and visionary, detractors object to a $600,000 sculpture that looks like "a giant pile of rabbit turds."  I am not an art expert, but I think it was kind of cool. 

After this our route wove us to Fort Edmonton Park.  The park houses the largest living history museum in Canada by area, and includes both original and rebuilt historical structures representing the history of Edmonton.  Among other things, visitors can board a working stream train, which transports them to three streets representing different periods in Edmonton's History: 1885, 1905, and 1920. 

Fort Edmonton (or Edmonton House) was originally a series of trading posts operated by the Hudson's Bay Company from 1795 to 1914.  Not only was it one of the last points on the Carleton Trail, but it was also an important stop on the "York Factory Express."  This 4,200 km overland route linked the HBC headquarters at York Factory on Hudson's Bay to Fort Vancouver, the principle depot of the Columbia Department in the Pacific Northwest.  It was used by the HBC to quickly move departmental requisitions, reports, correspondence, and personnel, but not heavy furs or supplies.  The express brigade was known as the York Factory Express on its eastbound route, and as the Columbia Express, or the Autumn Express on its westbound journey.

The original Fort Edmonton, which was built just south of where the Alberta Legislative Buildings now stand, was torn down in 1915. Parts of it have been salvaged or restored, and others have been recreated.  Sadly, Fort Edmonton Park was closed when we walked past, so we weren't able to explore it.  Perhaps we will get a chance next spring when we return to walk north. 

After passing the Fort the trail took on a different feel.   It was narrower and winding, bordered on both sides by trees which created a beautiful shaded green corridor.  It was busy with cyclists, and many of them dinged their bells repeatedly until we stepped off the trail, passing us without pulling over into the other cycling lane.  Until this point everyone had been very courteous, slowing down and passing with a smile and a wave.  This stretch with its hills and sharp corners seemed to be dedicated to cyclists racing through rather than those touring the area. 

After crossing the North Saskatchewan River for the 7th time, on the Fort Edmonton Footbridge, we found ourselves in a much more open area.  The trail was bordered by wild, grassy floodplain, dotted by small trees and shrubs.  Ahead of us a mule deer suddenly erupted out of the shrubbery, bounding across the trail and out of sight.  On the far side of the floodplain sandy cliffs rose up.  A row of homes was perched precariously on the very edge of the bluff, which was clearly experiencing some serious erosion.  

By this point in the afternoon the sunshine had become brutally hot.  We had planned to walk across Edmonton in two days instead of one, but earlier in the day the combination of excellent trails and great weather had convinced us to push on past our initial stopping point.  The result was a day that was slightly over 40 km, and although this wasn't a particularly arduous distance, the afternoon sun was beginning to take its toll. 

When we crossed the river for the last time, we were excited to see that the Terwillegar Park Footbridge offered two sets of gloriously shaded benches on the way across.  It was a very fancy and modern bridge, and really quite beautiful.  As we approached the first of the shelters we discovered it was already occupied, as was the second one.  Happily, there was a deliciously cool breeze coming down the river, and we paused for a few moments to let it cool us off. 

It was a good thing we did this, because we had a long, steady climb up Rabbit Hill Rd ahead of us.  It was not a strenuous climb, but by this point our energy was beginning to flag.  The climb was followed by a long winding path through subdivisions of very large, modern, well-landscaped homes.  We were grateful for the sidewalks and paved cycling pathways that were lined with small shade trees. 

We were planning to stay with a couple of friends from university, and we had almost reached their home when we had one final hurdle to overcome.  We turned down Terwillegar Rd, which was an incredibly busy, 4-6 lane road.  Unfortunately, it was under construction, and if there had been a sidewalk at one time it was now gone.  According to the Trans Canada Trail app all we needed to do was follow the road over Anthony Henday Dr, the ringroad that provides a high-speed bypass circling Edmonton, to continue southward. 

Despite the speed of the roadway we persevered, walking through the construction at the edge of Terwillegar Dr for several kilometres in the hot afternoon sunshine.  When we reached the overpass at the ring road we discovered that for the second time in three days we were standing at a bridge without so much as a shoulder, let alone a cycling lane or sidewalk.  The high-speed traffic was non-stop, and once again, we were left feeling that there was absolutely no way to make that crossing safely on foot.  

As if to emphasize the point, as we were standing there, an police officer pulled up and asked what we were doing.  He informed us that he could not let us continue to walk along this roadway.  We explained that the bridge was part of the Trans Canada Trail, and that we were walking across Canada on it.  He looked puzzled, asked where the trail went, checked the map on the TCT website with his own cellphone and then turned around to look at the roaringly busy bridge behind him.  He then turned back to us and asked the essential question "But isn't the Trans Canada Trail, you know, a trail?”  When we had no clear answer to explain some of the places the TCT had already taken us he then informed us in good conscience he could not let us walk alongside the roadway.  He felt that it was just too unsafe to cross that bridge on foot and that we had to find another way around.  We couldn't have agreed more. 

It seemed that while the urban trails of Edmonton are phenomenal, they do not extend beyond the city.  The result being that where the Trans Canada Trail "takes over" pathways are replaced with roadways and highways termed on their own website as "Connectors".  Accordingly they are only to be used "with extreme caution" with the suggestion that "Alternative routes or means of transportation are strongly recommended for connecting them from these points." Give that more than 1000 km of the TCT in Alberta and British Columbia that we will hike this year come with these same warnings one has to wonder why the national trail was placed on such dangerous routes if "alternative means of transportation are strongly recommended".  Isn't the point of the TCT to have a viable off road trail for Canadians to safely connect with nature and explore the nation?

Regardless, we thanked the police officer for his sage advice, back-tracked to a small urban park in one of the subdivisions and asked the people we were staying with if they could pick us up from there.  This time we were determined to figure out another way around the impassable bridge, but at the tail end of a 40 km day, in the extreme heat of the late afternoon we didn't have much energy left to experiment with alternatives and test possible reroutes.  Tomorrow we will begin exactly where we left off, but with a better plan.  It was a wonderful day of hiking the gorgeous trails of Edmonton, and meeting up with friends was the perfect way to end it.

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online