To the Salish Sea : Lonsdale Quay to Horseshoe Bay

Our next Come Walk With Us blog detailing our trek from Lonsdale Quay to Horseshoe Bay has been greatly delayed in its release.  In fact (as you know) it is being published some time after completing our trek from Cape Spear Newfoundland to Victoria British Columbia.  This delay is partially the result of our own exhaustion from pushing so hard throughout the last few months on the trail.  (Since concluding we have slept for the past several weeks without doing much else.)  However it is also the result of not being sure what to say.  Our final day on the continent between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans was a moment of great achievement for us, a time for reflection, and a period of melancholy.  This final sentiment might seem odd given the circumstances however our arrival on the Pacific shoreline lead us to hiking alone, reflecting on a trek almost completed, and was topped off with a series of ferry cancellations.  

Above all as we arrived in the  late afternoon with our hands in the waters of the Salish Sea we had to contend with important questions such as ‘Was this worth it?', "Did we have an impact?", and 'What’s Next?’  Each questions which we still struggle with today.

Regardless, and without further delay ...

When we set out onto the Trans Canada Trail again this morning there was a gentle grey fog hanging over Vancouver's towers across the glassy waters of the harbour off Lonsdale Quay.  As the strong golden orange of the sunrise gave way to a clear blue sky, we stopped to watch the sea bus making its way across the harbour, filled with morning commuters on their way to work and school.  It was a strange feeling, to stand in the quiet, cold morning air, watching so much human activity set against such a vast landscape, which included not only the ocean, but a backdrop of snow covered mountains a well.

When we made our way along the landscaped waterfront, the wooden boardwalk was still slippery with a thick layer of dense white frost.  We took a few minutes to admire some of the outdoor art exhibits that lined the pedestrian walkway, and to read some of the plaques that explained the history and development of the Port of Vancouver and its many terminals and quays.

To our delight, we soon came to the most artistically and culturally beautiful Trans Canada Trail pavilion we've ever seen.  Its entrance was guarded by two elaborately carved wooden Greeting Figures, created by Darren Yelton, a carver from the Squamish First Nation.  The two elder figures were dressed in traditional cedar hats and vests, with white doves to symbolize peace and friendship.  Salmon, which represent the cycle of life, bald eagles, which are a symbol of power and prestige, and a grizzly bear, representing the strength of the Squamish Peoples, were also included with the colourfully painted, hand carved figures.

Above the usual trail map in the pavilion a gorgeous carving was displayed with the words 'Trans Canada Trail' around it.  The pavilion was colourful, beautiful, and so strongly spoke of local culture that it stands out as truly memorable.  If all the pavilions across the country had been adorned by local artists or community groups I think it would have provided a fascinating insight into how culture, art, and representation differ across this vast country.

After admiring our last TCT pavilion we continued around the waterfront to the Mosquito Creek Marina, where a row of very brightly coloured boathouses was almost perfectly replicated in the mirror-like waters of the harbour.  Rows of neat white yachts and sailboats were moored alongside.  This was one of Vancouver's two main marinas that offer berths for large boats, yachts, and house boats and it is owned and operated by the Squamish Nation.

The Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Úxwumixw (Squamish Nation) is an Indian Act government created in the 19th century by the Federal Government.  The Squamish Peoples are indigenous to southern British Columbia, with traditional territories that extend north from Vancouver to beyond Whistler and throughout the Squamish River watershed.  Today, the band owns land in the Lower Mainland that has some of the highest real estate values in British Columbia.  They also have numerous business interests in the area, including the recent purchase of a tree farm license, making them one of the few bands to purchase back unceded land.

Just passed the Mosquito Creek Marina we came to an elaborately carved wooden gateway.  A nearby plaque indicated that this was the 'Gateway to Ancient Wisdom,' and that it marked the beginning of the Spirit Trail.  Suzanne had mentioned the North Shore Spirit Trail to us yesterday, and we had been highly tempted to simply follow it to Horseshoe Bay. This 35 km long, fully accessible paved pathway wound along the North Shore waterfront, providing access to pedestrians, cyclists, inline skaters, and people with wheeled mobility aids.  It also offered a much more direct and flat route to Horseshoe Bay.  However, true to form, instead of walking through the Gateway of Wisdom and following the shorter, flatter, and more scenic route, the Trans Canada Trail followed roads and sidewalks up and down the side of a mountain, navigating a route that was nearly three times longer to reach the same location.

Journey not the Destination...

Even now, after spent four summers walking over 13,000 km to cross a continent that is around 6,000 km wide, we still sometimes struggle to willingly accept that 'it is about the journey, not the destination.'  However, after staying true to the nonsensical and winding path all the way from the Atlantic Ocean, we decided to resist temptation and follow the official route. I did however take a moment to pass under the Gateway of Wisdom, just in case.

A short walk through the affluent neighbourhoods and upscale shopping districts of North Vancouver brought us to the Mosquito Creek Trail, which wove northward through a series of forested parks that bordered the small creek.  A coat of thick white frost still clung to the grasses and leaves as we set off up the wide, crushed stone dust pathway, emphasizing the outlines and veins of the colourful fall leaves, and setting off their rich colours.

As the morning progressed the sun began to melt the frost, and to send shafts of golden light through the improbably tall cedars, firs, and maples that towered above our heads.  It was a gorgeous Saturday morning, and the wide, crushed-stone dust trail was full of people out walking large, energetic, and very well-cared for dogs.  A carpet of colourful leaves covered the ground, and a small wooden fence separated us from the shallow, fast-flowing, crystal-clear creek beside us.  It was slow but pleasant going as quite a few people stopped to ask about our large backpacks and to wish us well.  Once again we felt very lucky to be encased in a tunnel of mossy forest as we crossed one of Canada's largest cities.

Eventually we emerged from the series of green spaces to find ourselves in Edgemont Village.  Situated at the base of Grouse Mountain, this small, upscale community had the feel of a resort town.  It's colourful and well landscaped main street featured many small, independently own shops selling specialty foods, artisanal crafts and artwork, and boutique clothing, as well as an assortment of cafes and restaurants.  We even passed a cooking school, where young children were standing around a large wooden table on individual boxes, looking very serious as they learned to prepare a meal.  We happily took a break at a table on the sidewalk outside Delany's Coffee House while we enjoyed a hot coffee and a delicious chocolate almond croissant.

Capilano Regional Park...Forests of Moss

After this short break from the morning's climbing, we continued on down the village's main street.  When we reached the end of it, the trail turned right, heading up into the Capilano River Regional Park.  If we had turned in the other direction we would have come to the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, which is home to one of Vancouver's most popular tourist attractions.  The 140 m long Capilano Suspension bridge spans the deep forested canyon created by the Capilano River. Visitors to the park can also follow a narrow boardwalk along a granite precipice on the Cliffwalk, follow a maze of elevated walkways through the canopy of the lush rainforest, or visit a number of different cafes and restaurants.  In winter the park is lit by Christmas lights, making it look truly magical at night.  We visited the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park nearly a decade ago, and were tempted to make a detour again today, but when we discovered that the cost of admission for adults now begins at $75 per person (meaning it would be almost $200 with tax for two of us) we decided against it.

We've talked a lot about barriers to getting out into nature during our hike, and it felt like we'd just walked into one - excessive costs.  However, it turned out there was a nice surprise in store for us around the corner.  After a short uphill walk along the sidewalk, we turned off into the Capilano Regional River Park, where entry was free of charge.  We soon found ourselves navigating a network of trails through a lush, coastal rainforest that was blanketed by thick, bright green moss.  Sunlight filtered down through delicate canopy, causing the mossy branches to glow with golden light, and sending up a fresh, earthy smell into the cool air. 

Douglas fir and western red cedars towered above our heads, and moss-covered stumps the size of small cars stood on steep forested slopes covered in giant ferns that looked like they belonged in the Jurassic Period.

As we made our way slowly through this magical forest it felt like we could have been on a grand quest in a science fiction or fantasy world.  We scrambled up and down steep slopes on uneven, root studded dirt footpaths, followed wooden boardwalks with sturdy railings, and diverted onto wider, flatter, main trails.  A highlight was crossing a small suspension bridge over the Capilano River, whose turquoise waters slipped through the rocky canyon walls far below us.  Although it felt like we had been transported to another world, the trails were actually quite busy, and we were surprised to see the tiny shapes of people, way down below us, fishing along the shores of the river.

The Capilano River  Regional Park is one of Vancouver's oldest parks, and it features over 26 km of trails, which form a network throughout the large green space.  While there were maps scattered sporadically throughout the trail network, many junctions were unmarked, and somehow we managed to get lost.  Our route was supposed to take us to the Cleveland Dam and the Capilano River Hatchery. The Cleveland Dam is a 91 m tall concrete structure located at the head of the Capilano River.  It was created to form the Capilano Reservoir, which holds a portion of the drinking water for the Lower Mainland.  The Capilano River Hatchery was opened in 1971 to help support the salmon stocks that were affected by the creation of the dam.  It still makes notable contributions to the coho and steelhead salmon fisheries in Burrard Inlet, and the facility welcomes over 238,000 visitors per year, free of charge.  Although we thought we were following the signs to these attractions, somehow we must have missed a turn (or several) without realizing it.  By the time we noticed our mistake, we were quite some distance downhill from the dam, and not entirely sure how to get back to it without getting lost again.  As a result, we decided to simply continue going south (hopefully), rather than attempting to backtrack through the network.

Although the official Trans Canada Trail followed Stevenson Rd back down the mountain towards Park Royal, we chose to walk inside the beautifully forested park pathway as long as possible.  As we made our way back along the canyon we passed a small hiking group heading in the opposite direction.  The guide stopped to ask about our hike, and expressed a huge amount of enthusiasm for our journey when we explained what we were doing.  Our spirits had been sagging a little after all the climbing, getting lost, and the prospect of reaching a pretty major milestone at the end of the day, which was somehow beginning to feel sadly anticlimactic.  Her positive energy and over exuberance really helped to perk us up.

Neighbourhood Trekking...

Eventually we emerged from the park onto Stevenson Rd, a long, winding street bordered by secluded, luxury homes on immaculately landscaped properties.  Throughout the neighbourhood we began to see signs for British Properties.  In 1931 a group of investors led by the Guinness family purchased 4,000 acres of land from the District of West Vancouver with the intention of creating exceptional neighbourhoods that were secluded and luxurious, yet close to city life.  The original British Properties were designed in 1933 by the famous Olmsted Brothers who were the landscape architects behind New York City's Central Park.  Stanley F. Thompson, one of North America's premier golf course architects was hired to design the Capilano Golf Course and club house, which opened in 1937.  Around the same time, British Properties designed, constructed, and financed construction of the Lions Gate Bridge, which provided much-needed construction jobs during the Great Depression and also created a vital link between North and West Vancouver.  Another milestone for the group was construction of the Park Royal shopping centre in the 1950's, which was anchored by Woodward's Department Store, and is noted as having improved life in the new neighbourhoods considerably. Although we didn't realize it at the time, the neighbourhood we were walking through was actually an important part of local history.

As we emerged from the quiet neighbourhood onto Taylor Way we found ourselves on familiar territory, heading to Park Royal Mall in West Vancouver which has an Icebreaker store we've visited several times with parents who were looking for Christmas gifts to support our hike.  Just before we got to this extremely busy shopping centre our 'trail' - now tracing along sidewalks and the edge of busy roadways - turned west again.  For the next 12 km or so we followed steep and winding roads up and down the base of Cypress Mountain, winding our way through the upscale neighbourhoods and residential developments of West Vancouver.  Before we got too far we took the opportunity to stop for a second croissant and coffee and a bit of break.

The next two hours of walking were pleasant enough, and we enjoyed brief glimpses of the view out over the sunny waters of Burrard Inlet.  However, climbing steeply up and down and up and down on residential streets, most of which didn't have a sidewalk, felt a bit pointless, especially since the Spirit Trail was below us, following the shoreline on a dedicated hiking and cycling trail.  Adding to our discontentment, we crossed the Upper Levels Highway (aka the Trans Canada Highway) five times during our meanderings.  The crossings weren't too bad, mostly taking the form of underpasses, but several times we had to cross very busy on/off ramps on blind curves.  During one of these hair-raising stretches a car pulled over, narrowly avoiding a collision, and we were amazed to once again hear enthusiastic cheering.  It was the hiking guide we'd run into earlier in the Capilano River Regional Park! The additional dose of enthusiasm and encouragement did a lot to improve our flagging spirits and boost our energy levels as we continued to climb.  With the ocean as our goal for the day, it felt very counter intuitive to spend the day ascending.

Achievements of Mel Vogel ...

Mel Vogel - Between Sunsets

As the afternoon wore on we found ourselves in an odd frame of mind.  Each step was bringing us closer to what felt like a major milestone - the end of the east-west portion of the Trans Canada Trail on mainland Canada.  True, we still have six days of hiking on Vancouver Island in order to complete this stage of our journey, but we were taking our last steps on the mainland, having crossed Canada from Cape Spear Newfoundland and having trekked the continent on foot from Sydney, Nova Scotia to Horseshoe Bay, British Columbia.  It seemed like this should have been a momentous occasion, but it felt oddly anti-climactic.  For one thing, we are well aware that this milestone pales in comparison to what Mel Vogel is celebrating today along with the staff of the Trans Canada Trail who flew in to meet her and Malo in Victoria - the completion of her five-year solo hike from the Atlantic to the Arctic to the Pacific on all three branches of the Trans Canada Trail.  Together with everyone else, we stand in awe of another journey that is very much worth celebrating.

In another way coming to the Pacific Coast of Vancouver is something we have done countless times over the years during which we have lived on and visited the Sunshine Coast.  As a result today’s trek is more one of ‘coming home’ than of discovery and the unknown.  

Next...

I suppose it is best just to say that we aren’t sure how to feel about such a vast undertaking moving towards being completed.  We have questions about our impact and about what we have done.  We have questions about what we have done over 4 years and what we will do next in the years to come. We wonder whether we will have the ability to trek to the Arctic on the Trans Canada Trail in 2023.  Each of these are questions we hope will give rise to answers for us in the future.  Right now all that we have is the goal of continuing on to the ocean in front of us.

As we walked towards Horseshoe Bay through the late afternoon sunshine, we had much to look forward to and be grateful for, but the inescapable feeling that there was little to mark our arrival at the water's edge as being anything different from all those other times we've passed through this region in the 20 plus years that we have spent here seemed to prevail.  Our arrival would bring no notice, no fan fair, and we would be seen as nothing more than two more hikers wandering towards the ferry terminal.   Even family, friends, and former colleagues who we had hoped would join us and who live nearby spent the day informing us through texts, emails and quick phone calls that venturing to Horseshoe Bay from Vancouver was just too far for them.  As such we would arrive to the Pacific alone.  Perhaps we will feel a sense of accomplishment when we reach Victoria.

Despite our sense of malaise we couldn't help but note how the Trans Canada Trail continued to provide us with a new perspective, right up until the end.  Past trips to and from Horseshoe Bay which we regularly visit en route between the Sunshine Coast and Vancouver have always been in cars on Highway 1 or Marine Dr.  Today however, we found ourselves walking through neighbourhoods we'd only seen previously from the ferry.  To our surprise, after crossing under the highway for the fourth time, we walked through Nelson Canyon Park, under a canopy of huge tall trees, on a wide gravel trail filled with people out walking their dogs. This park connects to Whyte Lake Park, which at 306 acres is the largest park in West Vancouver, and is itself adjacent to the 30 square kilometre Cypress Provincial Park.  Together these green spaces offer some fantastic hiking options along the Whyte Lake Trail, the Trans Canada Trail, and the famous Baden Powell Trail, which serves as a loop connecting Capilano Regional Park to Horseshoe Bay.  Earlier today we chose not to take this alternate route of the Trans Canada Trail because there is now a great deal of snow on the mountain tops which would make hiking somewhat more challenging.

Horseshoe Bay, the Pacific Ocean, and Salish Sea...

We made our way through a small slice of the Nelson Canyon Park on a very steep forested trail before crossing under the highway once more.  To our surprise, we found ourselves on a gorgeous pathway that skirted the edge of the mountain.  On one side homes climbed the hill above us, and on the other we had a bird's eye view over the West Vancouver Yacht Club down below us in Fisherman's Cove.  The ocean and mountain scenery were stunning, and this trail was also filled with people out enjoying the gorgeous afternoon.  As we descended towards the water, what did we see?  Of course, a sign for the Spirit Trail which the TCT rejoined on the outskirts of Horseshoe Bay!  So, for the last kilometre or so as we trekked to the coastline, we got to follow it after all.

En route the trail took us through the small community of Horseshoe Bay, skirting around the smooth, emerald green slopes of the Gleneagles Golf Course, where it looked like a movie or TV show was being filmed.  In all our trips to Horseshoe Bay, we hadn't realized there was a large golf course and club house or a gorgeous hiking trail right beside the ferry terminal!  We came out onto a quiet street lined with homes, and followed it down to the familiar waterfront and Sewell's Marina.  The small row of coffee shops and restaurants of the main street is tucked away in the shadow of the ferry terminal and its loading area, but looks out across the marina at the mountains on the far side of Howe Sound.

There, at the corner of Bay St, inconspicuously stuck to the back of a stop sign, was the last (or first!) Trans Canada Trail sign on Canada's mainland on the Pacific coast.  It had a tiny '0 k' in the corner, and said 'Trans Canada Trail Walk Route East' on it.  For someone, this spot will mark the beginning of a long and life-changing journey westward.  So far only Sarah Jackson has made the trek on foot from west to east and so this location is less familiar than St. John’s iconic starting point or the cairn in Tuktoyaktuk NWT.

Atlantic to Pacific Completed ...

Having arrived we crossed the road to the small sandy beach and dipped our hands into the Salish Sea the historical and regional name for the local stretch of the Pacific Ocean.  In that moment we realized something - we had now walked from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, at last fulfilling the first part of our goal - to walk from coast to coast to coast.  We stood for a few minutes on the beach, watching a man skip stones across the water while his daughters played in the sand beside us and watched us, likely wondering what we were doing.

Delays, Cancellations, and Plans Change...

After a few moments of bliss reflecting on this achievement we were awoken from our private thoughts when we noticed the ferry to Nanaimo rounding the bend into the bay, heading towards the terminal.  We hadn't been paying much attention to the time, so we took this as our cue to head up to the ticket counter.  Apparently this particular ferry was running late, and even though it would still take some time to dock and another half an hour to unload and reload, ticket sales for the next sailing had already closed. Huff...

Undeterred, we purchased tickets for the 8:05pm ferry to Nanaimo and headed back down to the village for a bite to eat as well as a celebratory pint of local beer.  As the afternoon light faded to evening, the snow covered peaks of the mountains on the far side of the water turned to a warm rosy pink.  Nature was putting on a show, and it felt good to sit still, watching the peaceful, beautiful sight we'd never seen before unfold outside.

Two hours later we were back in the ferry terminal but, as it turned out, the 8:05 pm ferry was cancelled due to staff shortages.  With few other options we purchased new tickets to get on the 10:10 pm crossing to Nanaimo.  As evening turned to night we sat in the waiting room chatting and talking about the day’s hike.  Then around 9:45pm the screen in the terminal informed us that the last ferry to Vancouver Island was also cancelled, with no reason given.  Uncertain about what to do we quickly checked to see if the local motel had rooms and soon discovered that it was full – the result of two ferries being cancelled.   As such, after sitting for almost 5 hours waiting, we purchased our third round of tickets putting us on the 10:55 pm sailing to Langdale and ‘home’ on the Sunshine Coast.  

Once again circumstances beyond our control would push us to change our plans...and quickly.

I hastily called my parents in Sechelt to let them know of the situation and our imminent arrival.  And so it was that our day of achievement in which we completed an epic trek which few others have undertaken was quickly transformed into being drilled with my aging parent’s constant concerns.   It was soon clear that while we could thankfully look forward to a warm welcome when we eventually got back home our arrival would harken long discussions about the dangers of being outside after dark, the risks of leaving the house, complaints about the weather, news reports of crime in Vancouver, accounts of the dangers of riding on public transit, stories of their health concerns, and familiar tales of when things were better in the past.   Our moment of achievement would be shuffled aside in lieu of listening as well as the responsibilities and realities of caring for my elderly parents and centenarian grandmother.  

Four years ago things were not so, yet time changes all things and this is now the present context of our lives.    It is a hard thing to watch those you love transform with age.  With this in mind, as the evening gave way to night, and as the temperatures began to drop, we had a long time to reflect on what would come next - both upon our arrival into Sechelt and next in our lives as we transition from being teachers, researchers and Canadian Explorers to being patient caretakers for those who have cared for us for so long.

Nature Connects Us...

It has been a long journey getting this far.  We've seen the best and the worst of this country and everything in between.  We've met people from all walks of life, from vastly different backgrounds, and with highly opposed political views.  I'd like to think we've learned something of value from all of them.  We have witnessed the spirit and ingenuity of Canadians from coast to coast.  Yet we've experienced firsthand what it's like to venture 'outside the box', and how these days many of the institutions and systems seem designed to crush anything beyond themselves, even when common goals are being pursued.  Through these challenges however, we have come to understand that despite apparent differences Canadians hold about them an aura of excitement about nature and the outdoors.  We are a nation of travellers,  campers, farmers, mariners, and explorers.   Deep down Canadians are a people who are passionate lovers of nature, because the land ties us together, it constantly reveals fresh perspectives, and it unites us as well as bringing us together as one nation.  

Questions Arise...

As we sit here waiting for the ferry we have spent hours reflecting, talking and dealing with questions such as : Was this hike worth it?  What has hiking across Canada taught us?  Does photographing and documenting Canada in this way have a place?  Will the #Hike4Birds and its goals be remembered? 

All of these questions reminded me of the travel quote from David McCullough :

"Climb the mountain so you can see the world, not so the world can see you."

As we departed the continental coastline of Canada on the ferry at 11:05 pm we reflected on many of the ongoing issues and challenges we have had to face from unexpected quarters and organizations. Four years ago in 2019 when we set out from St. John's Newfoundland we expected to have to deal with harsh weather, challenging trail conditions and wildlife.  We never anticipated having to push through institutional hesitancy and organizational competition.  I can only hope our experiences have made us wiser, if not also a little more jaded. 

I'm certain we've gained a different perspective, and hopefully a better understanding of this vast and diverse country by walking across it.   Canada is great not only because of its landscapes, natural beauty and birds but also because of its peoples, their compassion, and their help of others - especially when institutions fail our communities.

Come Walk With Us, 2019 in Newfoundland

Have our efforts to inspire others, especially striving to get youth, to connect with nature through birds and Citizen Science been effective? Have we made Canada better known to Canadians and the world, and inspired others to explore this amazing place for themselves? We have no way to measure this, except through the positive feedback we regularly receive from others, which suggests our efforts haven't been in vain.  One thing is for certain, there is nothing I'd rather have been doing these past four years.  The places we've seen, the wildlife we've observed, and the random acts of kindness and generosity we've received have gotten us this far.  

We still have six days left to reach Victoria and point zero, but for now we can say this - from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we've made it!

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online