Borders and Transitions : Calgary to Cochrane

It was already a warm, sunny morning when we set out to return to the Trans Canada Trail.  We picked up where we left off, soon arriving back in Bowmont Park.  This 192 ha urban green space is named after the two communities it connects - Bowness and Montgomery.  It features many hiking and cycling trails, access to the river for swimming, rafting, and fishing, various sculptures and artworks, and well manicured and landscaped lawns and flowerbeds.  It also provides essential habitat for birds, insects, and mammals, as well as forming part of the wildlife corridor that spans the city.

 

 

Several people were already out jogging and walking as we made our way through the quiet, peaceful, green park.  Treed slopes rose up around us, and we could hear the sounds of Black-capped Chickadees and White-throated Sparrows in the conifers surrounding us. Since reaching Calgary we've noticed a shift in the landscape.  It no longer feels like we're in the prairies, but more like we're entering the conifer-dominated landscape of the Rocky Mountains and parts of British Columbia. 

 

Similarly it is not just the landscape that has begun to change.  There are now just as many British Columbia plates as Alberta plates on cars.  There are increasingly more cyclists, joggers, campers, and vacationers as we near the Rockies and Banff.  Finally there has been a shift in attitudes from the no-nonsense perspectives of the ranchers and farmers of the prairies to the more carefree lifestyles of the west coast.  It is always stunning to us, to see the shape that the borders and the transitions between regions takes as we near a new province.

 

 

In Baker Park we passed several bronze casts of black bears frolicking and playing, and too soon we reached the far end of the park.  We were intrigued to see a large sign at the water access point with a chart indicating the amount of time it would take to float to various points down the river.  One day we will definitely have to return and try floating down the Bow River! 

 

 

Unfortunately, the point ahead of us where the trail crossed under a busy highway was under construction, but after a few moments of confusion we found the reroute and made our way around the closure.  We wound up on a pathway that bordered a busy highway, and soon found ourselves ducking through a circular metal tunnel that served as an underpass.  We could hear the excited chatter of birds at the far end, and soon found a Barn Swallow hanging out on a sign, posed as if waiting to have its photo taken. 

 

As we began to climb into a very affluent neighbourhood a group of cyclists stopped on the trail to ask about our carts and our adventure.  They gave us some parting advice about the route through the subdivision and some words of friendly encouragement before heading off. 

 

 

Up and up we climbed through 'Tuscany,' a hilltop neighbourhood with what I'm positive would be stunning views of the Rocky Mountains on a clear day.  We passed Tuscany Way, Tuscany Blvd, Tuscany Trail, Tuscany Close, and Tuscany Cres, and began to feel that the homogenization had spread from the street names to the neighbourhood itself. Maintenance crews were out mowing on every street, moving in almost perfect unison.  Yards seemed to have the same plantings, decks, and patio furniture and nothing was out of place or untidy.  Similar looking vehicles, driven by similar looking people drove past us.  It was all very pleasant, immaculately maintained, and upscale, but after a while it began to give us an uneasy feeling, like our unconventional presence was upsetting the symmetry and precise timing of a meticulously planned community. 

 

 

We followed the sidewalks through this quiet neighbourhood, circling gently around until we picked up a straight section of cycling trail that took us up to the very busy highway 1a.  We hadn't been too excited about the prospect of walking along yet another incredibly busy and fast moving highway, but after we navigated the on-ramp, just as Don promised, the shoulders were flat, paved, and quite generous. 

 

 

For the next 11 km (or 2 hours of walking), the 'trail' continued down the shoulder of highway 1a.  While the noise and fumes were as expected, the scenery almost made up for the general stress of the situation.  Beside us ran a valley filled with rolling green hay fields, many of which were dotted by caramel coloured hay bales.  Picturesque old barns stood tucked in among the stands of trees and folds in the landscape.  Behind this idyllic pastoral scene was a backdrop of mountains. It was a very hazy day, so they appeared as soft blue outlines that disappeared in layers into the distance.  Only every once in a while did we spot a snow covered peak that gave us a hint of the depth and scope of the mountain range beside us. 

 

 

The stunningly beautiful ranch land to the south of us was a region known as Bearspaw. This land was originally inhabited by the Niitsitapi or Blackfoot Confederacy, which consists of four tribes: the Siksika, Piegan Blackfeet, Piikani Nation, and Kaninai.  The region was named after Chief Masgwaahsid, head of the Stoney Nations (Nakoda), who was also known as Bears Paw.  Chief Masgwaahsid was one of the delegates who met with representatives of the Queen of England on September 22nd, 1877 to sign Treaty No. 7. 

 

 

At the time, First Nations were facing multiple pressures, including repeated outbreaks of smallpox, dwindling herds of buffalo, and a burgeoning whisky trade at the forts, which was interrupting their trade relations with European settlers.  The efforts of the NWMP to stop the whisky trade that was being spurred on by American settlers may have helped the Queen's representatives gain the partial trust of the First Nations Peoples.  

 

 

In any event, when Treaty 7 was signed, the Canadian government interpreted it as permission to extend the Canadian Pacific Railway west to British Columbia, thereby meeting its conditions of joining confederation.  However, it is now clear that none of the First Nations who signed the treaty understood that they were surrendering their land. In addition, few if any of the terms of the agreement were honoured by the Canadian government.  As a result, many disputes over the land claims and conditions of Treaty 7 are still ongoing today. 

 

 

About 3 km into our walk along Highway 1a we passed a Tim Hortons, and gratefully stopped for a cold drink.  It felt good to have a few minutes away from the hectic pace and incessant roar of the traffic.  After another 4 km we were again able to step off the highway at the Rock Pointe Church in Bearspaw.  At the back of the property we found a very peaceful memorial garden, complete with a few benches, a landscaped flower garden, some shade trees, and a gazebo.  It offered a panoramic view over the stunning river valley, across a field of wildflowers that was teeming with bees and other pollinators. We were amazed how much quieter and more peaceful it was, sitting just a few hundred meters away from the highway rather then being on it, and we savoured those few moments as long as we could. 

 

 

Eventually we continued on down the road, passing more stunning scenery that included lone trees standing sentinel in mowed hay fields, a bright red tractor out mowing, filling the air with the fresh, sweet, smell of cut grass, and a pair of Red-tailed Hawks that took flight from a roadside fence post. 

 

 

As we trekked towards Alberta's foothills it was clear that we were in a transition zone.  Jacked up pick-up trucks with ATVs in the back were slowly being replaced by small cars with kayaks and mountain bikes strapped to the roof.  Some of the houses and ranches began to exhibit the square shapes, and wood, steel, and glass  architecture more typical of homes in British Columbia. The flat, intensively farmed prairie ecozone was slowly being replaced by the montane cordillera, which is one of the most complex ecozones in Canada, including some of the driest, wettest, hottest, and coldest places in the country.  The flocks of Franklin's Gulls and groups of American White Pelicans we've spotted in abundance along the chocolate brown prairie rivers were being replaced by a higher percentage of Ring-billed Gulls and Osprey in the turquoise waters of the glacier fed Bow River. 

 

 

When we finally came to the turn-off for the Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park, we found ourselves looking at a road sign indicating that Cochrane, our destination for the night, was a mere 2 km farther down the highway.  At this point the Trans Canada Trail made an 11 km detour down into the Bow River valley and then back up again.  Standing on the asphalt under the hot summer sun we were momentarily tempted to continue straight on. We decided to stay true to the spirit of the trail, and we certainly weren't disappointed by what we found!

 

 

Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park opened to the public in 2011, making it one of Alberta's newest provincial parks.  The family of Neil Harvie, a prominent Alberta rancher, sold their land to the province for roughly half its market value in 2006, with the stipulation that it be preserved and protected from future development.  Most of the 1,314 ha park is made up of land from the Harvie family, but an additional 21 ha have been added to bring it to its current size.  A unique aspect of the park is that the Harvie family also created the Glenbow Ranch Park Foundation which is tasked with conducting scientific research, monitoring biodiversity in the park, offering educational programming, and promoting development of the park.  As a result, its management is not directed solely by the province, but rather by a non-profit. 

 

 

When we left the highway we turned onto a winding gravel road that descended steeply into the river valley.  Soft looking grassy bluffs covered in pastures, the occasional textured wooden outbuilding or barn, and the odd row of hay bales surrounded us.  Ahead in the distance we could see the hazy blue shapes of the Rockies, and to the east we could still make out the tall grey towers of downtown Calgary.  

 

 

As we approached the gate to the park we heard the tell-tale screech of two Swainson's Hawks circling overhead and were delighted to spot three mule deer quietly standing in the tall reddish golden grasses at the side of the road.  It seemed like one of them was cautiously posing to have its photo taken.  Only afterwards did we realize it was sticking its long pink tongue up its nostril in a decidedly un-photogenic manner. 

 

When we reached the parking lot it was full of cars, and several cyclists and hikers were just setting out to explore the park.  Visitors have a choice of ten trails that create a nearly 30 km long network of pathways across the beautiful green space.  The trail system is in excellent condition, with some routes being paved and accessible to cyclists and those with mobility challenges, while others are gravel surfaced and more hilly.  The trails were clearly marked, and washrooms, picnic tables,  benches, garbage cans, and interpretive plaques were located along their length. 

 

 

 

We stopped at a picnic table with a panoramic view out over the valley, to enjoy two croissants that Sean had thoughtfully brought for us.  After our short break we continued down the paved trail to the Visitor's Centre, which the staff very kindly opened up for us.  There we learned a lot about the park, including that it is home to the Western Bumble Bee, which is threatened in Canada, and the Yellow-banded Bumble Bee, which is a species of Special Concern in Canada.  There is a recovery strategy for these important pollinators, which includes a conservation breeding program run by Wildlife Preservation Canada.  Anyone interested in helping save Canada's pollinators is encouraged to get involved by submitting their observations of bumble bees to BumbleBeeWatch.org, a North American Citizen Science database that helps fill gaps in survey coverage.  There is even a free app you can download for your mobile device to help with identification and data submission in the field! 

 

 

From the Visitor's Centre we continued our descent on the paved trail to a junction at the bottom of the hill.  Here we found a small group of interpretive plaques.   We took a small detour to examine the remains of a wooden building that was located nearby, which turned out to be the old brick factory.  Throughout the park there are many indications of the interesting past this piece of land has witnessed. 

 

 

Archaeological evidence indicates that the land on which Glenbow Provincial Park is now located was used as early as 11,500 years ago by Indigenous groups who camped along the river way.  In the late 19th century it became part of the Cochrane Ranche, which was western Canada's first government leased ranch, being rented for a penny per acre by Senator Matthew Cochrane.  The original ranching effort failed, but in 1893 Joseph and Elizabeth Cochrane came over from England and began a homestead which supported 22 cattle, 7 horses, and 2,000 sheep.  

 

 

When Alberta became a province in 1905 there was a demand for stone to build the legislative and court buildings and the university.  Glenbow then became one of the main sandstone quarries to supply this need.  A town site soon grew up in the area, including a store, a post office, a school, and a railway station.  The quarry was closed in 1912 when the new buildings were completed, but a brick factory was soon opened, where many of the quarry employees then worked.  The brick factory was strategically located alongside the quarry (source of clay) the river (source of water) and the railway (to export the finished products), but it too closed down shortly after WWI.  

 

As we walked through the park we could see evidence of this interesting and varied history. In addition, the park is still managed as an active cattle ranch, and we stopped to watch the herd lazing about outside their barn on the warm sunny afternoon.  As we made our way west, climbing up the bluff, we stopped to watch a long freight train snake its way through the valley beside the meandering river.  We stopped at a small gazebo with a glorious view out over the valley, and it almost felt like we'd been transported back into a different time.

 

 

Eventually we left the paved path behind, and continued on a steep and winding gravel pathway.  We climbed up before descending again into an aspen stand at the bottom of a coulee.  As tiring as that was, we repeated the exercise almost immediately.  Two things became apparent very quickly.  First, my swollen and painful ankle was not doing well on the steep descents.  Second, we needed to lose the extra weight we've been carrying across the flat prairies before we attempt to  cross the Rocky Mountains and those that come afterwards.

 

 

We became increasingly hot and tired as we pulled our heavy carts up the steep sides of the bluff, heading towards a modern subdivision.  In addition to which the smell of campfire began to get stronger as we headed further west previewing the wildfires of British Columbia that we may yet have to contend with. 

 

As we ascended the hillside we discovered that very large homes lined the edge of the bluff, enjoying panoramic views out over the rolling green pastures and meadows of Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park and the grey scars of the adjacent gravel pit.  Strangely, a wooden photo frame on the side of the trail, intended to suggest where to stand to photograph the perfect view, framed the gravel pit front and centre.  Perhaps this was an indication of the value placed on industry and innovation in Alberta.

 

 

A multilevel golf course occupied the slope below the homes, and quite a few people were out enjoying a game on the hot afternoon.  We received several dubious looks from the residents of the neighbourhood and the golfers as we threaded our way through the affluent community.  Up and down we climbed, following a beautiful trail with stunning views, but becoming increasingly grumpy with the hilly and circuitous route. 

 

 

Eventually we descended back down into the town of Cochrane, which is one of the fastest growing communities in Canada, with a population of just over 32,000 people.  It was founded in 1881 as Cochrane Ranche, and was named after Matthew Henry Cochrane, a local rancher.  The town sits at the base of Big Hill, and has become a popular training destination for cyclists, as well as a jump-point for people visiting the Rocky Mountains. 

 

 

When we reached the charming downtown street we immediately noticed a western theme, mixed with outdoor stores, boutique art, craft, and clothing shops, upscale restaurants, and a very popular ice cream parlour.  We made our way to the Rockyview Hotel, a three story wooden structure painted dark grey with red trim, that looked like it belonged in Deadwood.  It was built in 1904, and is one of the oldest operational hotels in western Canada. 

 

 

We had booked a room inside, not realizing just how tiny it would be.  The bathroom was located down the hall, and the rooms were furnished with antiques to provide a taste of what it would have been like in the west in the 1800's.  Our room was reached by way of a very narrow, steep, low-ceiling winding staircase that was most definitely not designed with hiking carts in mind.  After a long, hot, strenuous feeling day on the trail we very nearly despaired at the circumstances.  However, the thoughtful and incredibly helpful and friendly owners did everything they could to make sure it worked, and in the end we reached our room by way of the spacious and modern wooden deck and staircase outside. 

 

 

Later in the evening, as we sat out front of the hotel on the covered veranda, a cyclist with a heavily laden bike pulled up along side of us.  When we asked where he was headed he said he was setting out on Day 1 of a journey down the Continental Divide Trail, and he was heading for the Mexican border.  What an amazing journey!  

 

As we sit here in the cool evening breeze, watching the sun set and listening to the sounds of trains passing through town, it is clear we need a break to rest my ankle, shed some of our gear and equipment, and prepare for the final push west into British Columbia.  In addition I have come to see that the pressures of maintaining the online updates, blog, social media, and the resulting commentary are taking their toll on Sean (the expedition photographer).   Tonight after he went to bed I checked our emails and facebook feed (which he typically maintains) only to discover a number of truly hateful messages about his photography, our outreach, and our pace.  One email went so far as to tell him that his pictures were an "embarrassment to the Trans Canada Trail" and that he "had to stop immediately before he destroyed this amazing pathway by being on it."  None of these critiques has Sean shared with me over the past month as he has clearly internalized the commentary but it has begun to show in him.  Perhaps it is time to take him off the trail, make him sleep, and take a mental health break from the online world.

As such between my ankle, a need to give Sean a break, and our need to switch our gear out I think we are nearing a time when we may well need to take some time off the TCT before pushing forward for the final 65-75 days that it will take us to get to the Pacific Coast.    How long that break will be and where we will end up taking it are matters very much at the front of my mind tonight.

 

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online