Reflecting on the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta

The Trans Canada Trail in Alberta  

  
In 2022 we resumed our trek across Canada along the Trans Canada Trail into the province of Alberta.  This would be our third prairie province and the ninth province that we would trek between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans on the Great Trail.

In Alberta the national pathway offers hikers, cyclists, horseback riders, cross-country skiers, snowmobilers and ATVers over 3000 km of trails and water ways to explore.  Here the TCT is unique in that it has several major routes which branch across the province taking trail users north, south, east and west.  In addition to which, Alberta is exceptional, in that it offers hikers and cyclists a choice of two spurs that lead two different Oceans - the Pacific and the Arctic.

The first takes trail users some 290 km from the Saskatchewan-Alberta border to a juncture north of Fort Saskatchewan.  The second ventures approximately 907 km northward from north of Fort Saskatchewan to the Alberta-BC border.  The third is a paddling route beginning the 830 km waterway to the southern boundaries of the Northwest Territories before continuing another 2244 km to the Arctic Ocean 

While the fourth route, which is what we walked, spans more than 1200 km from the Saskatchewan border to Edmonton, before venturing southeast to Red Deer and then down Calgary, prior to turning north and west to Banff.    An itinerary which reiterates a fact that has been true since the Atlantic Ocean – namely that Trans Canada Trail certainly does not take the most direct of routes.  

"A Little Bit of Everything"

In Alberta some of Canada’s best sections of the Trans Canada Trail have been developed by communities, regional volunteers, and Alberta TrailNet. The results of their amazing efforts over the past 30 years have transformed abandoned railways, routes through city green spaces, historic ranches, and logging roads into world class hiking trails.  Beyond the ATV routes, urban pathways, provincial parks and roadways that comprise the Great Trail in Alberta, hikers and cyclists are able to venture across open prairies, through the boreal forest, past sprawling cityscapes, and over Canada’s Rockies.  

Indeed so varied are the possible experiences in and across Alberta that we have come to see that it is a province that has a bit of everything in the Canadian experience, and as a result gives way to a vast spectrum of possibilities along the Trans Canada Trail.   

“Only Highways and Roadways”

 
Now, before reflecting on the TCT  in Alberta we must admit (as a full disclaimer) that prior to heading out, with only a few exceptions, we had been warned by both trail and nature groups across the country to brace ourselves for “a long, depressing, and undeveloped run through the province.”

Emails detailed walking through an inundated landscape “filled with oil derricks” and with “little or no wildlife” to be found.  Other communication detailed the province’s lack of support for the national trail which had subsequently led to “almost no development in the province since the early 1990s”.  

While another disappointed person, who had recently cycled the TCT across Alberta, stated that it was a region “filled with only highways and roadways and very little real trail.”  Needless to say before setting out we were not filled with much enthusiasm.  

These attitudes about the purported state of the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta were matched by our own concerns, as naturalists, about what we would find across the province.  As, for whatever reason, we have both previously only associated Alberta as either being oil fields at one end of the spectrum or places like Jasper and Banff at the other. 

Reconsidering Alberta

 
Happily however these advance warnings and our own presumptions turned out to be COMPLETELY WRONG.  The natural wonders were stunning.  The wildlife was plentiful.  In addition to which both the communities and peoples of Alberta were extraordinarily welcoming.  The open landscapes of Alberta allowed us the opportunity to explore the best of both the prairies and the Rockies.   
 
While there is no denying that parts of the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta do send users along busy roadways taken as a whole the province’s trails and experience are certainly not defined by these sections.  

Meeting friends along the Trans Canada Trail

Similarly, while one does trek past oil derricks, industry and large parcels of ranchland the region is nonetheless a stunning landscape filled with terrific wildlife and birding opportunities. 

In short, while there are challenges en route, the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta is a wonderful experience that is actively continuing to develop and improve.  Standing as proof that one should always approach life and travel with an open mind and a willingness to challenge and change one’s opinion.  

Prairie Exhaustion

 
Walking into Alberta, there is almost no way to convey our level of exhaustion.  After more than 5000 km of mostly rural concessions and country roads posing as “trail” throughout the prairies we were ready for a change.  

Stepping out of Manitoba and Saskatchewan and into Alberta our largest concern (actually we were terrified) was that the long succession of dusty gravel roadways still might not end until we were west of Calgary – a distance of almost 1000 km further along the Trans Canada Trail.  

Alberta's Iron Horse Trail

 
Thankfully, only two days into the province, relief came in the form of the Alberta'a Iron Horse Trail – an ATV, horseback riding, hiking, and cycling route that wove 176 km from Heinsburg to Waskatenau.  Developed between 1999 and 2001 from a route used in the 1800’s by Red River Carts, and later used as a railway, the Iron Horse has transformed into a long distance path ideal for backcountry trekking.

 
Along the maintained gravel route, the landscape transitioned from the prairies to mixed forests and wetlands, and we enjoyed regular staging areas and information plaques along the way.  En route, the Iron Horse Trail took us through the communities of Elk Point, St Paul, Spedden, Vilna, and Smoky Lake, enabling us to resupply and find accommodations, which provided a welcome break from camping.  In addition, the Iron Horse also took us to amazing natural wonders and important birding areas.  

Along the Iron Horse we found numerous ponds, small lakes, and streams where we spotted a variety of gulls, shorebirds, and waterfowl, including Wood Ducks, Red-necked Grebes, and Double-crested Cormorants.

Attractions and Challenges of the Iron Horse Trail

 
In addition to excellent birding, we also got a chance to learn about Canadian railway history, visit historic CN water towers and railway stations, walk the idyllic Main Street of Vilna, and take selfies near some of Canada’s most notable roadside attractions including the UFO Landing Pad in St. Paul, the world’s largest Mushrooms in Vilna, and the Giant Pumpkins in Smoky Lake. 

 
While this trail is promoted as a hiking and cycling trail there is no denying that it is – in many sections – more of an ATV tract than a walking pathway.  This was most obvious in the sandy stretches, where the dunes and the trail bed had been completely churned up by the wheels of 4X4s.  While the ATV drivers we met were always cheerful, friendly, and helpful, we could see how sharing the trail might have been a challenge for cyclists, given how soft and torn up it was in some areas.  Regardless the Iron Horse served as a wonderful stretch of pathway, it was one of our favorites across the Prairies.

Fort Saskatchewan

 
At the conclusion of the Iron Horse we followed the Victoria and Athabasca Landing Trails to meet with the urban pathways of Fort Saskatchewan and the City of Edmonton.  

 
Generally speaking, walking into a large city and its suburbs is often both an unnerving and unappealing undertaking.  Not just for the time you spend away from people on a thru hike, but because the route trails usually take entering into urban centers are generally less than scenic.   Typically pathways are forced to take the routes available such as weaving through dodgy industrial stretches or along the side of busy highways.   This seems to be a reality whether on the Trans Canada Trail or on the Camino de Santiago.  Yet coming from the north following the Athabasca Landing Trail, through Fort Saskatchewan, Strathcona, and the River Valley pathway across the City of Edmonton the Trans Canada Trail was in fact wonderful.

Trails of the City of Edmonton

From Fort Saskatchewan heading south we ventured along regional waterways and navigated the provincial capital city of Edmonton.  Here the Great Trail was one of the best developed pathways in keeping us off road, in terrific green spaces, and connected to nature.  

In fact most of the time we were on the 35 km section of the TCT in Edmonton, we felt as though we were hiking in a provincial or national park rather than one of the nation’s largest cities.    In Edmonton the Great Trail spans from Sherwood Park in the North-East weaving through urban green spaces along the Saskatchewan River Valley, past the Alberta Legislature, the University of Alberta and Fort Edmonton before returning to the countryside south of the city.   

All in all Edmonton has developed a stunning network of paths which facilitates walking, jogging, and cycling with regular rest stops, picnic areas and parks to enjoy.  

Ring Roads and Roadways

 
Unfortunately however, the glories of the trails of the city of Edmonton ended entirely at its southern boundaries and with them the Trans Canada Trail simply disappeared.  Having trekked from the Iron Horse to the southern boundaries of the province’s capital city on wonderful trail we met with horror.  Here developed pathways of the Great Trail directed users to cross Edmonton’s ring roads, over a series of on and off ramps and along a busy highway that had no place for anyone to trek.   

Beyond this nightmarish stretch the Trans Canada Trail began a 525 km stretch from Edmonton to Wetaskiwin, Lacombe, Red Deer, and onward to Innisfail, Acme, and Irricana to the boundaries of Airdrie on the outskirts of Calgary.  Much of this stretch reminded us of our venture along the busy highways of Northern Ontario, and our trek across the prairies with a route that wove west, then east, then south, then west again, boxing along dusty rural concessions, busy roadways and roaring highways with little to indicate that it was part of the TCT.

 
The dangerous realities of this section of the TCT were reflected by the fact there were absolutely no signs for the national trail, and that twice police stopped and questioned us about hiking where we were.  The coup de grace of this stretch came when we were almost hit by a police cruiser as the distracted officer – who was more focused on his phone than driving - raced along one of these speedways and into a ditch just a few feet behind us.

Sadly, and in so many ways this stretch – accounting for 1/3 of the trail in southern Alberta – is best described in the words of an RCMP officer who, in stopped and questioned us as we stepped onto the side of a busy roadway and observed “it is crazy to send people down this, it’s just gnarly”.

Meadowlark Trail and Stunning Results

 
With all of that said the run between the cities of Edmonton and Airdrie were not without their benefits.  In particular we enjoyed the quiet communities that we were fortunate to be able to visit, the kindness of the peoples living there, and the 20 km reprieve from the roadway on a newly established pathway. 

The Meadowlark Trail was officially opened - about two weeks after we hiked it - in 2022 and spans 10 km between the communities of Beiseker and Irricana. This hard packed gravel walking and cycling path was built on a decommissioned CP rail line and was later donated to Alberta Trailnet.  It provides a terrific off road link between these two communities that makes a wonderful stretch to venture along.

In addition, the Meadowlark has been superbly designed, providing easy access at each end in each community as well as regular information and signage along the route.  The developers and communities have also done a wonderful job landscaping along the trail from end to end creating a trail that users can enjoy a quiet day along.  Beyond its amenities this section of the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta demonstrates that with the support of local communities the national pathway is slowly moving off roadways and onto trails. 

 
As an aside - while the Meadowlark Trail is a stunning route in its own right we particularly loved the trail organization’s choice of name, logo and signs!   As it turned out, the name was actually appropriate as we saw a Western Meadowlark while hiking the trail, in addition to several other grassland species, including Boblinks, Savannah’s Sparrows, and Eastern Kingbirds.

City of Calgary : A Network of Trails

 
With our venture across the concessions and countryside of Alberta now behind us we approached Calgary.   While urban pathways are not the first thing that most people think of when they search for great hiking or cycling routes the trails in Alberta’s larger cities from Edmonton to Red Deer and Calgary stand out as superb.   Much like their urban counterparts in Saskatchewan’s cities of Regina and Saskatoon the dedication of Alberta’s city planners has given way to amazing results.  

With more than 100 km of developed and maintained gravel pathways the route through Calgary is a unique part of the Great Trail.  Not only does Calgary’s urban network traverse the city from end to end but it also includes a number of spurs allowing for wider exploration.  The result being that local walkers, joggers, and cyclists have tons of possibilities to choose from.   In addition, Calgary’s trail system is a wonderful natural experience connecting users to some of the city’s most stunning attractions including Fort Calgary, Inglewood Bird Sanctuary, Fish Creek Provincial Park and the great views from Bowmont Park of the former Calgary 88 Olympic Site.  Forming one of the most extensive networks of trails in the country the pathways of the City of Calgary serve as one of the best urban sections on the Trans Canada Trail in the country.  

Perhaps the only “failing” of Calgary’s urban pathways is that they are not yet connected to the stunning and popular trails of Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park.   As a result those exploring the region via its pathways must follow an 18 kilometer stretch along the side on the side of a busy roadway.  

Glenbow Ranch : Refined Exploration

 
With that said, Alberta’s next amazing stretch of the national pathway took us through the wondrous Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park.  Glenbow is both one of the province’s newest parks and one of the TCT’s most recent additions which offers some of the best experiences to hike, cycle and explore nature in the region.  

 
Opened in 2011, the trails of Glenbow Provincial Park traverse along the Bow River for 13 km on a packed gravel trail between the outskirts of Calgary and town of Cochrane amid historic ranches and an active train line.    Throughout the park and along the path are interpretive panels, picnic areas, benches for resting, and scenic outlooks.  Developed by the Glenbow Ranch Park Foundation, which conserves the park’s biodiversity and runs educational programs, the park supports citizen science projects such as Bee Watch, and provides visitors with amazing opportunities for wildlife and bird viewing.   

 
We enjoyed Glenbow so much that we spent three days in Cochrane with two of those days dedicated to exploring and re-walking this amazing pathway.  Here we frequently spotted deer, Richardson’s Ground Squirrels and countless migrating birds. 

Into the Rocky Mountains

 
Thus far, in reflecting on the Trans Canada Trail across Alberta we have focused on singular trails.  However, sometimes one trail isn’t enough, either to explore a region or capture the sense of a place.  

Thankfully as the TCT enters the Rocky Mountains 35 kilometers south of the city of Cochrane there are three separate but seamlessly woven together paths which give users a terrific experience.  The combination of the West Bragg Creek, Kananaskis County and Quainte Creek Trails creates one of the best hiking and cycling routes in Alberta – if not all of Canada.    

 
The connection of these trails combines to give users more than 90 km of continuous pathways that span from Bragg Creek to the community of Exshaw on the shores of Lac des Arcs. These great trails have clear signage, are well developed, regularly maintained and traverse stunningly scenic valleys, follow local rivers, and navigate into the heart of the Rocky Mountain range. 

Highlights include venturing through visit amazing localities such as the Bow Valley Wildland Provincial Park, and Spray Valley Provincial Park, as well as getting to climb along the epic Cox Hill Path.  

 

Our time in this region included seeing bears, camping in stunning river valleys and navigating a wicked hail and thunder storm on the top of Cox Hill.  Beyond these our greatest challenge was finding the motivation to keep hiking west as the landscapes and natural beauty seemingly called to us to stay and explore more. 

High Rockies Trail : Continental Divide

 
Thinking that the trio of pathways entering into the western cordillera could not be matched we were quickly surprised when beyond Banff we stepped onto the incomparable High Rockies Trail.  While it was the last pathway we would hike in Alberta the High Rockies Trail is one of our personal favorites so far in Canada!  

 
The result of decades of effort and countless volunteer hours, the High Rockies Trail spans 86 km from the resort town of Banff to the Elk Pass tying together the TCT from Alberta to British Columbia.  This ambitious project and amazing trail is well designed and superbly maintained which his no small task given the topography and regional challenges along the route which regularly includes avalanches, forest fires, and floods.  On the way we enjoyed recreation areas with hiker camping sites and provincial parks as the trail wove along the edge of mountains and traversed both landslides and lakeshores. 

Beyond being a superb route the High Rockies Trail is a wilderness experience that requires hikers and cyclists alike to be prepared, carry in their own food, regularly filter their own water, and navigate the ever changing landscape.  

Along this trail we frequently spotted elk, bear and wildlife.  In addition to which, while were the only hikers on the High Rockies when we ventured through, we nonetheless frequently met with, camped alongside, and chatted with determined trekkers and cyclists.  This should not have surprised us as the High Rockies Trail is also part of both the awe-inspiring Canadian Great Divide Trail and an extension of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT).  

Reflecting on the Great Trail in Alberta

Given the vast array of experiences, places, and landscapes that the Trans Canada Trail in Alberta takes users through there is no simple or concise way to summarize it beyond saying that it was an absolute joy to hike along and that this province offers a little bit of everything.  
 

While there is no denying that hikers and cyclists alike do spent a fair amount of time on dusty concessions, paved roadways and a few busy highways the development of trails in Alberta is ongoing and amazing. The Trans Canada Trail was always going to be a continuing project and a work in progress – thankfully in Alberta this progress has been terrific.

Alberta is the only province to be able to boast having pathways and cycling routes on the Great Trail that span from the open landscapes of the prairies, through urban centers, historical ranches, provincial parks, and over the Rocky Mountains.  The creation and improvement of the national trail across the province allows terrific hiking and ATVing in the north, just as the urban pathways of Edmonton, Red Deer and Calgary provide for great access to nature in the cities.  However the crown jewel of the province is the huge range of wilderness trails from Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park westward to the border with British Columbia.  To have enjoyed, in quick succession, the paths of West Bragg Creek, Kananaskis County, Quainte Creek and the High Rockies Trail which collectively took us from suburban Calgary to BC gave us one of our favorite stretches of hiking in the entire nation.  

Another stretch of the TCT which deserves mention for its uniqueness in the national trail system is in Blackfalds Alberta.  Here in the Abbey Centre – a local athletic complex – is the only section of the Trans Canada Trial in the nation which is indoors.  Trail users can enter the facility on the second level and walk past both murals and signs for the TCT around the upper concourse.  Our visit there provided a wonderful break and we had a chance to talk with the welcoming staff.  

Without a doubt, trail Builders across the province and organizations like Alberta Trailnet have a lot to be proud of as they continue to develop the Trans Canada Trail.  Our greatest hope is that the route leading north to the Arctic Ocean in Northern Alberta is just as much a varied and wonderful experience as the trek through the south of Alberta was.  Thank you to everyone who helped us, supported us, and who has developed the trails of Alberta!