Urban Exploration and Nature : Blackfalds to Red Deer

The morning was deliciously cool as we set out under a dynamic sky in which the sun was struggling to break through layers of puffy white clouds.  We followed the paved and wonderfully well marked cycling trail to the edge of town, where we boxed around All Star Park, a huge open green-space with RV camping and four baseball diamonds.  It was also home to the Wadey Visitor Information Centre, which is an historic T. Eaton house built in 1916 by an early settler named George Wadey. 

There were a couple historic displays around the Wadey House, including a very colourful tile mosaic representing a prairie quilt, and a large mural depicting the Stephenson Livery Stable.  Frank Stephenson was born in Iowa in 1872, and came to Alberta in a covered wagon with his family in 1895.  In 1903 Frank and his brother opened a livery in Blackfalds, which at the time was an essential community service.  Everyone arriving in town would have needed to feed, water, and board their horse, or rent one.  The livery stored buggies and wagons, provided stalls and hay for horses, as well a blacksmith services.  The livery was also where travellers would stop to learn about local accommodations, food, land offices, homesteads, and other information. 

After leaving Wadey Park the trail ran parallel to the road, passing a large horse farm with a very active and vocal group of ground squirrels.  We were surrounded by rolling grassy hills in which lone trees stood watch under a beautiful sky.  There was a lot of chipping from sparrow fledglings in the tall grasses, and a large Red-tailed Hawk gave a loud scream as it landed on a tall metal communication tower beside the road. 

Soon we arrived at the Blindman River Pedestrian Bridge.  This beautiful curving wooden bridge with turquoise railings was built in a single weekend by the 41st Combat Engineer Regiment (33rd Engineer Squadron from Calgary and the 25th Engineer Squadron from Edmonton).  It provides an important link in the Trans Canada Trail, and in the regional trail system, which connects communities and promotes an active and healthy lifestyle.  

 

There are two theories as to where the meandering, chocolate brown river got its name.  One suggests that a Cree hunting party became snowbound and had to rest on its banks until their sight returned.  They called the river pas-ka-poo, which translates as 'blind man.'  The other theory suggests that the name is a descriptive term, referring to all the meanders and curves in the waterway that create blind corners. 

After crossing the river we followed a very quiet paved road that wound through a  forested neighbourhood.  Large homes were set back on spacious properties, and there was a forest of signs at every driveway warning that each home, outbuilding, and small business was protected by video surveillance.  We've noticed a lot of deterrence measures in place in Alberta, where rural crime is evidently a concern. 

We crossed another short stretch of beautiful rolling hills, where fields of bright yellow canola glowed under a dynamic sky of blue and white.  Before we knew it we were making a slightly awkward highway crossing, and then following another wide, paved cycling trail that ran along the side of a busy, paved road into the city of Red Deer.

After stopping under a tree in a small plaza for a short break and a cold iced coffee, we followed he cycling path beside the road for about an hour, mostly traversing wide open grassy verges that separated the road from neighbourhoods on either side.  Along the way we passed several electric scooters standing at random spots along the trail.  They could be rented for just a dollar, and it seems to be a new pilot program in Red Deer. We saw several people using them over the course of the day, so it must be at least partially successful. 

Red Deer is a large city of just over 100,000 people, which is why it took us nearly an hour to walk to the Red Deer River, which bisected the city.  It is located half way between Edmonton and Calgary, and its key industries include health care, retail trade, construction, oil and gas, hospitality, manufacturing, and education.  

Historically, the area along the river was inhabited by First Nations, including Blackfoot, Plains Cree, and Nakoda.  In the 18th century European fur traders arrived in the area.  At that point a First Nations Trail had already been established in the area, linking the Montana Territory across the Bow River near present-day Calgary to Fort Edmonton. This later became known as the Calgary and Edmonton Trail, and it crossed the Red Deer River at the wide, stony shallows called "the Old Red Deer Crossing," which is just 7 km upstream from the current city of Red Deer.  

Cree people called the river 'Waskasoo Seepee', which means 'Elk River.'  Europeans sometimes referred to North American Elk as 'red deer' after the Eurasian species, which I can only assume was reddish in colour, and so they named the community 'Red Deer.' 

Much like in Edmonton, the city of Red Deer has preserved a corridor of publicly accessible green spaces along the shores of the Red Deer River, and the Trans Canada Trail makes several loops through the parks and green spaces that line both sides of the river.  When we reached the Red Deer River we turned into Bower Ponds Park.  This park was opened in 1980, and has become a central part of the city.  It offers gardens, an outdoor theatre, paddle boating in summer and skating in winter, and an opportunity to visit the historic Cronquist House.  In addition to a range of different activities, various festivals and special events are also held in the park throughout the year. 

 

 

We followed the paved cycling path across grassy lawns and under mature trees to the edge of the ponds.  Several Common Goldeneyes were floating out in the still waters, their heads tucked beneath their wings as they dozed.  A small group of Canada Geese grazed quietly on the lush green grass of the shore.  Two swallow fledglings were sitting on the roof of their nest box, begging with mouths wide open. As we watched an adult delivered a large load of insects to one of them, stuffing the meal well down into its throat without even landing! 

We continued on, passing a beautiful pollinator garden, complete with a creatively designed wooden insect hotel, a patch of colourful flowers, and interpretive panels explaining the importance of supporting the insects, birds, and other wildlife that perform the important role of pollinators.

As we made our way around the pond we stopped to read some of the many information plaques.  Apparently in 1906 the park was occupied by the Great West Lumber Company.  The mill harvested timbers from the foothills, employing over 400 people and producing essential resources for settlers, homesteaders, and other early industries. 

In 1900 the Reinholt Quarry stood on the shore of the river opposite the park.  Blocks of grey sandstone were quarried from the riverbank using picks and shovels. They would dry upon exposure to the air, giving homesteaders and settlers an alternative material for use in the foundations of their buildings.  Samples of this sandstone can still be seen in St. Luke's Anglican Church downtown, which is the city's oldest standing church. 

As we rounded the pond we came to a Trans Canada Trail Pavilion. It still bore the 'Great Trail' logo and name, but it provided some interesting historical information about the development of the trail from a immigration route used by the First Peoples coming from Eurasia, to a fur trade route used in the 18th and early 19th centuries to connect the bison-rich areas to the south with forts along the North Saskatchewan River, to a trail known as the Blackfoot or Wolf Trail, to the Calgary and Edmonton Trail. 

We continued around the lake to the large wooden pavilion where quite a few people were renting paddle-boats.  The outdoor patio provided a wonderful view of the pond with its arching wooden pedestrian bridge and picturesque fountain. We stopped for a break and to enjoy an ice cream while enjoying the view. 

 

 

Just beside the pavilion we found the historic Cronquist House.  The Queen Anne Revival style farmhouse was built in 1911 for Emmanuel Petterson Cronquist and his family after they immigrated to Alberta from Sweden.  In 1976, in order to prevent the farmhouse from being destroyed, the Red Deer Cultural Heritage Society had it moved to the park. 

After our visit to Bower Park we followed the trail along the river, winding through several greenspaces and parks as we went.  Benches, garbage cans, interpretive and distance signage, and various sculptures and works of art were located along the length of the pathway, and there were plenty of shade trees along the way.  It was a very pleasant walk, and we were stopped by several cyclists who asked about our walk and our hiking carts. 

A particular highlight for us was making a stop at the Kerry Wood Nature Centre.  This is the interpretive centre for the Waskasoo Park system, and it sits at the gateway to the Gaetz Lakes Sanctuary.  The centre was named after Edgar Allardyce "Kerry" Wood, who came to Red Deer from New York in 1918.  He spent his free time wandering through the Gaetz Lakes Sanctuary, looking at the wildlife he encountered.  Librarians, First Nations Peoples, and members of the Alberta Natural History Society helped him learn about the animals and plants he found in the area.  He eventually became a writer, producing 6,200 short stories, 8,000 articles, 9,000 newspaper articles, and hundreds of radio and television programs.  

Since 1924 Gaetz Lakes have been protected as a migratory bird sanctuary.  The 118 hectare park features two oxbow lakes separated by Boreal forest, 5 km of trails that encircle the lakes, a boardwalk, and  bird viewing platform on the edge of the lakes.  Together, the Kerry Wood Nature Centre and Gaetz Lakes Sanctuary provide Alberta with year-around opportunities for environmental education.  They offer hands-on natural history interpretation, interactive exhibits, and a small shop with books on natural history and other gifts for nature lovers.  

The staff at the nature centre very kindly agreed to let us leave our hiking carts behind their counter while we explored the nature sanctuary.  We followed the 4 km crushed stone dust Wishart Trail through a meadow of wildflowers, and most of the way around the two oxbow lakes.  Damage to the trail from recent storms have closed the trail, so we had to turn back about half way around. 

As we walked through the sweet-smelling meadow of flowers, a cloud of dragonflies and damselflies danced around us in a delicate and colourful cloud.  There were also many colourful butterflies and moths, including quite a few black and moths that are apparently called 'place car moths.'  

When we reached the first lake we spotted a small group of Common Goldeneyes floating on the smooth surface, along with several Red-necked Grebes, and a family of American Coots.  A group of Mallards was napping out on the beaver lodge in the middle.  

Continuing around the lake, and beginning to climb surprisingly high up into a small patch of Boreal, we spotted families of Cedar Waxwings, Savannah Sparrows, Song Sparrows, American Goldfinches, Black-capped Chickadees, and American Robins.  Down below we could see and hear many pairs of Red-winged Blackbirds feeding their young.  

The sanctuary was a wonderful place to visit, but the afternoon was wearing on, and we had to get back to the centre to fetch our carts before they closed.  We reluctantly returned, thanked the fantastic staff for their help, and continued on along the trail.  We walked for another hour, winding through quiet neighbourhoods and along the river. 

We noticed quite a few homeless people living along the waterway in one stretch, and when we stopped to chat with other trail users in this section they asked if we'd had trouble with the homeless, and confessed that they had mistaken us for homeless at first.  These questions always sadden us, because so far we've never been met with anything but kindness and generosity from homeless people, who I think also assume we are homeless. It is a reminder that we would do better if took the time to know and understand each better rather than simply being nervous of what we don't know. 

While we have attempted to 'thread the needle' planning our trek across Alberta to put us through Edmonton before the Pope's visit, and after the Calgary Stampede we failed to check for local events and so were caught by the Westerner Fair and Expedition in the region this week. As a result the campgrounds were all booked this weekend, but we were able to find a motel room.  As we reached it the sun was low and hot, and the daily afternoon thunderstorm was brewing.  It was a long day, filled with history, art, and nature, and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring Red Deer from the Trans Canada Trail. 

Capping off the day, this evening we were taken out and treated to dinner by a local follower of our #Hike4Birds.  When we arrived at the restaurant I was assured that vegetarian substitutions were no problem, the result however was almost hilarious when instead of a steak I was brought a half a head of lettuce as my 'substitution'.  The waiter's suggestion being that I use it as a wrap for the meal's rice and salad.  A truly new and memorable experience for me during a wonderful night out.  

See you on the trail!

Remember to follow our entire adventure here : www.comewalkwithus.online