Push and Pull : Exploring Banff

Today we took a rest day in order to explore as much of the area around the town site of Banff as we could.  According to Parks Canada – Banff at 1,383 meters elevation, it is the highest town in Canada, and Lake Louise, which is within Banff National Park, is the highest permanent settlement at 1,536 m.  Banff is located within the most visited National Park in Canada, drawing around 4.6 million visitors every year.

Some of the features that draw international visitors include the stunning mountain scenery, with the distinctive shapes of Castle Mountain and Mount Rundle being recognized around the world.  The improbable turqouise colour of the glacier fed lakes, like Lake Louise also impress.  Their bright colour is caused by ultra-fine particles of rock that are eroded by glaciers and suspended in the water. Banff National Park also features more than 1,500 km of trails which offer hikers the ability to view wildlife, including elk, moose, grizzlies and black bears, wolves, mountain sheep and goats, and of course birds. There are also more than 1,000 glaciers in Banff National Park - remnants of the huge ice mass that covered all but the highest summits around 200,000 years ago.

Despite all of this amazing beauty however, our brief sojourn into town for dinner last night had left us with the same mixed feelings and competing impulses that we now often have when we trek through larger towns and cities that we visit while hiking the Trans Canada Trail. 

On one hand you are excited to explore someplace new, and to see the wonders that each region offers, while on the other you are daunted by the rush and noise of the urban jungle you face.     This sense of uncertainty is definitely nothing new to us – cities which are places we once thought of bastions to resupply in, relax in, and clean up in have transformed into challenging centres of expectation, judgment, noise, and unique frustrations.   Cities are - for us - often harder to navigate as the TCT intersects with mazes of urban pathways.  They are also often places where we are clearly different and as a result frequently unwanted by many, and they are sites where costs increase to unreasonable levels.

Don’t get me wrong, I won’t deny the benefits of entering into a city – especially after a long trek in nature.  Showers, the chance to really clean clothes, sleeping in a bed…and did I mention showers?  Each of these are amenities that at times you can begin to fantasize about on a dusty concession road, muddy trail, or after a day of trekking in the pouring rain (or hail on a mountain top).  Yet the cost of all of these conveniences comes in the form of the unrelenting noise of cars in the streets, the rush of city sidewalks, and the hustle of trendy stores each of which can be overwhelming after a long period on your own.

As always finding the balance between the pull of the natural wonders of a region and the push of modern life and the bustle of business activities has been a challenge in venturing across some of the nation’s largest cities and most popular travel destinations.  In Banff, by day’s end, the contrasts between the pull and push factors could not have been more evident.

The sky was just turning a beautiful pink and yellow as we got up to make breakfast.  To our complete delight, as we were enjoying our morning coffee a small group of about six elk came wandering through our campsite! They were feeding on the small shrubs, striping the leaves off with their teeth in long sweeping motions.  One poor female seemed to be having a sneezing fit that lasted well over half an hour!

After this amazing encounter we set off, walking through the campground and down the gravel path running beside Tunnel Mountain Rd, heading down into the town.  The footpath traced the forested slope, and it was already full of people walking, cycling, and horseback riding.  Even so, we spotted a lone male elk peeking out from among the trees.

Just over 1.5 km from the campground we came to a popular viewpoint along the Hoodoos Trail.  Against a spectacular backdrop of mountains, below us meandered the gorgeous, turquoise waters of the Bow River.  An elk stood posed halfway across the waterway, its legs creating foamy white rapids in the rushing waters.

Just below us were a group of strange rock formations, endearingly named hoodoos.  These geological features are formed when rain, snowmelt, wind, and time wear away at soft cliff edges, creating deep and narrow gullies.  Sometimes caps of sod or harder rock material protect small areas from erosion, acting like umbrellas for the soil underneath.  The result are columns of free-standing earth with interesting and unusual shapes.  The hoodoos in Banff had thin, almost pointed tops, whereas the ones we've seen previously in Dinosaur Provincial Park had an almost mushroom-like shape.

Across the gorgeous, forested river valley we could also see the gondola, which takes park visitors to the summit of Sulphur Mountain.  From the top visitors enjoy views of six different mountain ranges, the town site of Banff, and the Bow River Valley.  Unfortunately tickets are expensive, so we opted not to take advantage of that opportunity.

From our vantage point we could also see the world famous, castle-like Banff Springs Hotel.  When this 250-room chateau-style hotel opened in 1888, it was the largest hotel in the world.  It was built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in an effort to attract wealthy travellers from Europe to bathe in the nearby hotsprings. The cost of blasting the railway line through the Rocky Mountains had been considerable, and this investment was intended to help repay the debts incurred.  As the plaque outside reads “Since we can’t export the scenery we shall have to import the tourists!”  The hotel is now a National Historic Site, and the cost of staying there tonight would have been between $1,523 and $2975 a night.

From the viewpoint we followed the forested pathway down to the town site.  One of the highlights along the way was first hearing rough, loud, calls and then spotting a Clark's Nutcracker.  This species was another first for our #Hike4Birds! Almost as exciting was a small group of Red Crossbills feasting on pinecones nearby.

And so as we walked into Banff – perhaps one of Canada’s most renowned tourist destinations and recreational sites – and trekked past the parking lot to the town sign (so people can park to take selfies), spotted the legions of tourists all dressed in these season’s fashions walking down the main commercial street filled with familiar store names that familiar sense of not belonging once again set in.  Here again it was increasingly clear that our time in nature, even brief periods in nature that simply stretch between town sites and community campgrounds as the Trans Canada Trail often does, has changed us.

We walked past line ups of people waiting to take pictures at ‘ironic locations’, we passed people on the street who were shuffling along only looking at their cell phones (in the middle of the Rockies!), and trekking past premier clothing stores like Canada Goose, Roots, Fjallraven, and Lululemon full of people shopping (in the middle of the Rockies!). Who needs a sweater that says “I went to Banff” when you can actually explore Banff?

Street after street we were surrounded by people in perfectly clean designer versions of our hiking clothes, perfectly clean white running shoes, those who strutted shirtless wearing only sports bras and spandex clothes, and those who were dressed head to toe in brand name gear.  With our dusty and worn clothes we clearly don’t fit in amid the trendy, fashionable and those striving to look sporty.  As a result most tourists gave us a wide berth and most store owners eyed us carefully throughout the day.

Throughout it all I was forced to ask if there is perhaps something wrong with us now?  I wonder what am I missing out on that everyone else knows?  Why don’t I fit in anymore?  Or do I even want to fit in here?  These types of questions would play around in my mind throughout the day with no answers presenting themselves. 

And so, amid this ocean of people and standing in one of the most naturally beautiful locations we have yet visited in our trek across Canada a voice had begun to whisper the same questions : How long are we here for?  When are we back on the trail?  When are we back in the wilderness? The push factors had begun to take over.

Despite these feelings we set ourselves to exploring Banff.  The Trans Canada Trail here has two spurs in the town site of Banff, and we ventured down both.  First, we headed out down the westward spur, stopping at the colourful Cascade of Time Gardens along the way.  This quiet oasis features gardens that are terraced into the hillside.  Winding pathways and rock stairways meander through tall pines, landscaped and very colourful flower beds, and flowing water gardens.  Several gazebos and wooden shelters are scattered throughout, providing refuge from the hot sun or the rain.

We very much enjoyed wandering around the gardens, marvelling at the huge numbers of bees, drone flies, butterflies, and other pollinators that were feasting on the flowers. 

After visiting the gardens we continued down the wide, treed, crushed stone dust trail to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, which is really where so much all began.  This site claims to be the origins of both Parks’ Canada and the National Parks system as well as the Sentier National.

The Sentier National which we have crossed and followed in New Brunswick, Quebec, Alberta and various other locations across Canada lays claim to being Canada’s first national pathway system.  It was initiated in 1977 and has developed since.  Yet here in Banff is where it’s origins lay. A wonderful discovery.

In addition at the entrance to the Cave and Basin National Historical Site there was a directional post indicating that the distances between Banff and various national parks across Canada. For instance the stated distance between us and Gros Morne NP which we presented at in 2019 was a mere 3994 km while Cape Spear Lighthouse NHS where we stared this epic journey 4 years ago was only 4438 km away.  Frustrating to cover this distance our route on the Trans Canada Trail has led us to trek nearly 12,000 km to get here.  One has to wonder whether this makes us adventurous or daft?

When the Pacific Railway reached Banff in 1883, three railway workers were prospecting for minerals in the area when they stumbled into an unexpectedly warm bog.  They followed the warm waters to their source, finding the hot mineral springs that both soothed and healed.

Realizing the value of their find, the three men quickly claimed the land and began charging people 10 cents to bathe in the thermal waters.  Other prospectors soon laid claims to the land as well, and legal battles began.  However, the government of John A. MacDonald had no intention of signing away the rights to the springs.  In 1885, two years after the 'discovery' of the springs, the government set aside 16 square kilometres around the hot springs.  It is from this act that Banff National Park was formed.

Today the Cave and Basin National Historic Site features an interpretive centre with exhibits that tell the story of National Parks across Canada.

It also features a boardwalk loop that takes visitors past the thermal stream and the hole that the railway workers lowered themselves down into to discover the pools below.  Visitors can also walk through an underground tunnel to see the cave from below, which is extremely cool.

At the centre of it all is the pool deck, built around a small thermal pool.  People used to bathe in the hot springs, but it is now illegal to even touch the waters, because they are home to the Banff Springs Snail, which is an endangered species.  This air-breathing freshwater mollusk is unique in that its shell curls around to the left instead of the right, as other snail shells in this hemisphere typically do.

Parks Canada is trying to protect the species through education, law enforcement, closure of the hot spring to humans, and scientific research.  Despite the research and recovery program, snail numbers periodically fluctuate between 1,500 and 15,000 snails.  At high points the entire population would fit inside a 1 liter milk carton, and at low points it would fit into an ice cream cone.

After visiting the hot springs and seeing the endangered snails, we stopped by the Internment Exhibit, which is located inside a wooden building adjacent to the thermal pool.  The exhibits inside were dedicated to telling the stories of individuals who had been interred in Canada during WWI.

When WWI began in 1914, there was a fear that immigrants from enemy countries, including Germany, Austria-Hungary, and later Turkey and Bulgaria might cause trouble.  Those who had yet to become naturalized British subjects of Canada were labelled 'enemy aliens.'

In total, Canada interred 8,579 men between 1914 and 1920.  Many were held in work camps in Canada's hinterland.  During the war the federal government reduced the National Park's budget.  In response, the National Parks Commissioner, J.B. Harkin, obtained permission to use internees as low-cost labour.  Much of the work done to create Banff, Jasper, Mount Revelstoke, and Yoho National Parks, as well as other sites across Canada, was done by these internees.

After visiting the Internment Exhibit we walked the 2.6 km Marsh Loop, which circles a wetland filled from hot springs under Sulphur Mountain.  We were tickled to learn that the trail is only open to hikers during certain parts of the day, and the rest of the time it is used by horses.

It is known as a great place to go birding, but on this hot afternoon there wasn't a lot of activity.  We did manage to see a Spotted Sandpiper on the banks of the turquoise Bow River, and a Warbling Vireo hopping around in the foliage at the edge of the trail.  We also spotted a female elk munching quietly on the deciduous foliage at the edge of the trail, and we enjoyed watching an abundant, diverse, and colourful group of dragonflies diving and swooping through the late afternoon sunshine.  Overall, this short trail was a wonderful place to connect with nature.

 

 

During our explorations of Banff we also walked the other spur of the Trans Canada Trail, which leads out to the Banff Springs Hotel.  We headed out of town along the Art in Nature Trail.  The wide crushed stone dust pathway traced the borders of the Bow River under a canopy of very tall, majestic, huge, old spruce trees.  Along the path there were 45 art exhibits created by local artists.

We greatly enjoyed the diversity of different pieces, which included metal silhouettes of wolves and other animals, bird houses occupied by coloured glass birds, tree cookies painted with colourful landscapes, and collages by elementary school kids showcasing the things they loved about nature and their community.

Eventually the well-used trail began climbing on a wooden staircase.  From the top we had a lovely view down onto the rushing waters of Bow Falls.  This relatively small but very impressive waterfall sits at the junction between the Spray River and the Bow River, and its close proximity to both the Banff town site and the Banff Springs Hotel make it a very popular tourist destination.

We walked past the falls and then climbed up past the famous and iconic hotel to the Spray Lakes Trail-head.  This is where we will set out from on the Great Trail tomorrow, as we continue our journey back down south towards the Elk Pass and the border with British Columbia.

When we returned to the town site we spent a couple hours sitting in a café, chosen because it had tables with plugs where we could recharge the battery packs while we worked.  As we sat there we watched the town fill up with people arriving for the long weekend.  We noticed that there were generally two kinds of tourists - those who were muddy, sun burnt, and who clearly were into outdoor sports and recreation, and those who came with expensive designer clothes, cars, and jewellery, and were there to be pampered while enjoying the spectacular scenery. It made us reflect on the different ways people interact with and enjoy time in nature.

Recharged and ready to explore some more we headed out to the Fenland Marsh loop trail, a short pathway at the northern edge of Banff that we hoped would provide for some birding opportunities, while enjoying the shade of the forest as well as avoiding the growing long-weekend crowds

As we left the Fenland’s hiking loop to return downtown we noticed that crowd of tourists had gathered blocking the busy roadway in their effort to mob several elk and to take pictures of them.  A few were even foolish enough to try to take selfies close to these large and quiet but very powerful animals.  When the elk would jump or snort at one of these cell phone toting persons who had gotten too close everyone in the crowd would nervously giggle, move back, and the process would begin again with yet another person testing the patience of mother nature.  While the long weekend would clearly bring many to nature to enjoy amazing experiences it would also clearly pressure nature in the process.

As we turned to leave the trailhead an older gentlemen on an e-bike racing down the pathway and screaming at people to move ran full speed into Sean.   Everything happened in a flash, the bike going up Sean’s right leg, the man yelling and then cursing at him for ruining his long weekend”.  Almost immediately after striking Sean the man got back on his bike and without a word of apology or concern for hitting him rode off now more interested in the elk on the walkway nearby.  Noticeably no one lost focus on the elk or offered to help.  Shaken Sean slowly stood up, his chin cut open, his right leg marked with a red tire mark up it and his right wrist and two of his fingers were already purple and swelling.  I picked up his camera and helped Sean to a place to sit in the grass on the side of the trail as well dressed tourists raced by on their rental bikes and jockeyed to take pictures of the wandering elk.

I offered to call a taxi and take us back to the campground.  Sean didn’t answer.  I offered to help him to a walk-in clinic or the hospital.  Again he wouldn’t answer.  And so we sat for 30 minutes, then an hour.  Finally he got up and said “the end was never going to be easy, it always going to be harder.  Each day from here on out is going to get harder and harder.  The only thing to do is move forward.” Quietly he took his camera from me, reclipped it to his backpack and we continued on.  Slowly and amid a throng of bike bells and rude shouts for pedestrians to move off the trail we walked back into downtown toward the nearest bus stop.

As darkness began to fall we got back on the Roam bus and returned to the campground.  When we got off we were stunned to see quite a few ladies in stilettos and evening gowns getting on the bus at the campground to go into town.  We have never brought such finery on a camping trip, or seen anyone else do so until now.  Once again it was clear to us that even here in the campground at Banff we do not fit in and so though we have a campsite reserved for a third day we know it is time to walk out and move on leaving these frustrations on the trails.

Despite the tribulations of the day and our own self days Banff is a wonderful place to visit, and we barely scratched the surface of what it has to offer.  However, as more people flooded in for the long weekend we found the crowds to be a little overwhelming and so having repurchased our food supplies for the coming week we were glad to return to our tent at the campground. 

It will be good to return to the wilderness for the next stretch of trail. 

“These mountains you are carrying you were only supposed to climb”

Najwa Zebian