Along the Mighty Fraser River : Hope to Agassiz

The temperature dipped well below zero last night, and it was still chilly when we set out to explore around Hope this morning.  The town is located at the confluence of the Fraser and Coquihalla Rivers.  It is also at the eastern end of the Fraser Valley and the Lower Mainland region, and at the southern tip of the Fraser Canyon. To the east we could see the tall, steep Cascade Mountains rising up, their rocky tops covered in a thick layer of pristine white snow.

The Stó:lō have inhabited the region for between 8,000 and 10,000 years.  In 1782 a smallpox epidemic wiped out thousands of Stó:lō, killing about 2/3 of the population.  In 1808 the explorer Simon Fraser arrived at the place where Hope now stands, and in 1848 the Hudson's Bay Company established the Fort Hope trading post there.  Ten years later the area was transformed by the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush, and in 1859 Governor James Douglas laid out the Hope town site.

Fort Hope was established in 1848-49 by Henry Newsham Peers.  He named the spot after he had successfully found a route through the mountains that did not go south of the 49th parallel.  Reaching the location meant that his hope of finding the route had been fulfilled.  Using his route, goods were brought up the Fraser River from Fort Langley and taken by pack train to Kamloops, up to Fort Alexandria, and north to New Caledonia.

As we walked towards downtown Hope we passed a beautiful carved wooden totem pole in a small park on the banks of the enormously wide, shallow, rocky Fraser River.  At the base of the totem pole was a tribute to the victims and survivors of the Residential Schools, and a large orange banner reminding us that 'Every Child Matters.'

Just beside this tribute was a historical plaque for Fort Hope, and several interpretive panels describing the history of the area.  We paused to read the information, and stepped past the plaques onto the lookout over the river, imagining all the important events that had taken place on this spot.

From the riverside walk we headed downtown, finding a main street lined with huge, old conifers.  The single-story shops and cafés that made up the downtown were dwarfed by these ancient giants.  We were also very impressed with the carved wooden animals and totems that were spread out along the streets.  Birds, bears, fish, and what looked like a large gnome were among our favourites.

After our short exploration of the downtown, and a hurried breakfast, we headed out.  We followed the Trans Canada Highway out of Hope, crossing the Fraser River at the edge of town.  This is the longest river in British Columbia, beginning near Blackrock Mountain in the Rockies and flowing 1,375 km into the Strait of Georgia just south of Vancouver.  The river is named after Simon Fraser, who led an expedition on behalf of the North West Company in 1808 from the location of present-day Prince George almost to the mouth of the river.  The river's name in the Halqemeylem language is Stö:lō, and in the Dakelk language it is called Lhtakoh.

Today's trek along the TCT would have us following the 'cycling alternative' to Agassiz. This meant that from start to end we would hike along city streets, and down local highways.  As we crossed the long, curving bridge, hoping there was no black ice on it to derail the oncoming traffic, we looked down at the huge river below us.  We couldn't help noticing that the water levels were extremely low.  Vast expanses of rocky shoreline were exposed along the edges, and large rocky shoals broke the surface of the very shallow water in the centre.

After crossing the river we diverted down onto Highway 7, or the Lougheed Highway, which we followed south-west for the next 32 km to Agassiz.  The highway runs parallel to the CPR line, which in turn follows the shoreline of the mighty Fraser River. As far as highway walking goes it was pretty nice - there was a very wide, flat, paved shoulder with an additional flat, grassy strip in most areas.  We had been hoping that most of the traffic would follow Highway 1 on the opposite side of the river, so we were a bit disappointed to discover that the route was heavily used by transport trucks.  Still, it wasn't too bad.

As we set off down the tree-lined highway the mountains of the Sagit Range – which the main, but currently closed, Trans Canada Trail route follows - stood like a massive, impenetrable wall beside us.  The slopes were so steep and rocky they rose up nearly vertically, and it seemed incredible that conifers could grow and thrive on their slopes. On one side the treed slopes were lit by the morning sunshine, while on the other they stood like a dark, forbidding fortress.

Early on we passed under a large red and white striped pipeline that spanned high above the river, the railway, and the road.  Google gave no indication what this pipeline might contain, but it wasn't the only one we saw evidence of today.  On the far side of the river we could see construction going on, and large gashes appearing in the mountainsides where the Trans Mountain Pipeline – the same project we have repeatedly crossed over and under for several weeks - is being built. When complete this highly controversial pipeline will bring crude and refined oil from Alberta to the coast of British Columbia. It is currently owned by the Government of Canada, and is located to roughly parallel an oil pipeline already owned by the government, which has been in operation since the early 1950's.  It is difficult to understand how such a project, which carries enormous risk of environmental disasters from leaking, breaking, or burning, can be located so close to one of BC's major rivers, and it has been met with much opposition, especially from First Nations groups.

Just after we passed the pipeline, in the community of Katz, we found ourselves walking past a series of low wooden buildings, including a community centre for the Chawathil First Nation.  The parking lot was full of cars, and we could hear incredibly beautiful singing coming from inside what looked like a magnificent community centre.  It almost seemed like the melody was echoing off the cliffs above us.  The Chawathil First Nation is a band government of the Stö:lō People.

We continued on, enjoying and fully appreciating the warm, sunny, weather. We have been so very lucky this year, and after a few days of very heavy rain and the first flakes of snow, we have gained a new appreciation for every day that isn't cloudy, wet, or snowy.  Today we were still blessed with fall colours, and we enjoyed the warm yellows, burnt oranges, and browns of the autumn vegetation that complimented the hazy blues of the mountains beyond.  Yet we are also keenly aware that winter is near and that even tonight snow is expected in Hope which is now just behind us.

About 3 hours into our hike we came to the Syéxw Chó:leqw Adventure Park.  The park is located on the traditional territory of the Sq'ewá:lxw First Nation, and its name translates as 'Rockslide in the Forest.' The name refers to the scree slope on the north end of the park where rocks have been falling down the side of the mountain for thousands of years.  The park includes 4 km of hiking trails, a bike skills park, viewing platforms, a 90,000 sq ft playground, murals, wooden sculptures, pit toilets, and more. 

While the park sounded fantastic, and the treed slopes rising straight up above us were very beautiful, we merely sat for a few minutes on one of the huge logs that bordered the parking lot.  While we took a break we read about the Sq'ewá:lxw (aka sasquatch) sighting that occurred near the spot.  Stories about Sasquatches have been around for ages, but the encounter that purportedly took place nearby in 1941 was accompanied by physical evidence, including gigantic humanoid footprints.  It is considered by some to be evidence of the mysterious creature, and it is believed that this mysterious creature lives or lived in this area.

As we continued onward we approached the community of Ruby Creek, and realized we were crossing the traditional territory of the Skawahlook First Nation, which is also a band government of the Stö:lō People.  First we passed a sign warning of a 'Strong Crosswind Area' and abruptly came to a small open area which offered rare views down the Fraser River Valley.  The snow covered peaks rising up above the river, and disappearing into the hazy distance looked very majestic, and provided a stunning background for the river.

Next, we crossed over Ruby Creek, and enjoyed gorgeous views of its sparkling waters from the highway bridge.  The river flowing out to the Fraser was crystal clear and fast flowing, and we stopped to see if we could spot any fish, but sadly we had no luck. However,  to our delight tow Bald Eagles were out fishing in the deeper waters of the Fraser.

Around 1 pm we unexpectedly came to a highway rest stop.  It was closed to traffic, but we gladly walked around the barriers and sat for a few minutes at the picnic tables in the warm afternoon sunshine.  The rest stop was provided courtesy of the Stó:lō First Nation, and a bank of kiosks provided information about the First Nation.  The signs clarified that stó:lō means river, making the Stö:lō First Nation the 'People of the River.'  Today this First Nation is identified politically as 24 communities that are spread out along the Fraser River and its tributaries between Yale and Fort Langley.

Shortly after leaving the rest stop, the road climbed up for a hundred meters or so.  We wove upwards along the edge of the highway and once again enjoying beautiful views down the river valley and marvelling at the steep, rocky slopes rising up on the far side of us. 

After we'd descended back to river level, we passed the site of a recent landslide.  A huge gash had been ripped into the side of the mountain, extending far, far above us.  A small waterfall was rushing down the slide area, creating a thin, white band down the slope.  On the opposite side of the road a large swath of mud, huge trees, and other debris were strewn about.  Once again, we were struck by the shear power and force that is required to reform mountains.

After this point we followed a very long, straight stretch of road.  This was the approach to Agassiz, and as we got closer the traffic seemed to get louder, faster, and much more prevalent.  Many drivers were distracted by their phones, even as they passed each other at high speeds.  In addition to the increased road traffic, six CPR trains went chugging by beside us during the last couple hours of our walk.

As we hiked on through the beautiful, sunny afternoon we couldn't help feeling that all the noises and stress of the city were returning.  For the past few weeks we've frequently been in the mountains, walking rail trails where we have no cell service and human contact is minimal.  It has been peaceful and calming, and now that it is coming to an end, we realize there is almost nothing about our return to civilization, cities, and the online world that we are looking forward to.

About 3 km outside of Agassiz we passed the Seabird Island Indian Reservation.  The reserve was established around 130 years ago, when Gilbert Malcolm Sproat, who was a representative from the Indian Reserve Commission, allocated Seabird Island to be held in common by people from the Popkum, Skw'átits, Ohamil, Ska-wah-look, Hope, Union Bar and Yale First Nations.  The island offered rich soil for farming, from which the families could earn a living.  Recently, the Seabird Island Nation Reservation was the first to secure high-speed wireless internet throughout, and they have initiated a project to build sustainable housing that makes use of recycled materials, energy and water capturing devices, and other first-in-the-world ecofriendly technologies.  Pretty cool!

We took a short break at the Esso Station just before Agassiz.  As we sat at the picnic table in the parking lot outside we enjoyed stunning views of the snow capped Mount Cheam above us.  Its peaks were covered in bright, white snow, which stood out against the brilliant blue sky. Below it we began to see small farms and fields stretched out along the flat valley bottom.

Mount Cheam, or Cheam Peak, was named after the Stö:lō word for 'wild strawberry.'  The mountain is also referred to as Lhílheqey (Theeth-uhl-kay) in the Halqemeylem language.  The term derives from the words for 'the source' or 'place from which the water springs.'  The structure of the mountain is pyramidal, with shear faces in all four cardinal directions, and it is the birthplace of several rivers.

Cheam is the farthest northerly peak of a small group of peaks known as the Cheam Range, which are a subrange of the Sagit Range of the Canadian Cascades.  Even though we've been walking through foothills and mountains since leaving Bragg Creek, Alberta, I haven't been able to get a handle on how the geography of mountains works - or how there seem to be ranges within ranges within subranges.  In any case, Cheam Peak and the surrounding peaks, which are known as the Four Sisters or Four Brothers, dominate the Fraser Valley, rising high above Agassiz and Chilliwack, and they are visible as far away as Vancouver Island on a clear day.

Around 4 pm we walked into the small community of Agassiz.  Although in true TCT fashion the official trail took us along the highway to the edge of town and then diverted back out into the fields in a large bubble around it.  Needless to say that after 38 km of trekked we were tired and hungry and wanted a break.  We therefore decided to doubled back and continue into the town, which turned out to have a lovely main street.  The Agassiz Harrison Museum and Visitor Center is now located in the old, restored CPR train station that was built in 1893.  This building was once used as the living quarters for the station master and his family.  In the early part of the 20th century Agassiz was an important point for collecting milk, which was brought by train from area farmers into Vancouver.  It was also a stop for loading produce grown in the Fraser Valley.  August and October were extra busy months, when over 1,000 pickers were brought in and taken home after harvesting the hops crops.

Beside the restored and well landscaped station was Pioneer Park, a lovely green space shaded by many huge, ancient trees.  While I waited on a bench in the park with our packs, Sean went across the street to the mouth watering Cabin Fever Junction Bakery.  He returned with two delicious butter tarts, which we thoroughly enjoyed while sitting in the late afternoon sunshine.

A few weeks ago we received a very kind and generous offer of a place to stay in Harrison Hot Springs, which is 8 km north of Agassiz.  This is quite a distance off the trail, so we didn't immediately accept the offer, being unsure whether to make the detour or not.  There isn't really anywhere to stay in Agassiz, so in the end, rather than scoping out an unobtrusive place to random camp, we decided to accept the incredibly kind offer and make the detour.

The Village of Harrison Hot Springs is a resort community on the southern end of Harrison Lake with a permanent population of just over 1,500 people.  It is named after Benjamin Harrison, a former deputy governor for the Hudson's Bay Company, and it has existed more or less since 1886.  At that point, completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway brought the hot springs, for which the town is named, into an acceptable distance by carriage ride from the main CPR line.

There are two hot springs in the resort community - the 'potash' spring, which has a temperature of around 40°C, and the 'sulphur' spring, which is around 65°C.  According to the large and highly luxurious Harrison Hot Springs Resort, the waters average about 1300 ppm of dissolved mineral solids, which is one of the highest concentration of any mineral spring.  Interestingly, these hot springs are part of a chain of springs that line the valley of the Lillooet River and Harrison Lake, with the most northern one occurring at Meager Creek, north of Whistler.

Although we didn't visit either of the hot springs, we did walk along the very well-landscaped shoreline of Harrison Lake.  This is the largest lake in the southern Coastal Mountains, having a surface area of 250 square kilometres. It is about 60 km long and 9 km across at its widest point, and in some spots it is about 900 ft deep. 

The beautiful lake is surrounded by mountains, making the scenery spectacular.  To the east is the Lilooet Range and to the west is Douglas Range, both of which are subdivisions of the Coastal Mountain Range.  This is the last major mountain range left between us and the Pacific Ocean.  As we stood on the edge of the water in the crisp, cool evening air watching the moon rise behind us above the snow capped peak of Mount Cheam, we savoured the calm, quiet, peaceful moment, knowing that tomorrow we will head into the outskirts of the Greater Vancouver Area.

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online