Endurance Test: Shawnigan Lake to Langford

This morning began at 6:30 am, when we woke up in our cozy loft room and helped ourselves to a delicious breakfast of granola, yogourt, berries and freshly brewed coffee.  The hour we spent catching up on correspondence, writing notes for the blog, and planning the day's walk felt leisurely and luxurious, standing in direct contrast to the damp, frosty tent that has greeted us for so many mornings these past few months.  At 8 am we went downstairs to meet our incredibly kind and generous hosts, who not only offered to drive us back to the trail, but also packed us a lunch of boiled eggs and fruit!  In addition, during the ride back to the trail, we were gifted with detailed information about the day's hike, which turned out to be spot on.  We are always incredibly grateful for advice from locals, and continually amazed by how precisely some people are able to recall the details of trails they've hiked or cycled in the past.

 

 

Back on the Cowichan Valley Trail, we made our way along the western shore of Shawnigan Lake.  It was a gorgeous walk, but somewhat disappointingly we didn't really see much of the lake.  Surrounded by a pleasant tunnel of enormously tall green trees, we periodically caught glimpses of large homes and cottages on the lake side, crossed small access roads, and occasionally saw evidence of the extensive logging operations that were taking place in the hills farther west of us. Although uneventful, we were grateful for that first stretch of trail, because the flat terrain and relative lack of distractions allowed us to make good progress. As the day progressed and the going got tougher, this turned out to be a real blessing.

 

 

After a short stint along Sooke Lake Road, we picked up the rail trail again and began our final push towards the outskirts of Victoria and the end our east-west trek across Canada.  Momentarily confused as to whether we were actually on the Trans Canada Trail when we left the road, we looked around for some markers.  A sign at the trailhead proclaimed that “This trail is challenging and not suitable for all ages and abilities.  Hike … within your limits.”  Although we hadn't encountered this particular warning yet, the gist of it seemed consistent with the nature of the Great Trail, so we headed off down the treed pathway for our next adventure.

 

 

Almost immediately the wide, gravel path began winding and undulating through steep, forested hills.  Apart from the steep climbs and descents the going wasn't too difficult – just constant in the effort required.  Regardless the trail itself was very well established, maintained and signed. Although the frost of the past few days was absent, it was a cool, overcast morning, which made the climbing much more pleasant.  After spending a few days on a straight rail trail, we felt like the meanders provided a newfound sense of excitement, daring us to discover what lay around the next corner.

 

 

Soon we came to a sign indicating that we were entering property owned by the Malahat Nation.  The Malahat First Nation is a Coast Salish First Nations government of the Saanich People (WSANEC) located on southeastern Vancouver Island.  The Malahat First Nation is also a member of the Naut'sa mawt Tribal Council.  The ancestral languages spoken by the Malahat are Hul̓q̓umín̓um̓ and SENĆOŦEN, and they inhabit land that is extremely rich in natural resources.  The Malahat First Nation is now extremely active in attempting to restore depleted species following years of over fishing and land settlement in the 18th through 20th centuries.

 

 

Moving forward, we realized the trail was bisecting an enormous clear cut.  Huge tree stumps stood like unwanted leftovers in a wasteland of churned up earth, roots, and discarded tree tops just beyond a thin band of greenery bordering the trail.  Signs protesting the proposed creation of a nearby race track suggested that rather than being left to regenerate, the peaceful forest might soon be further transformed by encroaching civilization.  We could only imagine that the B&B's in this region are now facing an uncertain future.  Although the trail itself remained a beautiful green corridor, it was clear we were approaching a developed area.

 

 

Eventually the forest closed in around the trail once again, and we found ourselves crossing several small wooden trestle bridges.  A definite highlight in this section was coming to the colourful and beautifully carved Yos Totem Pole.  This relatively squat totem (around 3 m tall?) was created in 2017 to commemorate completion of the 20 km Malahat Connector section of the Trans Canada Trail, which runs between the south end of Shawnigan Lake at Sooke Lake Road and the Humpback Reservoir in Langford, at the edge of Greater Victoria.

 

 

The central figure is a thunderbird, which stands tall with a salmon under each wing.  A Sasquatch stands on the opposite side of the pole, gazing off into the forest.  The Yos Totem Pole was the result of collaboration between master carvers Moy Sutherland Jr. from the Tia-o-qui-aht First Nation (Tofino), John Marston from the Stz’uminus First Nation (Chemainus), and various Malahat Nation youth.

 

 

After this point the trail began to climb in earnest as we made our way up toward the Stebbings Road Park and Community Forest.  The constant climbing was tiring, but we were trekking through gorgeous coniferous forest, and the views began to open up as we ascended.  The sun was making a concerted effort to break through the lines of fluffy grey clouds that streaked the sky as we approached Stebbings Rd.   

 

 

Although our attention was captured by the constant climbing, and the views that were promised by our elevated position, the smaller things also vied for attention – like the huge banana slugs slowly slithering across the trail!

 

 

Above us a pair of Bald Eagles perched in a tree, their plaintive, keening voices carrying through the still, expansive landscape.  They were joined by the distant calls of a group of Common Ravens whose voices echoed across the hills around us.  A little farther along we came to a pair of these elegant looking and highly intelligent black birds arguing with each other over a morsel of food.  Somehow their voices seemed to be an inseparable part of this landscape.

 

 

We crossed the paved road, which seemed to lead up into a neighbourhood of large and well spaced homes that must have enjoyed fantastic views.  At this point the trail began switch-backing in earnest.  As we made our way steadily up the Malahat Ridge we soon began to enjoy stunning views out over the Juan de Fuca Strait towards the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State.  Across a blanket of thick fluffy clouds that hovered over the waterway below us, the snow capped peaks of a mountain range poked up, appearing in great detail.  It was impossible not to take a few moments to admire the stunning scenery.

 

 

When we emerged onto the road again we had a choice – to follow the cycling route on the paved surface of the road, or to divert onto a narrow footpath that continued to climb steeply up a forested ridge.  We decided to keep true to the walking trail, and soon found ourselves scrambling up a very steep slope.  Patches of trees were interspersed with tall grasses and large exposed boulders.  As we huffed and puffed our way up the hill the phone rang.  It was my father, asking about final arrangements to come meet us Victoria, BC the day after tomorrow!  This was extremely exciting news, but I felt a little like Walter in ‘The Secret Life of Walter Mitty’ when he tries to answer his phone while climbing in the Himalayas and says ‘I’m gonna keep this short. I have to make oxygen choices.’ 

 

 

Walter Mitty "Oxygen Choices"

 

After our short, steep scramble we emerged onto an open plateau from which the views were truly spectacular.  It felt like we were perched on top of the world, looking down on a landscape partially hidden by the clouds below us.  Slowly, we continued on down the forested gravel trail, soon passing through a set of tall red metal gates outside a water treatment plant and coming to a welcome sign for the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Park. 

 

 

The Sooke Wilderness Park consists of two separate parts that are located on either side of the Goldstream catchment, and it provides a buffer to the Greater Victoria Area water supply catchment.  The 13 km of trail in the park offer fantastic opportunities for hiking, cycling, and in places horseback riding, but they are classified as challenging, partially because they include grades of up to 16% and immersion in wilderness.

 

 

We followed the steep and winding wide gravel pathway through the woods, taking note of signs warning of ‘limited visibility’ and ‘avoid excessive speed’ on the steep slopes.  Although we were already in the outskirts of the Greater Victoria Area, we felt like we were immersed in remote wilderness. Enormously tall trees bordered the trail on both sides, and no sounds of civilization reached us among the lush, mossy, forested, rolling hills. I am not sure we have ever approached a larger city in Canada in such a natural region or beautiful fashion!

 

 

After a few kilometres of trekking through this larger-than-life landscape, we were in for a huge treat!  A burst of silent, soft movement flashed through our peripheral vision, bringing us to a sudden stop.  At first we couldn’t tell where the movement had come from, or even be sure we hadn’t just imagined it.   Even though we both kept a sharp lookout as we proceeded cautiously around a curve on the trail we were only a few meters away when we suddenly spotted a lovely Barred Owl perched on a branch overhanging the path!

 

 

We crept along, trying to give it space and avoid disturbing it.  When we felt we were a respectable distance away Sean got out his zoom lens and took a few photos.  As we watched, the majestic owl suddenly huddled up, pulled its head in, ruffled it feathers, and then abruptly coughed out a pellet!  The look of disgust on its feathered face afterwards when it screwed shut its eyes and shook its head was priceless.  Perhaps it was a little gross, but what a rare moment in the life of an owl to witness in nature! 

 

 

Filled with excitement by this very special encounter, we set off down the trail once again.  Soon we arrived at the 41 m suspension bridge over the Goldstream River.  The crossing felt relatively stable as we made our way along, 6 m above the waterway, which resembled a small stream more than an active river.  The waterway got its name during a mini gold rush in the 1860’s, when it was dubbed Gold Stream.

 

Just past the suspension bridge was a small wooden viewing platform overlooking a tiny waterfall in Waugh Creek.  It was a wonderfully mossy spot, with very beautiful scenery, but the stream was almost completely hidden by the dense vegetation surrounding it.

 

 

Not long after this point we came to an obstacle that had been causing us some worry throughout the day.  We knew that a trail closure lay ahead which was the result of a recent landslide and an unstable slope.  Since there wasn’t really any official route around the obstruction, we had been desperately hoping we would be able to make our way around it on the abandoned railway tracks.  Luckily for us, the ‘closure’ was nothing more than a slightly damp 50 m section of trail at the foot of a slide, and it was clear many people had walked and ridden their bikes straight through it on the abandoned railway tracks.  We very happily followed in their footsteps and easily made our way around the obstacle.

 

 

Another section of very hilly, windy trail eventually took us around the Humpback Reservoir, and then out to a parking lot near the water filtration plant. The small forested reservoir looked like it could be a good place for waterfowl, but with the exception of two skittish Mallards at the far side of it, we didn’t spot any.

 

 

An historic plaque by the water treatment plant informed us that the land we were standing on had once been occupied by a 30 acre farm owned by the Payne family.  Their house, which was called ‘Mountain View’ enjoyed a spectacular view of nearby Mount Wells.  From 1913-1915 the house became a social hub for the workers who were building the reservoir.  Although the house no longer stands, the reservoir and mountain are now part of a huge protected area which acts as a buffer for Victoria’s drinking water supply.

 

 

The parking area was also the trailhead for the Summit Trail through the 123 hectare Mount Wells Regional Park.  This wilderness area sits on the edge of the strangely named ‘Sea to Sea Green Blue Belt’ Apparently the 325 m summit offers spectacular views over Juan de Fuca Strait, Victoria, and the Sooke Hills.  As it had been a very long day already, we didn’t stop to check it out.

 

 

Instead, we followed the road into the outskirts of Langford.  Even so close to the end of our hike, we found construction, when the sidewalk was partially closed during construction of a new neighbourhood.  We soon diverted into a forested area on a paved cycling route, which took us past the Jordie Lunn Bike Park, and along the edge of the Langford Gravity Zone and Nature Park. 

 

 

As the light began to fade, we made our way along the cycling trail that wove onward through several parks and green spaces.  As we walked to the hotel in the gathering darkness the realization hit us – we have now reached the outskirts of Victoria.  The end of what once seemed like an incomprehensibly long east-west journey is now so very, very close. Only about 25 km away in fact.  It is a completely surreal feeling!

 

Tomorrow we will - fittingly for a #Hike4Birds - follow the Galloping Goose Trail into Victoria!

 

Tonight will be filled with lots of reminiscing, lots of old stories, and lots of memories.  Time and distance have flown past so quickly since Cape Spear and St. John’s Newfoundland.

 

 

St. John's NFLD, 2019 Day 1 Trans Canada Trail

 

See you on the trail!

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