From Canada's Northern Forests to Portugal's Atlantic Coast: Finding Another Way to Walk

Returning from Portugal

When we reluctantly postponed our plans to continue north on the Trans Canada Trail earlier this year, we had little idea where the next several weeks would take us. Our goal for 2023 had been to walk from Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta, toward Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean, completing the northern portion of the coast-to-coast-to-coast journey we began in Newfoundland four years earlier. Unfortunately, wildfire activity, evacuations and uncertainty surrounding travel through northern communities made us question whether continuing as planned would be practical or responsible. Rather than commit ourselves to a route where transportation, resupply and access to emergency assistance were already challenging, we decided to wait and see how conditions developed.

 
In the meantime, our desire to get outdoors and continue travelling on foot drew us back to Portugal. What followed was a wonderful journey along the Rota Vicentina's Fisherman's Trail, north through Portugal on the Camino Português Central, and eventually along the Coastal and Espiritual pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Over approximately forty days we experienced an extraordinary variety of landscapes, from the rugged cliffs of the Algarve and Alentejo to the historic towns, working fishing harbours, estuaries, forests and green countryside of northern Portugal and Galicia. Although we had originally chosen this adventure because our plans in Canada had become uncertain, the journey soon developed a character and importance entirely its own.
 

The Rota Vicentina: Wildlife Along Portugal's Wild Atlantic Coast

 
Our introduction to the natural wonders of southern Portugal began almost as soon as we arrived at Faro Airport. Armed with local birding information, we set off toward the nearby Ria Formosa wetlands, where salt pans, tidal channels and muddy flats provided an unexpected introduction to the region's remarkable birdlife. Among the highlights were Greater Flamingos feeding in the shallow water, Eurasian Spoonbills, herons and egrets exploring the shoreline, and countless small crabs emerging from their burrows in the exposed mud. Watching wild flamingos for the first time was particularly memorable, especially given the rather unlikely setting of a thriving wetland beneath the flight path of an international airport.

 
From Lagos, our walk along the Rota Vicentina led us west through the dramatic coastal landscapes of the Algarve toward Cabo de São Vicente, before turning north along the Atlantic coast. For twelve days and approximately 230 kilometres, we followed narrow footpaths above enormous cliffs, descended repeatedly toward secluded beaches, crossed sandy dunes and explored villages where fishing and tourism remained closely connected to the sea. The coastline itself was fascinating, with layers of red, yellow and grey stone, towering headlands, sea caves and rock formations that revealed the enormous geological history of the region. Near Salema, we even spent part of an afternoon searching the rocks above the beach for fossilized dinosaur footprints, eventually locating them with the help of another family who had been exploring the same area.
 
As naturalists and birdwatchers, we were particularly interested in the wildlife supported by the coastal scrub, cliffs and scattered freshwater habitats. European Stonechats called from the low vegetation, Sardinian Warblers disappeared into flowering shrubs, and Thekla's Larks moved through the dry grasslands. Around Sagres, we watched Red-billed Choughs nesting among the coastal rocks while gulls soared along the cliff edges and swallows darted through openings in the stone. We also encountered lizards, an unexpectedly large snake, and even a scorpion basking beside the trail. At Praia dos Rebolinhos, a small pond tucked beneath the cliffs supported a wonderful concentration of frogs and nesting birds, demonstrating how much wildlife could gather around even a modest source of freshwater in an otherwise exposed and dry landscape.

 
One of the unexpected pleasures of the Fisherman's Trail was discovering how much botanical diversity existed in the sandy, windswept environments through which we walked. Rosemary, lavender, thyme and low coastal shrubs grew among brightly coloured wildflowers, while succulents spread across dunes and rocky slopes in enormous patches. At times, familiar plants that we associated with small pots in Canadian garden centres covered entire hillsides. The physical demands of walking through deep, loose sand occasionally left us looking more closely at the ground than the horizon, and in doing so we found ourselves noticing the insects, flowers, lizards and intricate vegetation that might otherwise have been overlooked.

 

It was a spectacular stretch of coast, but not always an easy trail. Many days involved repeated steep descents to beaches followed by equally demanding climbs back to the cliff tops. Exposed terrain, heat, sand and occasional uncertainty about the direction of the path all required patience. Yet the opportunity to spend so much time beside the Atlantic, exploring the natural history of a landscape entirely different from the Canadian trails we had been following, made the effort worthwhile.
 

Returning to the Camino Português

 
After reaching the northern end of the Rota Vicentina, we continued toward Lisbon and returned to the Camino Português Central, retracing part of the pilgrimage route we had first walked in 2019. This time, however, we made a deliberate decision not to maintain another daily public account of that familiar section. Instead, we allowed ourselves the opportunity simply to walk, enjoy the communities and countryside, watch birds and take photographs without feeling that every day's experiences needed to become another published journal entry. It was a welcome change, and a reminder that even after years of documenting our journeys, we still valued the simple pleasure of travelling for its own sake.

 
When we reached Porto, we set off on a different route from the one we had followed several years earlier. Rather than continuing along the inland trail, we headed west beside the Douro River and followed a combination of the Camino Português Litoral and Coastal paths northward toward Spain. Here the character of our journey changed again. The remote cliffs and quieter fishing communities of the Rota Vicentina were replaced by a lively coastline of working harbours, seaside resorts, promenades, boardwalks, beaches and estuaries. It was a more developed landscape, but one that offered an equally interesting opportunity to observe how wildlife persisted alongside communities and human activity.
 
We were delighted by the number of birds encountered almost immediately upon leaving Porto. Common Sandpipers and egrets worked the riverbanks, while Monk Parakeets called noisily from the trees near the Jardim do Passeio Alegre. Farther along the coast, wooden boardwalks carried us through fragile dune systems where Kentish Plovers moved across the pale sand, often blending so effectively with their surroundings that they were difficult to see until they moved.

 
These protected areas were a welcome reminder that even heavily visited coastlines can support valuable wildlife habitats, provided that people are willing to recognize and protect them.
The numerous rivers flowing into the Atlantic created some of our favourite birdwatching opportunities. Near Esposende, we stopped at a wildlife observation blind overlooking wetlands and marsh vegetation, while farther north near Viana do Castelo, the Lima River estuary provided opportunities to watch Whimbrels, gulls and other shorebirds. We frequently found ourselves travelling much more slowly than the pilgrims around us, distracted by movement along the water, unfamiliar calls from the reeds, or the possibility that one more bird might be hiding among the vegetation.

 
After crossing the Minho River into Galicia, we continued along Spain's Atlantic coastline, eventually reaching one of the most memorable birding locations of the entire journey near A Ramallosa. Here, low tide had exposed extensive mudflats in the Río Miñor estuary, attracting an extraordinary variety of birds. Little Egrets, Whimbrels, Black-bellied Plovers, Common Ringed Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Dunlin and Common Redshanks were among the species we recorded while slowly exploring the shoreline. Around us, local residents harvested shellfish from the exposed flats and boats rested in the shallows, creating a landscape where wildlife, conservation, recreation and traditional livelihoods all occupied the same space.

 
One of the more amusing encounters occurred when two Canadian women stopped to ask what we were watching and our conversation turned toward birding and conservation. Eventually they mentioned having seen a story about two Canadians walking the Trans Canada Trail while photographing birds and encouraging others to reconnect with nature. It took a moment before we all realized that the people they were describing were us! It was a wonderful reminder of how travelling with binoculars and cameras can open conversations that might never otherwise occur, even when we are thousands of kilometres from home.
 

The Espiritual Route and the Final Walk to Santiago

 
Beyond Vigo, our pilgrimage gradually turned inland through forests, riverside paths and the increasingly green landscapes of Galicia. Near Pontevedra, we left the main Camino Português to follow the Variante Espiritual, a quieter and more peaceful route associated with the traditions surrounding the arrival of St. James in Galicia. After weeks spent following the Atlantic coastline, the change to shaded woodland paths, rural villages and river valleys was particularly welcome. Moss-covered stone walls, flowering plants, eucalyptus forests and the sounds of birdsong accompanied us as we continued along.

 
The Espiritual route eventually brought us to Vilanova de Arousa, where our pilgrimage continued by boat through the Arousa estuary and along the Ulla River before returning to land for the final approach to Santiago de Compostela. Travelling part of the route by water was an unusual experience after so many weeks spent walking, but it offered another perspective on the natural environments of this remarkable region. By the time we reached Santiago, we had travelled through an extraordinary range of habitats and communities, rediscovered familiar sections of an old pilgrimage route, and explored several entirely new ways of reaching the cathedral.

 
Looking back, one of the most rewarding aspects of our journey was the reminder that opportunities to experience nature are not confined to wilderness areas or remote mountain trails. Some of our richest encounters occurred beside airports, urban parks, working harbours, agricultural fields, seaside promenades and densely populated estuaries. By choosing to travel slowly and remaining curious about the places through which we passed, we found countless reasons to stop, look closer and appreciate the natural world around us.
 

Come Walk With Us in Portugal and Spain

 
For those interested in slow travel, long-distance hiking, birdwatching, pilgrimage and exploring the natural and cultural history of places on foot, we invite you to follow our adventures in Portugal and Spain. Our Rota Vicentina Fisherman's Trail blog details our walk along the spectacular southwestern coast of Portugal, including the landscapes, wildlife, communities and challenges we encountered between Lagos and São Torpes. Similarly, our Camino Português Coastal and Espiritual blog follows the stage of our travels from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, exploring the coastlines, wetlands, forests, historic towns and pilgrimage traditions of northern Portugal and Galicia.

 
Both journals include our daily photographs, observations and experiences along the Way, along with additional reflections and nature-focused entries for readers interested in the birds, wildlife and habitats we encountered. We hope they offer some inspiration to those considering their own walking adventures, or simply looking for another opportunity to discover the world at a slower pace.
 

Returning Our Attention to Canada's North

 
For now, however, our thoughts are returning to the Trans Canada Trail and the journey we have not yet completed. Although Portugal provided us with several wonderful weeks of walking, the northern route from Fort Saskatchewan toward Tuktoyaktuk remains an important part of our original coast-to-coast-to-coast dream. We are looking forward to returning to Canada and reassessing whether conditions will allow us to resume our trek this year.

 
Much will depend on the status of the wildfire situation, community access, transportation, and the practical realities of travelling through a region where distances are enormous, and services are limited. We remain especially concerned about adding to the demands facing communities already coping with evacuations and uncertainty. Unlike the more populated sections of the Trans Canada Trail, the northern route offers relatively few opportunities to leave the trail quickly if conditions deteriorate, and an unexpected emergency could have consequences far beyond our own journey.
 
We do not yet know exactly what the coming months will bring. Our hope is that conditions will improve enough for us to continue north, but we recognize that some decisions cannot be made simply because we are eager to walk. For now, we are grateful for the experiences Portugal has given us, the people we have met, and the opportunity to spend another spring exploring the world on foot.
 
See you on the trail!