“If you build it, they will come” : Fort Saskatchewan to Sherwood Park

Today was an unexpected and completely wonderful treat.  We had an entire day walking on cycling trails, learning more about Canadian history, enjoying beautiful urban parks, walking through fields of wildflowers along the shores of the North Saskatchewan River, and chatting with about a dozen different people who were out on the trails enjoying this beautiful, sunny July Sunday. 

We began this morning by deviating slightly from the Trans Canada Trail and making our way into the historic downtown and Fort Heritage Precinct of Fort Saskatchewan.  The Precinct celebrates three distinct time-periods in the community's history: the North West Mounted Police Fort that was active from 1875-1885, the historical village and Canadian Northern Railway station from 1905 that encapsulate the experiences of the early settlers, and the Warden's Residence from 1937 that showcases Alberta's Provincial Gaol. 

Unfortunately, none of these historical sites are open on Sundays, but we were able to walk around Legacy Park, which is a beautifully landscaped central greenspace, and look at the historic buildings.  We began by investigating the wooden replica of the NWMP Fort, which was mostly hidden behind a wooden palisade.   

 

The Sturgeon Creek Post was established in 1875 as a North West Mounted Police Fort by Inspector William D. Jarvis, who led the column of NWMP during the March West.  The post was soon renamed Fort (on the) Saskatchewan, and it became an important Police garrison. Although there was a petition to move this important post to Edmonton, Jarvis preferred to keep the headquarters at Fort Saskatchewan because he thought it was a better site for a future railway crossing of the river.  The headquarters were moved to Edmonton for a year, but the barracks there were so dilapidated that the officers mutinied in an event known as 'the Big Buck' and Fort Saskatchewan remained where it was. 

In the course of their duties the NWMP arrested many criminals and brought them to the Fort for trial and to serve their sentences.  The guard room was often overfull. For example, in August 1912 the guard room held 71 prisoners in its 34 cells.  In 1913 the NWMP transferred 200 acres of the property to the Alberta government for the construction of a larger provincial jail that could adequately deal with the number of prisoners.  

Beside the Fort stands the Warden's House, which now houses a Tourist Information Centre.  Somehow this stucco house didn't have the feel of a historic building that would go with a fort, especially when we read that it was originally painted peach and red.  Nonetheless, this colourful building was the residence of J.D. McLean, warden of the Fort Saskatchewan Provincial Goal from 1937 to 1973.  

Adjacent to the Fort and the Warden's House is the Fort Saskatchewan Canadian Northern Railway Station, which was built in 1905 and modified in 1911. It is a 1.5 storey wooden building which included a vestibule, kitchen, living room, large general waiting room, separate ladies' waiting room, office, and small freight shed.  The last train passed through Fort Saskatchewan in 1987, and the restored station can now be rented for community events and functions. 

After exploring the historic Fort Heritage Precinct we followed a paved cycling path through the East Gates of the old Fort, and past a circle of educational plaques on the history of the West.  On one side a neighbourhood of large homes and condos stood, and on the other we had an expansive view out over the North Saskatchewan River and the fields and grain elevators beyond.  It was a peaceful spot, marred only by the constant roar of a nearby racetrack. 

A little farther down the trail we passed the cemetery for the provincial gaol, which was filled with graves of unnamed prisoners.  It consisted of two rows of white metal crosses surrounded by a white picket fence.  The graves had been moved to this location from a spot that was farther west originally, and they belonged to the souls who died in prison and went unclaimed by their families or communities. 

After this we followed the trail over the highway on a pedestrian bridge. We had a bird's eye view of the Trans Canada Trail below us on the highway, and couldn't help but feel that there was a lost opportunity in not having the Lamoureux Trail on the north side of the river connect to the lovely cycling trails on the south side in a safe way, especially since a second bridge is currently being constructed beside the first one, and – according to local residents - it won't provide pedestrian or cycling access either. 

From there we followed the paved pathway along a lovely urban greenspace bordered by trees and the river on one side and an interesting upscale neighbourhood of homes on the other side.  There were a lot of people out cycling, jogging, and walking on the beautiful, sunny, morning and several people stopped to ask what we were doing and to wish us well. 

As we followed the Chabot Park Trail past the site where the first railway bridge to Fort Saskatchewan was constructed in 1906, we were stopped by two very friendly ladies on bicycles who asked about our carts and our journey.  It turned out one of them was with the River Valley Alliance, who work with the Trans Canada Trail striving to improve local pathways.  Today they were biking out to a spot farther along the river where there is a proposed pedestrian bridge that would create a link between the trails of Fort Saskatchewan and Edmonton, creating a 120 km stretch of connected cycling paths.  It is always interesting to talk with local trail builders, and we welcomed the opportunity to say thank you for all the hard work. 

A few kilometres after this meeting we passed a Wetland Conservation Area.  A small wooden boardwalk led to a lookout platform over a small pond, and a loop of pathways circled the small wetland.  We spotted a Common Goldeneye, a Canvasback, and a Horned Grebe peacefully floating on the quiet water. Informational signs suggested the small wetland helped control erosion as well as improve water quality. 

Shortly after passing the wetland we came to another pond, next to the West River's Edge Pavilion. We didn't check this out, but it looked like maybe it was possible to rent canoes or kayaks to use in the small pond. In front of the pavilion was a tall bronze statue depicting a skilled trade worker, which was called a 'Big Piece of the Puzzle.'  It was meant to depict how our industrial and technological world is placed in the hands of skilled workers, and to celebrate their accomplishments.  It is an interesting perspective to see industry as part of a bigger puzzle. 

The next stretch of trail took us around a small RV Park and a very large off-leash dog area that was full of very happy looking dogs. As we made our way around the large curve in the trail we were passed by a lot of people on roller skis, as well as a group on seguays, and quite a few walkers, joggers, and cyclists.  It reaffirmed our idea that if you build a good trail, people will come! 

Quite a lot of people stopped to ask what we were doing, and many of them inquired about our wheeled carts, including cyclists, hunters, and fly fishers.  They are Radical Design hiking carts, and so far we are very happy them.  We've done a lot of research, and many long-distance hikers who use strollers or build their own carts seem to encounter problems along the way.  We have never had any breakdowns yet (fingers crossed our luck holds), the design of our carts is highly manoeuvrable, and they easily come apart.  We felt like we could have been walking advertisements for Radical Design, but we were happy to provide the positive feedback. 

We thoroughly enjoyed this section of trail.  There were benches and garbage cans placed along it, and there were small interpretive signs providing information on the plants, trees, birds, and animals that lived along the trail.  Although there wasn't much shade, young trees had been planted along the length of the trail to benefit future generations.  The pathway was bordered by wildflowers, and there was a large collection of beautiful and colourful butterflies flitting about as we traced the North Saskatchewan River southward.

Eventually we came to a break in the paved cycling path, and followed a quiet gravel road for a few hundred meters past private property.  After this brief detour we picked up a crushed stone dust trail that passed through a slightly more wild area. A small pond with a few Lesser Scaups bordered the trail on one side, and a band of trees bordered the North Saskatchewan River on the other.  As we continued on we found ourselves walking between fields of blue-green grains that blew in the wind like waves.  Wildflowers of yellow, white, and purple bordered the trail, their sweet scent blending with the tangy, rejuvenating smell of sage. 

We stopped at a bench in the shade of the riverside trees, and then continued on, enjoying the view out over the water.  A small group of American White Pelicans sat on a sandbar out in the river.  A large group of Franklin's Gulls swirled above the water, mixing with Tree Swallows and Bank Swallows. A deliciously cool breeze blew in off the water. 

It was with a bit of sadness that we finally left the riverside trail that had been winding along beside the river.  We followed a straight gravel track passed several drainage ponds in a large open greenspace, until it joined up with a paved road at the trail head.  We assumed that we were due to move onto local concessions, however to our absolute delight we discovered that the two-lane cycling trail continued on beside the road!  We happily followed it as it passed by the Legends Golf and Country Club which was very busy, despite the wind. 

 

 

 

 

We climbed a hill and found ourselves paralleling the road through countryside that was planted with row crops.  There were still benches along the trail, and signage indicating the distance left to Sherwood Park.  It was a lovely cycling trail, and we were passed by quite a few cyclists. 

Eventually the trail led us through a large industrial park.  Although our surroundings weren't too aesthetically pleasing we were still on the cycling path, and the small storm water ponds located among the businesses and parking lots were home to a variety of different birds, including American Coots, Horned Grebes, and Lesser Scaups.  It seemed such an unlikely spot to bird! 

After crossing the highway we wove through some modern subdivisions of large homes and began to encounter strip malls with all the usual suspects of box stores in Canada.  There is no camping in Sherwood Park, so we were headed for a hotel, which offered the luxuries of laundry and showers. On the way, a highlight was passing Centennial Park.  A baseball game was in progress, which involved much cheering and merriment.  A small pond adjacent to the ball diamond housed a collection of waterfowl, including American Coots, Horned Grebes, and surprisingly, a Double-Crested Cormorant!

It looked so out of place to us, but it was the perfect ending to a wonderful day of trail walking and talking to locals!

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online