Under a Western Sun : Grand Forks to Greenwood

As we headed out of Grand Forks we followed the trail past the heritage train station, where we explored some of the CPR memorabilia after eating dinner last night.  In the morning sunshine we could see the section of old railway remaining in the back, and we saw a Trans Canada Trail information kiosk at the back.  It was closed, but it looked like it might actually have a person inside at certain times to provide trail information.  This is the first such kiosk we have seen so far on this trail!  In most communities few people (even those in regional Information Centres) know of the TCT or its route.

Nearby there was also a trailhead with a lot of information on various local trails in the area.  We were very impressed with the trail spirit in this community, and the sign suggested Grand Forks is proud of its historic railway heritage - with good reason it seems.  In 1899, the railways in Grand Forks included the CPR's Columbia and Western Railway (Boundary Subdivision), the Spokane & British Columbia Railway, and the Kettle River Valley Railway (North Fork Subdivision). In addition, Grand Forks also acted as a hub for the Great Northern Railroad and its lines, including the Vancouver, Victoria & Eastern Railway (Phoenix Branch), the Republic & Grand Forks Railroad (aka the "Hot Air Line"), and the Washington & Great Northern Republic Branch, which is now known as the Great Northern Rail Trail.

As we explored the information provided at the trailhead we also took a moment to look at the log book for trail visitors.  We were thrilled to find an entry left by Mel Vogel and Malo, who passed through on September 21^st, 2022!

The trail took us through a small neighbourhood at the edge of town, and around a pond that was filled with ducks which were mostly too far away to identify with binoculars. After this we followed the rail trail into a corridor of pines and began a long, steady climb.  The gentle but steady ascent continued all the way to Eholt, about 20 km from Grand Forks, before the descent finally began en route to Greenwood.

Today's hike offered a variety experiences, including a paved trail through town, crush stone dust trail, gravel rail trail, sections of more difficult railway ballast, and others parts which were closer to being grassy ATV tracks than a developed route.  There was quite a lot of climbing, a little descending, and a wide river valley. The scenery changed almost as much as the trail conditions, making for an interesting day.

Although the air was cool and crisp when we set out, and it was clearly autumn, the sun was already beginning to warm the hillsides around us.  Its strong rays were bringing the trees alive with Black-capped Chickadees, Dark-eyed Juncos, White-crowned Sparrows, and a surprising number of Red-shafted Northern Flickers.  We even spotted a Black-billed Magpie - a species we haven't seen since leaving Elkford.  Above us a group of Turkey Vultures was circling along the edge of the ridge, and the loud 'cronks' of two Common Ravens echoed across the valley.  Although it was warm and sunny, we noticed that signs along the trail had already been deployed in preparation for winter, indicating only Nordic Skiing was permitted, and we must respect the ski tracks.  Again we were left thinking that we must walk quicker!

For the first few hours of our walk we climbed steadily around the base of Goat Mountain, with a wide, grassy valley spread out below us.  We could see the Granby River snaking along below us, the water so low in its wide, rocky, shallow, banks that in some places it was more puddles than a continuous river.

The 105 km long Granby River is a tributary of the Kettle River, joining it in Grand Forks, and it originates in the Monashee Mountains near the Arrow Lakes.  It was formerly known as the north fork of the Kettle River, but in 1915 it was re-named for the Granby Consolidated Mining and Smelting Company, which operated the Phoenix Mines and a smelter on the east side of the river in nearby Phoenix.

We were very grateful to be climbing in a shaded corridor of pines and conifers, but we enjoyed frequent views of the sun soaked valley below us.  The golden grasses of pastures and hay fields were dotted with small farms and ranches, and a herd of cattle was spread out across the fields below.  Swirling patterns of green, brown, and gold created by past meanders in the river, which had since been cut off from the waterway and overgrown by more lush grasses and shrubs curved across the valley floor.

We climbed steadily upwards in this colourful and textured landscape for several hours.  In some areas the rail trail was quite exposed, and steep walls of rock rose up to our left.  In others the light grey pathway was bordered by brilliant red sumac, which added a fiery warmth to the palette of soft blues from the hills, warm yellows and browns from the grasses, and dark greens of the conifers.

Higher and higher we climbed, skirting around the edge of Goat Mountain.  When we reached a point on the map called Fisherman Station we saw little evidence of the structures or history that once made this an important spot, but a little farther up the hill we came to a trail head where an FSR and several hiking paths crossed the rail trail.  We could hear Fisherman's Creek flowing somewhere down below in the heavily forested valley, and we looked down the steep, earth footpath that was Fisherman's Creek Trail.  Although it was tempting to explore, after a short break sitting on the concrete trail barriers, we continued on.

About 12 km into or walk we came to the Sectionman's Shed. There was a picnic table and pit toilet outside this small, red, wooden cabin, which was perched on the side of the mountain.  When we looked inside we found a long wooden table and wood stove on one side, a small table with a visitor's logbook, and four bunk beds on the other end of the shelter. It looked like a lovely spot to stay, but unfortunately previous occupants had not treated it with respect, and it was in need of some TLC, repairs, and cleaning up.

After signing the logbook we continued on, heading towards the first of two tunnels we passed through today.  The first tunnel wasn't too long (around 200 m), but it was curved in the middle, making it impossible to see through.  We took a few tentative steps inside, letting our eyes adjust to the darkness after the bright sunshine outside, and soon realized we could actually see a faint glow on the rocks ahead.  Not needing to dig out our headlamps, we continued.  As always, I searched the chiselled, rocky ceiling for bats, but had no luck.

Down below us, we could see the tiny community of Niagara stretched out along the river.  In 1898, a Spokane syndicate bought part of the "Gunneysack Jones" Ranch and laid out a town site in anticipation of the coming Columbia and Western Railway.  During railway construction a camp was set up for the workers building the nearby tunnel, and the town experienced rapid growth and prosperity.  In 1900 the station name was changed to Fisherman, and at its peak the town had 12 hotels and a daily stagecoach connecting it to Grand Forks.  However, once the tunnel and railway was completed the town began to fade away.

We continued walking northward for another hour or so, periodically enjoying views out over the Granby River Valley.  By this point the temperatures had climbed into the mid 20's making us thankful for our tunnel of greenery that shielded us from the sun's hot rays. Eventually we came to a second tunnel.  Like the first one, it was impossible to see light at the other end.  This time we opted to take out our headlamps.  This tunnel didn't turn out to be too long either, but even so, walking on the slimy, uneven ground in the center, where it was darkest, would have been more difficult without a little extra light.

Just on the other side of the tunnel we came to the Lime Creek Rest Area, which was located near Hodges Station.  The rest area consisted of two picnic tables that were slowly being reclaimed by the tall grasses and weeds at the side of the trail, and a pit toilet that had been damaged and dirtied, either by vandals or an animal trapped inside. On this side of Grand Forks the infrastructure hasn't been as well maintained as in the section from Castlegar to Christina Lake, and we've really been missing the interpretive panels that provided insight into the history of the area and the families that lived and worked the railway.

Soon afterwards the trail began heading westward.  We continued to climb among forested slopes.  In some places we began to see evidence of logging on the hillside below us, and we could hear vehicles driving along a hidden road below us.  Otherwise it was pretty quiet, except for a convoy of ATV drivers who passed us in groups of twos or threes.  They were going pretty fast on the narrow, winding trail, but they all very kindly slowed right down when they saw us and continued on with a smile and a wave.

As the afternoon wore on we encountered the occasional chipmunk or red squirrel who would scold us as we passed too close to their favourite tree or pinecone cache.  At one point we came to a flock of four Wild Turkeys walking down the trail ahead.  Otherwise the sun dappled pathway was relatively quiet as we climbed and climbed.

As we approached Eholt we came across a small, reinforced tunnel leading down into the ground at the edge of the trail.  I took a look inside, but didn't venture very far, as it seemed to go straight down.  Perhaps the entrance to an old mine shaft?

Around 2 pm we finally arrived at Eholt, which was the summit of the day's climb.  There was a large trail head with a couple of picnic tables, a visitor's logbook, and an information kiosk.  The historical plaque indicated that the junction was named after Louis Eholt, a local rancher.  At one point a large amount of ore extracted at the Wellington, Summit, and Phoenix mining camps passed through the station on its way to the smelter in Greenwood.  However, the steep grades between Eholt and Phoenix (3.4%) led to many runaway trains and terrible accidents.  In 1905 the Great Northern Railway built an alternative route which avoided the steep climb, and shortly afterwards Grand Forks became the main centre.

During its heyday Eholt Station had a water tank, a rail yard, a seven stall roundhouse, and a bunkhouse.  As we took a break at the picnic table we couldn't see much evidence of these past structures.  However, on the far side of the trailhead there was an open area with the remains of a few foundations.  There was also the remains of an old car sitting amidst the grasses as a reminder of days gone by.

From Eholt it was another 11 km to walk to Greenwood.  By this point the sun was already beginning to sink towards the horizon, shining straight into our faces.  As we try to push towards the Pacific the days are growing noticeably shorter and shorter, not helping our efforts to walk even slightly longer distances.  Dusk now falls around 6:30 pm while at the outset of spring and summer we had light until 8 and 9 pm.

It was slightly easier going as we descended towards Greenwood.  The trail ran parallel to Highway 3, which made it more difficult to listen for ATV traffic on our own trail, because we often couldn't tell if passing motorcycles and trucks were beside us or directly behind us. Thankfully the only trail users we saw were three motorbikes whose riders were carefully opening and closing the cattle gates ahead of us, and stopping to move downed trees from the trail.

We crossed Highway 3 and then spent the next few kilometres walking a grassy track down the length of a beautiful green valley.  A small creek babbled along beside us through the tall grasses and cattails, as we made our way through hay fields.  The trail passed through small stands of trembling aspen, their leaves already forming a carpet over the gravel that crunched satisfyingly underfoot as we scuffed through them.  When the breeze blew yellow leaves fell like rain.  Ahead we could see a large flock of brown and white sheep grazing in their pasture, and we could smell wood smoke in the air.

The valley walls were lit by the late afternoon sunshine, the pointed tips of individual conifers standing out against the darker forest behind.  The bright yellow foliage and white trunks of trembling aspens provided colourful accents along the slopes, catching the eye and reminding us it is fall.

At the far end of the valley we passed behind a ranch house and the trail took back into the forest.  The sun was already sinking behind the hills when we came to the 'Tunnel of Flags' on the side of Highway 3 at the edge of Greenwood.  This one-lane tunnel, with was built in 1913 now serves as a heritage landmark at the edge of the town, and it used to be painted with the flags of the world.  Sadly, although the outlines of the faded flags are still somewhat visible on the side of the concrete tunnel facing the highway, they have been mostly covered by newer, less artistic and less organized graffiti.

The bridge had an interesting history that was tied to Greenwood and the Boundary Region of BC.  In the late 1800's and early 1900's electricity was being brought to towns and industries across North America, which created a huge demand for copper.  Copper was found all along Boundary Creek, including at Deadwood, Motherlode, and Phoenix.  Copper smelters were built at Greenwood/Anaconda and at Boundary Falls, and the Canadian Pacific Railway ran lines from Grand Forks to Midway in 1899 to move the precious ore and passengers among the towns that were quickly springing up around the mining camps.

The one-lane, concrete lined tunnel at the edge of Greenwood was built, along with a culvert, to allow the highway and Boundary Creek to pass underneath the new railway.  In 1964 the one-lane tunnel was replaced with a wider, two-lane tunnel and the old one was filled in with earth.  In 1990, the CPR abandoned the railway and began the process of removing the infrastructure along it.  When they took out the railway line they removed the fill above the highway and destroyed the two-lane tunnel, but left the single-lane tunnel to the city as a heritage landmark.

After taking time to explore this landmark we continued on our way to Greenwood.  Half an hour later as we left the pathway and wandered into town we felt a little like we'd just walked onto the movie set of a Wild West movie.  Greenwood began in 1895 when a merchant named Robert Wood opened a general store to serve all the men working in the nearby mines. By 1896 there were three hotels, a general store, a livery stable, two assay offices, a mining broker, an opera house, and a dozen other establishments in the town. Greenwood was incorporated in 1897, and when the Columbia and Western Railway reached it in 1899 it's population had grown to 3,000 people.  Over 100 years later the main street still has 60 colourful heritage buildings that reflect this period.

The BC Copper Company smelter started operations in 1901, processing ore from the Mother Lode Mine and others in the area. Greenwood became the service centre for surrounding mining camps, including Providence, Copper, Deadwood, Wellington, Central, Skylark, and others, and it became the seat of government for the boundary region.  By 1910 the boom had passed and the population dwindled to 1,500.  At the end of WWI the demand for copper dropped, and by 1919 the smelter at Greenwood closed permanently.

As we made our way through town we passed the Nekkei Legacy Park, which was an urban green space located next to the campground.  The park contained a small Japanese Garden and a large wooden gazebo, as well as information plaques dedicated to remembering the Japanese citizens who were interned in Greenwood during WWII.  In 1942 1,200 Japanese Canadians were sent to Greenwood in what became the first Japanese Canadian Internment camp in Canada.  Today there is a friendship park dedicated to this rather unfortunate chapter in Canadian history which was both touching and quite beautiful.

After exploring the memorial park we continued towards downtown, which resembled a gold rush town.  We passed an old style general store, the museum, the old courthouse, a church with a tall white steeple, and a saloon.  To escape the chilly evening temperatures we decided to step into Mama's Pacific Grill, which was full of locals enjoying each other's company and a delicious home cooked Thanksgiving dinner.  On a cold autumn night, after a long day of hiking, having a warm, home cooked meal felt like an enormous gift.

We spent an extra day in Greenwood while we waited for the post office in Midway to open on after Thanksgiving Holidays.  During our stay we visited the Deadwood Junction Café for a delicious breakfast of hot coffee and scones.  We made our way to the Visitor's Center and museum, where the helpful staff provided us with a map of the upcoming trail.  When Sean asked about the Kettle Valley Rail Trail the young man behind the desk earnestly told us that the Trans Canada Trail ended in Midway, where the KVR began.  I had a hard time convincing Sean that he still had to walk on, that the TCT didn't actually end in Midway, that we had to hike onto Victoria, and that he couldn't hug the young man for saying with such authority that the TCT concluded tomorrow. Needless to say Sean was dispirited with my attitude and willingness not to believe the local tourism office’s information.

Of course, we couldn't leave town without also visiting the other bakery, the Copper Eagle Cappuccino & Bakery for coffee and cinnamon buns.  We sat out on the patio enjoying them, even as the warm autumn wind kicked up dust devils on the adjacent road.  With the cold weather, and after nearly 6 months on the trail, it seems like we're always hungry.  While it feels like we should keep moving now, our stay in Greenwood, with its strong gold rush heritage, colourful murals and buildings, and friendly people was a wonderful respite.

See you on the trail!

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