Back in the Fastlane, Back on HWY 2A : Red Deer to Innisfail

It was a wonderfully cool morning when we made our way back to the Trans Canada Trail this morning.  The sun was shining, but for the first few kilometres the trail was bordered by trees that cast long shadows on the dew soaked grass.  Several cyclists were already out, as well as a couple people on electric scooters.  We could hear the songs of White-throated Sparrows, a Song Sparrow, and a Gray Catbird as we trekked along beside the river, trying to make those peaceful moments in the sheltered urban parks last as long as possible.

As we approached the edge of town we emerged onto a busy road and the facility where the Westerner Days Fair and Exhibition was being held.  This five day event begins with a parade through the streets of Red Deer that is typically watched by over 30,000 viewers, and features decorated floats, collector vehicles, local celebrities, marching bands, and livestock entries.  The fair then offers live entertainment, midway rides, free entertainment, nightly pony chuck-wagon races, and livestock and equipment exhibitions.  This year it was taking place from July 20 - 24, so the grounds and the town (including all the campgrounds and motels) were fully booked, and the fair grounds were full of RVs.  Much excitement! 

After passing the fair grounds we wove under the incredibly busy and fast-moving QE II highway, and turned onto the almost equally busy highway 2A.  It was a hectic transfer, without the benefit of crosswalks, lights, sidewalks or much of a shoulder, and despite it being Saturday it felt like rush-hour.  We were happy to make it through unscathed.   

Just as we cleared the underpass we were passed by a Freedom Canada Convoy.  This was part of dozens of 'slow-roll' vehicle convoys that entered cities across Canada today.  Apparently the protest was being done to support Dutch farmers, who are facing new regulations aimed at reducing nitrogen oxide and ammonia emissions by 50% by 2030, which they believe will decimate the agricultural industry.  Similar regulations are being considered in Canada. From our very vulnerable feeling position on the edge of the highway the convoy didn't seem to be moving too slowly at all, and the constant blasting of horns and racing of flag draped trucks along the highways were nearly deafening. 

The first 11 km from Red Deer to Penhold were unpleasant to walk.  The traffic was pretty much non-stop and travelling at extremely high speeds.  There were a lot of livestock trailers and family groups, suggesting many people were heading to the fair.  There were also a lot of pickup trucks with huge tires and modified tailpipes, and quite a few of the drivers rev'd their engines and accelerated as they passed us, stomping on the gas to backfire and leave us in a cloud of oily black exhaust.Perhaps the most terrifying moment came when two trucks passed a car driving towards us - one passed correctly on the left pulling into the other lane of the highway, while the other deciding to race pulled right onto the shoulder and sped directly at us.  The end result was us pushing the carts and ourselves quickly into the ditch.  

 

Despite the unpleasant walking conditions the surrounding countryside was very beautiful.  We could see hills rising up in the distance to the east of us, creating layers of  landscape.  Rolling hills covered by lush green pastures and fields of grain stretched out on either side of us, with occasional patches of yellow canola as accents. 

A highlight from this section of trail was passing a small pond in one of the fields that was full of birds.  We spotted a group of at least half dozen White-faced Ibis, as well as Killdeer, a large number of Greater Yellowlegs, and possibly a Willet as well. The cattails were full of Red-winged Blackbirds, and an Eastern Kingbird perched on the fence. There was so much life in this small patch of water it was amazing! 

There was an active train line running parallel to us on the far side of the road.  As we were passing the tiny community of Springbrook, which is home to the Penhold Air Cadet Summer Training Centre, a very long train passed by us.  It was the first of many today, and we noticed that all the trains heading south had two engines in front, one in the middle, and one at the end - yet another sign that the Rocky Mountains lie just ahead! 

We reached Penhold in record time - having walked over 11 km in about an hour and a half.  Today was about moving quick and staying alive.  We stopped at the edge of town to get a cold drink at Tim Hortons, and to take a break from the exhaust fumes and the constant roar of the traffic.  While we were standing outside in the shade a man came up and chatted to us about our walk and the hiking carts, before wishing us well.  We greatly appreciated the kindness and encouragement.  

The trail diverted off the highway into the town of Penhold, following a very quiet street bordered on one side by a neighbourhood of small homes and on the other by a large grain storage depot.  Penhold was originally one of the whistle stops along the Canadian Pacific Railway, and it was incorporated as a village in 1909.  It experienced considerable population growth in the 1970's and became a town, and today it has a population of around 3,500 people.  It felt like a very quiet and peaceful spot to live as we passed through. 

After Penhold there was much less traffic on the highway, and it became considerably less frightening to walk along its wide, paved, and flat shoulder.  Unfortunately the brief turn onto concession roads that the TCT was routed to take was blocked due to 'ongoing road construction' in the region.  As a result we had to stay on HWY 2a for the duration of the day.  The surrounding landscape was incredibly beautiful here as well.  The road and train tracks curved elegantly on into the distance ahead of us.  

Rolling fields on both sides of us were bisected by the straight lines of wire fences. Herds of black angus cattle and dark brown horses dotted the pastures, and in one section we passed a huge colony of Richardson's ground squirrels, their shrill high-pitched cries echoing around us. 

We kept up a pretty fast throughout the afternoon, appreciating the cooling breeze and relatively pleasant temperatures as we wove through the rolling countryside. Although it was pleasant going, at a walking pace the landscape was slow to change, and we began looking at the cloud formations, imagining what they represented.  One of my favourites looked like a giant hand (admittedly missing a finger) that was outstretched to catch a ball. 

As we neared the outskirts of Innisfail we spotted an enormous immature Bald Eagle perched in a small dead tree at the edge of a field.  Our next wildlife sighting was even more unexpected and strange - a camel!  We spotted the large ungulate standing on a hill and were momentarily confused, until we realized we were passing the Discovery Wildlife Park and Campground.  

This centre provides homes for orphaned or retired zoo animals including monkeys, bears, lions, wolves, raccoons, and cougars, and it is open to visitors throughout the summer months. 

Shortly after passing the Discovery Park we walked into the town of Innisfail, our destination for the night.  The town's name comes from an Irish-language epithet for Ireland, 'Inis Fail' which means 'Isle of Destiny.'  Before it received this name, it was referred to as 'Poplar Grove.'  I am uncertain why the shift occurred. 

Innisfail was settled around 1884 to 1887.   One of the first settlers, a physician and coroner named Dr. Henry George, built a house called 'Lindum Lodge.'  It has been preserved and can still be visited today.  The town grew slowly until the railway arrived.  By 1900, Innisfail had become a village, and a colourful mural on a downtown building depicts what it might have looked like in 1909. 

We walked the charming downtown street with its colourful hanging flower baskets, small trees, and collection of boutique stores, restaurants, and cafés, and small businesses.  It struck us that like many prairie towns it almost had two faces - one that was oriented towards the railway, and another that faced the highway.  The older part along the railway had more of a local flavour, whereas the part along the highway contained most of the larger, busier, box stores and fast food chains.  

It was a relief to have survived another day of walking along the highway, literally only inches away from the fast lane.  Tomorrow we head back out for another stretch of highway walking. Hopefully it will go as smoothly as today did!

See you on the trail!

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