A Sense of Things Past, A Glimpse of Things to Come : Innisfail to Olds

This morning we woke up feeling extremely tired, but after a quick breakfast at Tim Hortons we set off nonetheless.  It was a sunny, cool morning as we followed the paved cycling path through Innisfail and toward the edge of town.  

Our route took us out of the community on a quieter paved road that paralleled the very busy QE II highway.  We were amused/slightly horrified to see a small herd of unsuspecting cows sheltering from the sun under a huge billboard advertising the Grand Big Mac from McDonalds.  Nothing quite like foreshadowing. 

As we followed the paved road across the on ramp for the highway and out into the countryside we were surprised and pleased to see Trans Canada Trail markers!  This is an unusual sight on stretches of paved road, and it was an encouraging indicator that people in this area are supporters of the trail! The result being that for the first time we were able to follow trail signage along the roadways and concessions as we navigated our way along the pathway. 

As we headed out into the hills we passed the Dino Centre, which is an amusement park offering laser tag, mini golf, an escape room, a driving range, a playground, a Bible History Museum, and a café. Our road continued on, climbing steadily among rolling hills of grain and canola, before turning and boxing around the Bowden Institution. 

The Bowden Institution is a medium security prison operated by Correctional Services Canada.  It was constructed on the site of the former RCAF Station Bowden, a WWII British Commonwealth Air Training Plan Facility.  It opened as a medium security facility in 1974, and in 1992 a minimum security farm annex was added.  The farming operating has since been stopped, but the property was surrounded by peaceful looking farmland that was inside the tall prison fencing.  The facility has a capacity to hold 470 medium security prisoners and 130 minimum security prisoners, some of whom live in individual houses.   

As we rounded the prison we spotted two American Kestrels hunting above an un-mowed field. They made large circles in the clear morning air before coming to rest on the fence line.  A pond on the prison grounds was filled with waterfowl, and we could hear Clay-coloured Sparrows calling out in the grasses. Despite the birding activity neither of us was inclined to use binoculars or a camera around the prison facility and its security guards.   

Shortly after leaving the prison behind the paved road became a gravel range road, and we began climbing.  Up and up we went, pulling the carts through rather deep and soft sand and gravel.  When we finally reached the top of the hill we were rewarded with fantastic views out over the rolling landscape. The gravel road descended like a stepped staircase in front of us, and the blue hills disappeared into the distance ahead. 

We descended from our hard-won vantage point, and then turned south down another gravel range road, which we followed for the next 15 km.  By this point the sun was high overhead and incredibly hot.  There was a pleasant breeze blowing from behind us, but we only felt its wonderful touch when we turned around.  The heat made for tough going with the constant climbing we did for the remainder of the day. 

Although it felt like a quiet road, we were passed by several tractors, and we spotted more than one farmer out mowing their hay.  In one field a couple were mowing with what looked and sounded Iike an antique mower, which was kind of cool. In these sections the smell of fresh cut grass was strong in the hot dusty air. 

The rolling hills were extremely beautiful under the clear blue sky.  The yellow canola glowed in the hot afternoon sunshine, and the delicate green stalks of grain waved gently in the slight breeze.  Wood barns and picturesque outbuildings dotted the landscape, and fences made geometric lines across the minimalist landscape.  We passed several very large herds of multicolored cattle - the black, reddish brown, and blond cows keeping pace with us as they trotted down the fields to see what we would do.

We did a lot of climbing, and as we looked out over the golden fields we were almost positive that we could see the faint outlines of foothills through the thick haze to the west of us.  After 475 days on the trail, was this our first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains?  As we were asking ourselves this very question we came to a sign indicating we were entering Mountain View County.  I think this might have been a yes!!  This means that today gave us our first glimpse of things to come in 7-10 days as we approach Banff!

Apart from seeing the hint of the Rockies, a highlight in this long, straight section of walking was spotting two huge Bald Eagles in a pasture.  They took flight from the ground in an impressive whoosh of movement, circled around in the clear blue sky, and then came back to land on two fence posts.  It was a truly majestic display! 

The Bald Eagles came to rest just beyond a small pond surrounded by cattails that was full of smaller birds.  Red-winged Blackbirds sang among the cattails, while several Eastern Kingbirds sat on the fence with beakfuls of insects, ready to feed their young.  A pair of Killdeer ran past on their long legs. Not for the first time we heard a very loud, distinctive, descending bird call from among the cattails that we have yet to identify.  Hopefully we will figure it out! 

As the afternoon wore on we realized we had been following a set of paw prints along the edge of the road for quite a few kilometres.  While it is possible that they belonged to a local dog, or even a small coyote, the fact that they continued straight for many kilometres alongside two wheel tracks made us wonder if perhaps they belonged to Malo?  Mel and her co-adventurer Malo (@betweensunsets) who may well be about a week ahead of us on the trail, and it would be very exciting to think that we might have found evidence of their passing. 

We have never been fortunate to meet with any of the previous or current Trans Canada Trail trekkers - though many including Dana Meise, Mel Vogel, and Bonnie Thornbury have offered us great advice and encouragement.  It is a reality of the size of the Trans Canada Trail that anyone undertaking it will do so on their own for very long stretches, and because of this isolation is also one of the largest challenges.  Unlike the Camino de Santiago or the Appalachian Trail, the TCT has no developed trail culture and no trail families.  It can make for a lonely venture going so long essentially on one's own.  To feel as though we are getting closer to one of the most inspiring people on the national trail is very exciting.  

 

 

Eventually the hilly gravel road brought us back to highway 2A. The going was much faster and easier on the wide, flat, paved shoulder, and there wasn't too much traffic.  We did spot quite a few cars with kayaks on their roofs, and several RVs towing speedboats, which made us wonder what body of water people had spent the weekend visiting. Google maps didn't offer any obvious clues and the side of the highway was clearly not the place to investigate too much. 

When we reached the edge of Olds, which was our destination for tonight, the 'Welcome to Olds' sign indicated that this is the home of the 'World's only Bavarian Rodeo'.  Apparently this event takes place during the Oldstoberfest, which is held on the third weekend of October every year.  There is a biergarten, and the goal is to merge Bavarian culture and western prairie heritage in a unique event that brings about 8,000 visitors to Olds each fall. 

 

 

Though Olds has an historic downtown we were too tired to venture out and see it.  We had noticed from the map that there was a TCT spur that extended west and then suddenly stopped at a Walmart and Canadian Tire.  We had no intention of following this spur, but as usual when we make this decision, we ended up walking it.  

The spur turned out to be a 2+ km cycling path that was lined with colourful flower boxes and works of art.  The stone sculptures were accompanied by interpretive panels explaining the vision and providing information on the sculptor.  Many of the businesses along the road were named 'Mountain View', and I suspect that on a clear day we would have seen a backdrop of mountains ahead of us as we enjoyed the artwork. 

When we reached the end of the spur we came to a large display of photos from the winners of a local photography competition.  The large panels also included some historical information and photos on the community.  We always enjoy seeing evidence of local pride in the communities we passed through. 

It has been 475 days on the trail, and we are now in “sight” of the Rocky Mountains. This feels like a milestone.  Olds is only about 100 east of the mountains!  Frustratingly, instead of continuing west, or even continuing our southward journey towards Calgary, tomorrow we will head east for 56 km.  It seems patience is still required as we box east for almost 200 km, and as ever on the trail, we can only wait and see what adventures (and challenges) tomorrow will bring.

See you on the trail!

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