Balance at the Crossroads : Redwater to Fort Saskatchewan

Today, as regional signs promised, we headed into Alberta's Industrial Heartland.  At first it felt a little strange to be doing a #Hike4Birds, which is dedicated to the conservation of wild birds and their habitats, while taking a tour through an industrial corridor of truly astonishing proportions.  However, if there is one thing to be said about the Trans Canada Trail, it shows people all aspects of this vast country, past and present, and it reminds us again and again of the need to find balance in our daily existence.    

The day began pleasantly enough as we followed quiet gravel range roads through peaceful pastures and fields.  The sky was a clear blue without a single cloud, and the sun's rays were already beginning to feel warm as we set out.  We heard the distinctive call of a Bobolink from a nearby pasture, and an Eastern Kingbird perched on a nearby fence post. The ditches and fields on either side of the road were very wet, with puddles of standing water throughout. Unexpectedly, we heard the calls of frogs resonating from among the puddles in canola fields. 

Soon we began to see signs of industry across the fields. First we passed an enormous terra-formed mound of bare earth, which from satellite images looked like it contained several huge wastewater ponds. A huge facility stood in its shadow, which was part of the Redwater Nutrien Fertilizer plant. 

Adjacent to this was the truly enormous NWR Sturgeon Refinery.  Apparently this is the world's only refinery designed to minimize its environmental footprint through carbon capture and storage, while producing low-carbon products needed to meet North America's energy requirements.  I'm not sure what that means exactly, but it was a truly enormous facility on the banks of the North Saskatchewan River.

For the next 20 km or so we boxed along gravel roads, with the smoke stacks of factories, plants, and processing facilities visible along the river the entire time.  At times the air was filled with the smell of burning plastic, and at others it held the slightly chemically, cabbage-y smell of canola.  As we headed west and then south again we noticed that the land around us had been farmed, but there were no homes or barns.  It was as if we were venturing through a region cleared as a potential blast radius, with no residents permitted in case of disaster.  Oh the places the TCT has led us…

As we turned south towards the North Saskatchewan River once again we walked for nearly two hours among canola fields, the towers and flames of the factories visible above the trees and beyond the fields.  As we began to approach the river again we had the Pembina facility on our left, and the Manderley Turf Products on the other.  Pembina Pipeline is a Canadian Corporation that operates transportation and storage infrastructure delivering oil and natural gas to and from parts of Western Canada.  The scale of the facility defies description.  Enough to say that there were eight train lines surrounding the facility, all full of trains that consisted of several hundred oil tankers each.  The sight was impressive for its sheer scope and size.

On the opposite side of the road fields of perfect looking lawn extended out as far as we could see.  The turf farm looked like a golf course, and it smelled strongly of fertilizer and other chemicals.  It was a strange feeling, walking between a huge factory on one side and a perfect lawn on another. 

Further down the road the Trans Canada Trail passed signs for hazardous waste facilities, and signs suggesting we were under video surveillance and being monitored.  At the same time we were being repeatedly passed by a black pickup truck that lacked license plates and was being driven by a man dressed in dark sunglasses and a khaki uniform didn't do much to boost our sense of ease hiking in this area.  Needless to say every time we took a picture of the trail we had the sense that we would be given a talking to.

As we walked steadily towards the river we couldn't help but thinking long and hard about what we were seeing.  It struck us that environmental protection and industry are often portrayed and understood as being opposites - if you support one you must necessarily be against the other.  This perspective means that as a society we tend to hold views that are highly divisive and difficult to reconcile.  Business, Industry, Farmers and Ranchers must believe in X, Y, and Z while Environmentalists and Conservationists must believe in A,B, and C.  The entire debate has become polarized to a point of immobility with neither side acknowledging the role, achievements or efforts of the other.   However, to build a sustainable future we will need both environmental protection and industrial innovation which collectively foster economic opportunities and employment – successful conservation cannot happen if people do not have jobs and a means for livelihood.    

Scientific research is undoubtedly necessary to study and know what is going on, and a stitch of government guidance is needed to set long term goals but essential conservation action definitively requires local engagement and leadership to navigate and balance regional needs alongside long term goals to be successful. 

Environmentalists (and I am one of them) need to look beyond their research and computer screens to see that farmers and ranchers daily live the consequences of climate change.  They need no one to tell them that things are getting tough – they live the floods and droughts.  Policy makers need to see and acknowledge the challenges facing those who rely on the land for their own sustainability.  The pressures of insurance, debt, and crop production amid historic droughts, floods, and unpredictable temperatures are often behind farmer’s need to cut down trees, produce more crops, have third harvests, spray more, etc, etc, etc.  

Every farmer and rancher I have had the privilege to chat with across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and Alberta has talked openly about seeing the changes in the environment, the drop of water levels, and the decline in birds they grew up with.  Almost all of them know their bird species and wildlife by heart – and have taught me a great deal I did not know beforehand.   They are as nervous as the rest of us for the changes they are seeing and living around them. 

These are not people who hate nature since, after all, many fields and ranches are lined with bird houses and many of these people help conserve local wildlife and almost all are members of the Lion’s and Elk’s Clubs and the local Legion.  They support community efforts and are local volunteers striving to make things better. Just as many people in these regions volunteer their time to the 4-H clubs, the local fairs, raise money for the schools and help with community improvement.  None of these things are the result of national programs or support they are the result of neighbours taking care of their community with one’s own time, money and effort.  So much that these rural communities and towns are proud of and do to improve things gets missed in the political polarization and stereotyping that goes on these days.  This nation has a great deal to be proud of and emulate outside of the big city centres.

Perhaps more progress in conservation effectiveness would be made by travelling, seeing first hand, listening to local matters and concerns in order to find a balanced way forward?  I know I have learned a great deal from meeting people face to face in farms and ranches across this great nation.  Perhaps as I have come to see that many farmers and ranchers are 'closet conservationists' so too have I started to recognize that in terms of financial matters I am a bit of a 'closet conservative' too.  

I think we have all become a bit too publicly judgmental and polarized these days.  It has become the norm to be judgmental and discount other perspectives we know little about. Yet, anyone can see that there is a acreage of middle ground to work with in this discussion and we can all move forward if we just listen.

As someone who is dedicated to bird conservation, the sight of massive factories in grasslands, on top of forests and beside riverways makes me cringe.  I firmly believe that industry needs to be cleaner, more efficient, and held accountable - all of which can be done while businesses still make a profit and assure regional employment.  But I will also admit in order to go birding, camping, or to do scientific research in remote areas, that I rely on the products being produced by these very factories.  Research vehicles run on gas, my shoes are made of petroleum products, our gear is the result of these factories, so much of our food is packaged in plastics, and I really like being able to eat fresh vegetables - most of which is Canadian grown.  This is fact we all face.  We all have a part to play in every choice we make.  The simple fact is that business and industry exist to make money and they will invariably change when people’s purchases reflect their values – which also is easier said than done – especially as the economy gets tough for everyone.  There is no silver bullet and no single solution.  None of this debate is easy, yet the answer must be in listening and striving to find a sustainable balance between all the lived experiences across the nation.   Perhaps finding this balance requires the Wisdom of Solomon to solve.  All I know it is beyond me. 

Anyways enough of my random thoughts. 

On the Trans Canada Trail, when we finally reached the wide, fast-flowing river again we found ourselves descending a small hill towards the water.  We could hear the chugging and screeching of a train approaching, and to our horror, a long chain of tanks filled with various chemicals appeared above us, running along the tracks parallel to the road.  There is something unnerving about walking directly below a massive moving train – especially one with labels detailing how dangerous their contents are!  Regardless these trains are always mighty sights to enjoy and experience.   

 

Hu Haven, Alberta - the crossroads of East, West and North on the TCT

Just after this we came to a very important decision point in the Trans Canada Trail. It was a completely unimpressive fork in the gravel road, that was entirely unmarked.  The importance of this nondescript cross-roads was that it marked the turn north.  If we continued straight we would keep walking towards Victoria, BC, but if we turned right we would begin our journey north to Turktoyaktuk, NT.  It felt like such an important moment!  I definitely think this spot deserves a special Trans Canada Trail sign detailing its importance. 

As we continued straight westward towards BC, we had to wait for another train to pass on the tracks ahead of us.  It was moving very slowly and the engineer blew his whistle multiple times for us and gave us a cheery wave as he passed in front of us. One always feels like part of history to be near a train and feel it rumble past.  That and the engineers are terrifically cool – they almost always slow down wave and blow the horn.  It is as if they are signalling their approval of striking out on our own way!

When we were able to continue we followed along beside the river.  There were very large factories on the far side of it as well, including the petrochemical facilities operated by Dow Chemical, Sherritt International, Nutien, and Shell Canada.  On and on we walked in the hot afternoon sunshine.  Happily, as we progressed the road was bordered by trees, which provided the occasional patch of shade.  We even spotted a coyote dashing across the road in front of us!

By this point we had walked about 25 km without really taking a break, and the sun was very hot.  Suddenly we had an unexpected treat.  We passed a parked pickup truck at the edge of the road, and almost immediately realized we were walking beside a pathway with an old TCT marker on it!  We backtracked to the parked truck and found the unmarked trail head hidden behind it.  Apparently the Fort Augustus Heritage Trail had been extended!  A marvellous treat! 

We found ourselves on a beautifully maintained walking trail under a canopy of shady trees. It was gloriously cool and beautiful, and we were finally able to take a break, sitting on a metal gate. We even had some special pastries to enjoy which Sean had purchased to celebrate us meeting the crossroads of the East, West and Northern sections of the trail after 460+ days of hiking! 

 

For the next 4-5 km we followed this beautiful forested trail along the shore of the North Saskatchewan River.  It wove up and down the banks of the waterway, requiring us to pull the carts up and down several sets of stairs, but the gloriously forested tunnel of green was well worth the effort! 

 

About halfway through our walk we came to a large parking lot with an interpretive sign indicating we were standing at the spot where Fort Augustus once stood.  Fort Augustus was established in 1795 by Angus Shaw of the North West Company.  He was attempting to out-distance competition and tap a new source of beaver pelts from Cree and Métis traders in the region.  

In the fall of that same year William Tomison of the Hudson's Bay Company built a rival post, called Edmonton House "within a musket shot" of the Nor'Westers.  By 1801, resources in the area had been so thoroughly depleted that both forts had to move up river to Edmonton.  Today the location of Fort Augustus and Edmonton House is a National Historic Site of Canada - one that left us thinking again about competition, rivalry, and balance. 

The two forts were built at the confluence of the Stuegeon and Saskatchewan Rivers.  They were called Fort-des-Prairies by the Métis/French trappers and Amiskwaskahegan (Beaver Hills) by the Cree. Together they formed the western terminus of the Carleton Trail, which was the main overland route for Métis freighters moving cargo east to the Red River Colony (Winnipeg).  From there the furs were shipped by York Boat up the waterways to Hudson's Bay and then on to England.  This spot marked the end of our journey along the historic Carleton Trail, which we began back in Winnipeg in June 2021. 

Then our lovely treed trail ended we had about 3 km of road walking, which was very hot in the blindingly bright afternoon sun.  We cut inland away from the river slightly, losing the cool breeze that was coming off the water.  The road took us past fields, small homes and businesses, and a few stands of trees.   Suddenly and unexpectedly we came to another trail head in the small community of Lamoureux. 

An interpretive sign indicated that we were standing on one of the oldest places along the Athabasca Landing Trail.  This historic trail connected Edmonton to Athabasca Landing in the north, and was once known as the "100 Mile Portage."  The overland route was established by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1876, and it linked the North Saskatchewan River with the Athabasca River.  It was used by fur traders, gold miners, settlers, and others heading to Alberta's north up until 1912, when the railroad came through.  Next year, when we head north towards Tuktoyaktuk, NT we too will follow this historic route. 

The small community of Lamoureux, where we were sitting at the trailhead enjoying another break, was one of the oldest communities on the Athabasca Landing Trail.  It was named after Frank and Joseph Lamoureux, two brothers from Québec.  They arrived in 1872, intending to join the Gold Rush.  However, they saw an opportunity to establish a business selling goods and services to others heading north.  It was a strategic location at the junction of the Victoria and Athabasca Trails, and ultimately they were successful in establishing a thriving community. 

Opposite the rest area was the small, white, Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church.  The original church was built in 1876, but it burned down and was rebuilt in 1903.  The site included a rectory, parish hall, and grotto and it is now a Provincial Historic Site.  It looked like it could use a little TLC. 

From the trail head we followed the Lamoureux Trail, which was a wonder paved bicycle path along the river towards the bridge into Fort Saskatchewan.  The bicycle path was lined with stone cairns marking important historic events (like the Flood of 1915) and places (like the Palace Hotel) in the community of Lamoureux.  

Until this point we had been walking along the northern shore of the North Saskatchewan River.  The Lamoureux Trail brought us to the single bridge that spans the river into Fort Saskatchewan.  The road that crosses this bridge is an extremely busy (and narrow) highway.  We followed the Trans Canada Trail, walking up the long bowtie of the on-ramp for the highway to get up to the bridge, and suddenly realized there was no sidewalk.  Not only that, there were two lanes of traffic (one in either direction), and the concrete barriers on either side of the bridge were right on the white lines.  There was no way to cross that bridge except to walk in the lanes of high speed traffic.  Despite being part of the Trans Canada Trail we immediately realized that there was no safe way possible for us to cross this bridge.

 

 

Once again, as the day drew to a close we were left thinking about balance.  We had a choice to make - to risk our lives and those of the drivers in the cars crossing the bridge, or to break our own rules and take a taxi across. In the end we took a taxi across the bridge, for a distance of 700 m.  I acknowledge that right now there is no other alternative route we could have taken to cross into Fort Saskatchewan, but I seriously question the wisdom of suggesting that some of the roadways, highways and bridges are a safe part of the 'fully connected' Trans Canada Trail, even for cyclists. Today we admit that we have ‘skipped’ 700 metres of the Trans Canada Trail for the sake of safety.  Finding a balance between risk, safety, responsibility, and sustainability is undoubtedly the challenge of our times.

Tonight we have gotten into Fort Saskatchewan a little humbler, with lots to think about, and lots to consider.  Travel challenges you and changes you.  

See you on the trail!

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